mistermikev

I'm guessing with a panner... you are going to have issues with the center not being a full vol mix of either pickup... but if that still works for ya... then yeah.

thanks sir. wish I'd have done it sooner!

I would look into diy optical wah simply because it would be more difficult to work out w a mechanical pot, let alone the physical limitations. In theory if you can setup an optical wah, you can setup an optical vol... and from there it would seem like setting up two leds/ldrs would be pretty doable. Have no experience doing this other than various circuits that use led/ldr. Have seen some threads with an led/ldr seperated by a thin piece of metal that tapers... as the pedal is lifted the obstruction between the led/ldr is lifted and resistance is altered. Other than that... I don't know much about it... but just thought perhaps a keyword would push you in the right direction.

so a while back I bought a craftsman 13" planer from craigslist. It ran very loud and in fact terrifying, so had considered just replacing it instead of pouring money into new blades... as it doesn't have a chip port anyway... but the other day I decided I'd take a $50 risk and ordered some HSS V2 blades from globaltooling. Had to do some work to break the screws free (wd40 and sit for 20mins then one or two broke free so repeated several times and finally got all 12 out). Cleaned the machine up really good and oiled the raise/lower mechanism. Got the new blades in and ran some flamed maple thru it - was like a revelation. Very quite and smooth to the point it startled me that I wasn't hearing a lot. wetted down my flamed maple and made a few light passes and they came out the other end with zero tear-out and zero snipe despite being 5' long. Just wanted to share my experience on the off chance that someone else is in the same place afa thinking about buying new or contemplating replacing blades. World of difference.

cool build!

pretty sure all the stuff from china uses 5140 steel... that's how they keep the price down (hehe). if the inserts are replaceable that's def a step in the right direction (In my friends case they weren't, but this was a while ago)... but at that point you start questioning the threads that hold that nut in. if that insert starts to wobble... your guitar will explode at high speeds! further the threads on the posts/studs, the threads on the screws holding the string blocks, etc. my exerpience w china is that they are anything but precision afa threads are concerned. their metal in general isn't great ime, but I have had some positive experiences too so... ymmv.

I'd steer you towards gotoh. I'm told that suhr prefers them to new floyds. I have an orig floyd (1980ish) and it's solid as a rock, but I'm told the new ones tend to have burrs altho once massaged are good. schaller anything is always a safe bet. the chinese floyds... I'd avoid. You can find all sorts of horror stories for them online. the biggest problem with inexpensive 2 point floaters is the metal where the studs meet the baseplate. that needs to remain sharp or it will stop returning to pitch correctly. had a friend with that issue, but have never owned one myself. just 2 cents.

so mojotone then? right on. have oft considered getting into one of their kits or similar... but I'm an airhead so keeping one hand in my pocket seems unlikely. well... 80's... we must be about the sm age. yup... def scooped mids on that one, def something to envy if yer stuck using a crate solid state w dod thrash master for all your tones (good times). I agree... the chorus on those is really delightful. takes me back!

must be a lead mosfet 100 then? I really kind of like those. miles ahead of the valvestate imo. have built a pedal based on that amp and it really screams... going into a tube amp that is! haha! well... the princeton chorus does do two things pretty good: clean chorus, and a sort of oversat lead chorus. not very versatile... but those two things would be worth the price of admission. that said... long live the tube!

nice clean builds. like the dark wood choice. I really like that you did an s1 w 4 way - cudos for getting interesting w the wiring. am gonna have to ding you a point for having what appears to be a valvestate (hehe). look fwd to seeing more of your work. cheers

thank you for that!

true dat. I suspect that doing this with a relay would probably more akin to a bulldozer... but true dat.

wow, yer fret work is really nice. do tell your process when able. neck looks amazing but from you I kind of just assumed it would be.

not sure if you misunderstood... but you'd have a flip flop and a single line going out to a stomp switch... stepping on the stomp outside the guitar would flip the pickups inside the guitar. 2 trannies, 8 resistors and 4 caps. not exactly brain surgery but sure, more complicated than mechanical.

well, follow your heart but yeah... if you aren't replacing the wiring I'd just tuck it inside. You will want to seal it to prevent dust and such from getting in there, and if you wet sand def don't want water getting on it... but if you put it in a zip lock (as much as possible) and tape up the open end... s/b fine. looks like you did what you needed to do so... right on.

yeah, what he said

It can sure be done... but you may or may not introduce noise depending on the cable you use (you are effectively doubling the signal you are passing outside the guitar). folks do it. you'd simply wire it up inside a box like it was inside the guitar - two spst stomp switches would allow you to turn on one or the other or both. You could also consider passing the signal on a stereo cable... might be less cumbersome. an alternative would be a flip flop circuit inside the guitar. this would require the sm number of wires but would not pass more than 1 signal outside the guitar. there are lots of schematics on the web for the boss flip flop that they use to turn on/off an effect. sm idea. it just uses a momentary to send a signal back to trigger the path. downside being it requires a battery.

shouldn't need to cut the jack wires as if you unscrew it it will pull right thru the hole. If you aren't replacing all the wire I'd just put the pots and such in a bag and tape up. less work later... but follow your own path on this.

not sure I've seen such an elaborate truss rod cover. I assume pushing down on the front is how you pop it off?

the blue wire splits into ground and white. the red wire splits into ground and white. you want to cut where the white meets a connection on the three way, and where the ground meets the back of the pot. do this for red, then do this for blue. does that make sense?

I'm not good with words... or numbers... speaking... bathing... these things are all complicated to me. I'm a simple man.

I am thoroughly vetted!

i hear ya... why is it that I always manage to scrape or ding a guitar AFTER sanding everything. hence the tape... but I know in my soul it's just a matter of time!

I wouldn't be opposed to trying them or anything, one of these days.

it is certainly well more than $200 worth of beauty.