mistermikev

I'm using photoshop primarily which is not a draft solution but is known to be pretty accurate. I have scaled up pictures of a fretboard and found them to be very accurate to scale of pdfs of actual dimension so pretty sure photoshop isn't the issue, and I doubt there is an issue with the hp driver for the printer but you never know. printing to actual size w/o any scaling. Beginning to suspect it is actually an issue with paper movement thru the printer because it isn't a consistent issue. it may have something to do with the fact that I often run pnp blue and clear inkjet taped to A4 paper. I've put a lot of tape thru either printer and there could be a little sticky spot that grabs from time to time. Today I did a bunch of prints of carve templates and didn't have 1 issue. Perhaps I just had a bad batch of paper too... humidity can curl it a bit and perhaps that's what happened.

congratulations on a well deserved and hard fought win! truly spectacular build!

looks like it's getting refined - nice work. the headstock looks a bit salvador dali (not being critical -I think it looks cool). looking fwd to seeing how the actual process goes. I would like to suggest that you don't post pics on photobucket as they have a long history of all of the sudden deleting your entire album (ask me how I know). You can upload stuff to projgtr and it's very user friendly, but at the least, instead of making links... just enter the url in text and hit enter right after it... it will show the pic instead of having to click a link and go there. Maybe it's just me but I prefer not to click on links. Looking forward to your progress.

it's a good guess but not the case here. my lines come out very sharp and not jagged. It's more of a precision issue. when I line up my hash marks perfect... the outter edge will still be about 1/16 wider or shorter. thanks for the reply

in case anyone find themselves in a similar need... was looking around and found this: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/lynx-2pc-concave-cabinet-scraper-set?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6OrahbCh5gIVl9hkCh0x0QxFEAQYAyABEgL1tPD_BwE just what the doc ordered. My plan - to try to do this is to do up a photoshop drawing with 22.5/45/67.5 facets. trace around the outline in the approx intersects from that drawing... use a belt-sander followed by shinto rasp to do the facets... then trace around with this cabinet scraper. thank y'all again for your input.

To be clear: the event I'm talking about was not a 1" roundover bit.. it was a 1/2". This was on my strat I did a while back. probably just over 1.375" at the edge. I've run that sm size bit through solid surface on a flat edge... but a radius edge is scary and not advisable - hence this thread. Above I was talking about a similar effect with 1" roundover for a future build, but referring back to that experience with a 1/2. the future build would probably require more like a .75, but even with a variable speed router mounted to a table or overhead jig... I don't think I'd be able to summon the courage to turn that on! On that note, I'm not sure table routers are safer than hand held. It's a false sense of security IMO because the piece can damage you worse than a bit. (I'm sure you know) a table router can throw a big heavy piece of wood at life threatening speeds, and you typically don't have the same kind of grip of it. I suspect you probably meant running it with a fence and a featherboard type situation cause I know you know what yer doin', just didn't want to leave anyone reading this thinking that is something they wanna try! the most viable option at this point seems to me to be a scraper with a .75-1" radius. Now... how to get one.

crap I'm all out of likes for the day or you'd def get one there... the bit in question was a brand new whiteside 1/2" roundover... but I was using it on a heavily quilted top. I was only taking off about 1/8" per pass. had it sitting up on a flat board clamped to the radius... but going out over the horn there wasn't much contact area and I'm guessing I tipped it just a hair. I knew it was a bad idea when I did it and will take care not to even attempt anything close to that again... that's how folks get hurt. fortunately I had both hands on the router and was half expecting something so I didn't really flinch... but I recognize it for what it was - not something to repeat. all that said.. was just thinking I need to sharpen one or two of my bits. can you send me a link to what you got? I realize it's over seas but I'd like to take a look and will snag something similar in the near future.

good call on the neck profile feeler. I'm sure I would be fine... just seems like sort of a potentially dangerous way to do it and would love to find an easy alternative but I suspect there probably isn't one. thank you both for the replies!

if I go that route... I will more than likely ask about a thousand more questions when I get there... but I appreciate the info. well, the chamfer would get me closer... yes, and thank you for the suggestion, but I'm quite hesitant to want to run a router on top of a radius surface. There isn't as much of the base making contact with the surface so it's precarious at best... esp for running big bits. Perhaps I should consider trying to build a variation on the binding router. It just scares me because as you push the body into a big bit... it it decides it wants to pull it in or push it out quickly... and you've got your hands holding it... trouble. thank you both!

probably couldn't hurt. right now I'm leaning towards either finding the perfect cabinet scraper, or learning how to make one.

so just daydreaming here about a future build, hope you will humor me. I want to do something kind of similar to a spector ns2. The top and back on that is radius'd. It also has a large roundover that appears to me to be a hair bigger than 1/2". Doing a roundover with a router on something that is already radius'd, esp with a 1/2" roundover bit... it s a bit hairy... esp on figured wood. I did this on my strat job by placing a flat 3/4" board on top... and hanging the 1/2" roundover low and off the edge quite a bit. I did have a small choke in my router that is always scary and it took a little divot out of the figured top. I'm sure if I had to I could simply to small cuts and gradually get down to the half mark, but this type of round-over doesn't follow the profile well anyway. I have a jig for following the profile for doing binding, but I don't think I'd want to try that with a 1/2" bit on a bigger router... anyway 1/2" isn't big enough. Could build a table... but even that isn't going to follow the profile well. So I think I'd have to do this manually... but how to be consistent? Was thinking I might look around for scrapers that happen to feature a 3/4" or larger rounded area? I guess I could build the profile into a small piece of wood and just check the profile here and there to try to maintain consistency. how would you accomplish 1" roundover on top/bottom of a fully radius'd body?

