mistermikev

that's a good call. I forgot all about the belts. def check that... then again I had a little porter cable 10" before I got my craftsman... and you could stop the blade on that pretty easy... and belts were fine. just a crappy saw. afa drill press... biz I have an old black and decker from late 70s... could not find a belt for it anywhere... ended up buying a similar size v belt from auto store and it works great. not stopping that thing at all! (in case they are having issues finding belts!)

I bought a craftsman ba350 for $150 on craigslist that I've cut through 2" mahog, maple and walnut. hell I've cut through 2" walnut with my jigsaw!! i don't know if you can buy a motor... can't imagine it's worth it. I would say check craigslist, offerup, facebook marketplace... freq see rigid, craftsman and even rikon and grizzly. I've read that the older harbor freight bandsaws are good... but then you'll find a lot of complaints about them too! idk on new stuff... maybe wen? looks like a 14" grizzly is $600ish. most other decent ones are in the 550-600 range.

stopping like that... well I hope it's that your tires on your wheels are being spun. If it's actually stopping the motor... oh boy... that motor is not great. That sure sounds like it's the saw motor. a sharp blade might help... and olson isn't great as I understand (timber wolf) but shouldn't stop the blade.

that would be pretty sweet!

hehe, those extravagent worms - living in flamed maple homes! in most pieces it's out near the edge, or near the 20" mark, so hoping it wouldn't show up in a carve... but ya neva know!

agreed. I didn't even put anything on it to show the grain. really some outstanding stuff. there was a 12" board below this one... and I didn't want to be a glutton! Gonna keep hitting this place every other week cause that has to eventually dry up!

No bandsaw expert but happy to help. please describe what is happening? I can think of a number of things that might be the problem... crappy blade being at the top of that list... but underpowered, not setup correctly, improper technique might all be good contenders. walnut is pretty hard... but I know the older cent mach 14" bandsaws were supposed to be pretty good and I would think any 14" should cut thru 8/4 like nothing. I have a modest craftsman that would cut it like nothing.

think I might need to open up a side business!!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Curly-Maple-Bookmatched-Tonewood-One-Piece-Guitar-Top-CM426/143208590193?hash=item2157e5ab71:g:rIgAAOSw2udanXS~

well floyd is generally not able to be individually height adjustable... you generally want to ensure the bridge you buy is machined to match the neck. That said, not uncommon to cut a square piece of brass and put it under 1 or two saddles to adjust the height. other than that... the anchor screws are the only height ajustment. if you need to lower action, and you don't want to recess the trem... then the only option is to put an angle into the neck. looks like it won't take much based on your pics. You can take the neck out (assuming bolt) and put it in a vise at an angle and use a belt sander to bring it down, or you can put in a shim at the heel, or you can route the front of the pocket. you could also hand sand the angle into it... but that is going to take some serious effort and is prone to issue. I would first experiment with shims to get the correct angle, and then if the shim bothers you... or still isn't enough... one of the other options I mentioned might help. nice looking guitar. reminds me of the bc rich gunslingers of the 80's. edit - looking at your pocket it looks pretty deep so... shims might be your only answer.

oops I did it again... I bought some more wood, load-ed in my truck... oh baby baby ok, I'll stop now. anywho... one pice curly tops? you betcha one side has some worm holes... how deep could they go? anyone know? but the other side is tasty times two... and the other half of that board... 15 1/2" wide!!! while I was there some basswood caught my eye as well... didn't even know there was a figured variety! also this is my colossal wood storage unit and new bench

my advice would be... if you have a printer... get some waterslide... do up some graphics in paint. light coat of clear and slide it on. then just bury the decal. I don't have specifics on nitro... but I can tell you there are many things it DOES NOT LIKE! It reacts to everything. It is an awesome finish tho. a while back I bought an airbrush off craigslist... works really well for details but I wouldn't recommend it for painting an entire guitar. rattle cans can do a great finish if you do your prep work well. also, there is a lot of cool paint at auto parts stores. metallic, sparkle... and it's a step up from what you might find elsewhere locally. you can also get 2k gloss at most.

I'm just gonna leave this here: that thing looks outstanding. really, just clean work. finish looks fantastic. top notch work.

