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Sancho Marino

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Everything posted by Sancho Marino

  1. So I changed my mind on the pickups and bridge ... got a new pair of Evo's and a Hipshot bridge for this one. I'm going to save the BKP's for my next build, a flame top LP.... I always wanted to try out some Evo's in Mahogany and I think the Zebra's will fit the woods better :mrgreen: Going to try to make a place to park the BKP's in with this... http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s454/ZR20091/J%20Custom%20Build/006_zps393432d2.jpg[/img
  2. I appreciate the video, but I wasn't trying to copy something else I'd seen before. I was just going for something different than the norm...
  3. I really like the grain in that first guitar man...very cool... It is a really heavy wood I had take out a lot of wood for weight relief on that back. At first I thought the board was still wet or something, but it was at 8%. Just a dense heavy wood...
  4. Been there.I have two guitars with Bubinga bodies,and one is a carved top.Sanding nightmare,but the finished product is always nice Yeah it is a beautiful wood when finished up... The 2nd guitar I built has a one piece Bubinga back, the sanding was a little rough... The great thing about it is it doesn't rip very easily when you're routing it though...
  5. You guys are killing me! I might take some off the top of it to flatten it out a little bit, but I do like the look of it as is. The pictures make it look a lot bigger than it really is... It's also a really comfortable fit in my hand, so the snake head stays!!!! Now on to radiusing the board.... sanding Bubinga is usually fun... I have a pair of BKP Miracle Man raw nickle covered pickups and black Hipshot locking tuners on the way, and I think I'm going with a black Schaller TOM roller bridge string through setup as well... Looked at the Hannes bridge...maybe on the next one...
  6. Congrats on the GOTM win Scott... well deserved!
  7. Sleepers are what got me into modding and eventually building my own guitars from scratch... I started out with old MIJ RG 470's you used to be able to pick up for less than $200. The late 90's MIJ Wizard II's are some of my all-time favorite necks with a little work
  8. Really like your work man... It's very clean and precise looking. That flamed maple strat neck looks stunning too
  9. Back to work this week so it's been slow going on the projects... I got the volute carved out and the neck sanded down to its final shape today. Looks a little better now, but I think I'm going to put the points back on the bottom of the headstock tomorrow...
  10. I don't really see why some guys get so worked up about custom builders using CNC machines. Seriously why does it matter how the body gets it's shape roughed in as long as the final product is a quality build. It sure as hell doesn't matter to the wood... BTW Sam is a lucky dude... that's a sharp axe!
  11. Thanks Wes, I see.... I haven't worked with any veneers yet. This is only my second top, but both of them are 1/2" thick. The fretboards I used were my first go at resawing with my new Woodslicer blade and I made them a little too thick so that could be why I haven't had any issues yet. How's the epoxy as far as removal goes? I noticed you said you were using them on frets. Does it loosen up with heat if you need to refret?
  12. Thanks, I appreciate all the glue talk guys it's very helpful. I always do all my gluing (and keep the glue) inside the house so it's always at room temp. I also read that it can go bad so I buy the smaller bottles of it when I know I'm going to be starting something. I really like the glue joints I've been getting with Titebond so I don't think I'll change that up at all, other than using Titebond I, plus it's always readily available to me. I haven't had any problems with wood curling or anything like. Are there specific woods that are affected more so than others? I haven't made anymore progress other than reducing the fretboard thickness by about 4mm. I'm trying to get the neck down to the chunkier Jem Dimensions and I've gone as far as I'm comfortable going with the back of the neck...
  13. My son wanted me to turn one of his old skateboard decks in to a guitar... I told him he was nuts. I better not show him this It looks light and ergonomic too!
  14. What's funny is I originally bought Titebond I, but everyone I talked to told me to use II... I will definitely follow your advice on this and I appreciate the help. With as many pieces of wood as that neck is made out of I may end up having a real problem with it eventually... BTW I'm a huge fan of using as many clamps as you can fit on a joint... I always think I need more though
  15. I have some Titebond I, what's wrong with Titebond II? Nothing if you are building an ark! Titebond II is water proof and because of whatever they do to it to make it waterproof it never really hardens. Soft glue does not transfer vibrations very well and is prone to creep. Read visible glue lines during seasonal changes. Oh that's not cool... I guess I'll be switching to the Titebond I then. Thanks for the heads up man!
  16. Ah... in the second pic it looks like the two outside holes are offset equally... looks ok in the pic anyway
  17. That's already been taken care of, right now it's 43mm at the nut and 56mm at the 24th fret... I know I should have doubled up on the socks. When I went to get my boots from the basement I found a mouse had been using one of them rent free I have some Titebond I, what's wrong with Titebond II?
  18. Yeah it's good stuff Wes. I used to get the SprayMax 2k clear from the same place, but noticed they had their own brand of it a little cheaper. It seems to be the same exact product looking at the can and the way it mixes the two parts together is the same, but the Eastwood version seems easier to lay down without orange peel. I haven't tried any of the 2k colors or primer yet..
  19. Branding your logo is a cool idea, saves having decals made or hours of inlay work and it still looks awesome... "Sinister Goat" is a cool name man, I used to use SinisterDBK as a nic in a few forums, guess I won't be using it on my guitars
  20. Thanks. I'm pretty happy with the way it's shaping up. It's the first time I've attempted so many pieces in a neck...
  21. Looks like you covered for your mistake well... Almost looks like you planned it that way!
  22. I agree with you Wes, I have more work to do on the headstock/volute. My feet were getting cold out in the garage so I had to quit for the day
  23. Ah good I already have the 2K... Got some shaping done on the neck today... turning out good I think... I'm not sure if I'm going to leave the headstock shape like that, but it's kind of growing on me. I had to reduce the size a little since it's going to be 6 instead of 7 so I just rounded off the points... What do you guys think?
  24. Sounds like a cool idea for the kids! As far as clear goes this stuff is a little pricy at $20 a can, but one can will cover clearing a whole guitar AND it cures rock hard in about 3 days. I've used it over top of all kinds of paints like Humbrol and One Shot doing swirls, and water based dyes and it hasn't reacted adversely with anything. Best clear for your app IMO... Good luck! http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aero-spray-high-gloss-clear.html
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