def do a vid if you do that!

right on... I ramble to... so it could be MY language barrier! I've thought of this... the paper not being aligned. I tried to put it in there very tight. You may be on to something with the heat because it freq comes out with the edges bent from the heat. Also, the paper stock may contribute as I don't use 14" that much so it's old. I'm def going to try the inkjet and perhaps get some thicker paper stock just see if that makes a dif. thank you all for your responses - I do appreciate.

well, not saying there's not better ways, and measuring works but it'd make it easier. I'm putting a fancy fretboard end on and I when I've bought pre slotted in the past I had the 23rd fret slot right where I didn't want it. I want that end to stick out just so from the edge of the neck wood to give me no more room than I need to do a truss access under it and not be seen as much as possible. on the other end - the headstock. the way I like to do gibson style nut is to have exactly the width of the nut sitting right up tight to the 14/17deg angle and then when I put an 1/8" overlay I push it into the nut to secure it in place. if that nut isn't exactly on the angle... it looks wonky. I'll stop there as I think you see how anal I'm being... but having a full scale print that is perfect would make it easier to get that all where I want it. what I'm doing now is probably as good as it gets... but I think it could only improve with a more exact drawing to work from.

thank you sir, what I'm hearing is - it's not going to do anything for me (big print). I appreciate not having to go through the install and uninstall. I do actually set it up to where my first print is usually the most important stuff (pickups/bridge/etc) and the centerline and trust that one the most while everything else is just a 'suggestion' from there on in. it just bugs me. The worste is when I'm doing a neck because it's really hard to get it perfectly symmetric. I print it diagonally on a 14" piece but I end up really just using it as a guide and sort of plotting everything out manually anyway. I guess the only real solution is to print at kinkos or perhaps there are printers with better precision. I'll try my canon next time and see if that's any better. also going to try the adobe poster print just to see if there is any more precision that way. doubtfull. wonder if there's a poster print in photoshop. anywho, thank you again for the suggestion.

Not sure you quite understood me there. I am able to print it to multiple pages now... pretty easy to do. I can piece together a poster simply by tossing hash marks on my images and printing out an entire guitar body on only 3 pieces of paper. My issue is with the very small distortions I'm getting between the pages. An issue of precision. I'm aware that there are programs that are designed to do this automatically like this one: https://woodgears.ca/bigprint/ and that they even claim they can compensate for scale inaccuracy. my question is more "can anyone verify the accuracy/precision of such programs"?

adobe has a poster mode... just haven't bothered trying it because I'd have to convert to pdf first. Perhaps I should do a proof of concept and see... it'd be nice if there was an option that didn't require that.

so I freq use photoshop to create drawings... send them to my laser printer on 8.5 x 14 paper, and piece them together using hash lines. works ok, but freq I'll be piecing them together to notice that lining up the ctr line won't allow for perfect alignment elsewhere (like of the outter body line. This isn't an issue with software... I'm not scaling or anything... actual size... and it is very small distortions (a hair less than 16th inch) but it drives me crazy. I know I could send stuff to kinkos... and we actually have a lrg format printer at work, but I like to be able to print/re-print stuff at will when i'm working. what I have works, but I'd like to improve it so interested to hear if you have experienced similar. I know there are programs that automatically split your drawing and send it to the printer in pieces... and they advertise that they correct for little inconsistencies typical when doing so. Was wondering if anyone can verify if this resolves that issue before I waste time/money on something that may not improve things?

that finish is inspiring. I have not really been a big fan of the black/grey quilt thing but you've got the best variation on it I've seen. nice work.

emg was making a lot of passive models at one point... they did not go over well. For so long they dominated the marked among all metal-heads and as such commanded top dollar... but never really used it to try to innovate. Now that the tide has turned and folks just seem to hate on EMG (not for bass so much) you can get their stuff for much more reasonable prices. What I'm getting at is I bet they are great... but I bet they won't be all that well received because the timing is wrong. I hope they redeem themselves with much more innovation. I'd kind of like to try a set as I've read about these and thought they might be interesting. You'll have to let us know how you like them.

it's a really nice finish. nice work.

ow wow, that looks really nice with some color on it. I esp like the little warble over there by the tone knob... I love little natural features like that. I'm guessing this was filled with dark brown or black filler then clear? love the detail of the 3 pearl drops... but it keeps reminding me of a zz top song for some reason (hehe - I'm sorry, I'm very juvenile).

wow, some beauty wood and an ambitious project. me loves anything hollow so... will def check in and look fwd to watching it grow. cheers

i was promised pic and I see no pic! refund! (seriously tho, where's the pic?)

I feel the need to apologize that I could only vote for one. some amazing builds and I would love to play any one of them. y'all are somethin' else.