"The Les Flaus" - Lucky scratch build #7 for me! FINISHED WEIGHT: 8lbs 6.9oz BODY MATERIAL: QUILTED MAPLE(CORE), 3/4" 4A QTR SAWN CURLY MAPLE CARVED TOP BODY CONSTRUCTION: FULL LENGTH HOLLOW CHAMBER ON EACH SIDE, SOLID CTR BLOCK BINDING: SINGLE PLY CREAM NECK MATERIAL: CURLY MAPLE/WENGE/CURLY MAPLE NECK JOINT: 4DEG ANGLE SET NECK NUT: BONE SCALE LENGTH: 27.5" FRETBOARD: 24 FRET FRETBOARD RADIUS: 16" FRETBOARD MATERIAL: GRANADILLO FRETBOARD FRETS: EVO GOLD MED LOW FRETBOARD INLAY: GOLD MOTHER OF PEARL TRUS ROD: AT HEAL THRU 21ST FRET (ALLIED LUTHEIR) HEADSTOCK MATERIAL: INDIAN ROSEWOOD HEADSTOCK ANGLE: 14DEG HEADSTOCK INLAY: GOLD MOTHER OF PEARL + IMITATION GOLD LEAF TUNING MACHINES: GOTOH SD90 3X3 VINTAGE AUTO LOCKING 1:15 RATIO BRIDGE: GOTOH GE101/103 TUNE-O-MATIC PICKUPS: SEYMOUR DUNCAN SENTIENT BRIDGE/NAZGUL NECK 3-WAY TOGGLE (ALLPARTS), 2 MASTER VOLUMES (BOURNES)... 4P4T (ALPHA) ROTARY(1:PARALLEL/PARA, 2:PARA X-PATTERN, 3:SERIES X-PAT, 4:SER/SER) PUSH/PULL (BOURNES) ACTIVE DIRTY-BOOSTER ELECTROSOCKET JACK (NEUTRIC 3 CONDUCTOR) BUILD ORIGINS: Was planning on doing a series of teles... as I thought I'd save effort by using a common set of templates more than once. While I was busy thinking about plans for the first two, I came across a craigslist add for a tele body. It had a cedar top that was meh, but a quilted maple body that caught my eye. That was the random start to this build and so the "Les Flaus" was born! I wanted something that was going to be equally apt to play sphagetti western to more modern rock... and I figured the two humbucker format would be best for that. I settled on a design to turn the guitar into something resembling a les paul, but with a tele shape and a baritone scale length. Why "Les Flaus"? Well, mostly - I just thought it was funny! It needed to be 'less something' to pay homage to it's origin, and "flaus' is a little less obvious then 'flaws' but means "imperfections' in german. I thought a lot about how one might improve on the les paul format, and a common complaint about them is the typical neck break. By moving the truss access to the 22nd fret and away from the headstock/neck transition - I strengthened that transition. I also added a valute, and a spline going down the headstock as well. I like to set milestones for myself - to try and raise my skills beyond myself. This guitar would represent a number of challenges for me: first time doing a carved body, first time doing a headstock with such delicate curves. First time doing a multi laminate neck. First time doing an traditional angled les paul neck joint. As usual, it is only through the examples set by the luthiers here on projectguitar, the encouragement, wisdom and friendship, that I arrived at the end of this journey with the following guitar... so thank you to the many members who made this possible! VIDEO DEMO: MY BUILD THREAD FOR THIS GUITAR CAN BE FOUND HERE:

but why buy one when you can spend twice as much + several hours to build one that will be totally not moveable when you eventually move??? I mean... I spent $150 on lumber and spent all day building a giant structure I can't take with me!! He he... but now I'll have so much space for wood (go buy some more and get it drying)... and more importantly not have to take down a pile to get to the piece I need. Plus an epic cnc bench that I can enclose later on for lower noise/safety/less-dust. and I built it with the bench at the height where I can use it for an out-feed on my tablesaw if needed. It's also 6" taller than my other bench so might be nice on the back once in a while. All that said... I am totally beat and will be hurting at work tomorrow so probably just should have bought some like your pic!!!

right on. that will make a lovely prs. yes - two stall garage. it feels quite cramped but I guess I'm just not great about efficiently using my space. On the other hand... that saw stop... it is so easy to fold up and goes to a vertical position where it's really only about 15" x 40" footprint (or thereabouts). That is the most well designed tool I have for sure! I'm exhausted from working on this storage setup. not looking forward to finishing either cause I'm going to have to temporarily move my entire wood pile to install it. am looking forward to being done with it all tho!

wow, those tops are really cool. why do they look 'greyish'? probably just the camera but makes me think they would look really cool with that vinegar/steel-wool finish they do on oak some times. well, for the record... I cleaned my garage up a bit and re-organized it... although it doesn't look it at all!

at first I was like "carvin' hair? playing a carvin while having hair?" then I was like "oooooh, riiiiight, carvin some little females hair... got it". hehe rawk on.

since I have a new tool coming next week... i figured I'd take care of my wood storage issue and build a table that would I could put it on... 3' x 8' x 7' rack. also I mashed my middle finger so flipping people off is going to be sketchy for a while wut chew doin'? I'

u sir, are a class act.

Congrats! what a fantastic build!

yeah... what biz said... also - what are you using as a tuner? is it broke? I ask because if the guitar is tuned correct... the harmonic at the 12th should always be correct... it is only the fretted note that would be incorrect if intonation was bad.

wow does that neck pickup ever sound like queen. nailed it. nice work.

right on. that's an easy to follow description - thank you for that. 4th axis... also a good description. I saw the piece they label 4th axis and was wondering "is that the thing where they spin the item and the cnc stays stationary". I've seen some videos where they do that. Doubt I'll ever use it but... when I looked again it was actually a dif of $40 and it seems like usb would be better for windows so... went with that one. I've got a lot of wood-shedding to do now!! Thank you both so much! I suspect it's going to be a lot of frustration for forseable future but at some point that is going to blossom into a lot of fun!

roger that. As I understand the equiv that runs on linux is a little cheaper... but I guess at that point I can just factor in a $175 license for mach3. I can live with that. I've done some bash shell and worked with linux quite a bit and have some linux boxes at my work now... but I'd prefer not to have to add that learning curve to the mix. thank you @Mikro and thank you @Curtisa - for answering me and generally putting up with me. I appreciate it. I've been looking at some cad tutorials... and man that aspire stuff is pretty cool. pretty easy to import a bmp and make a cool 3d object. thanks for pointing me in that direction.

so... "Carving Instructions : G code/TAB files/nc file/NCC files" so I assume this means I'll need mach3 no matter what right?