mistermikev

yeah... that'd be a hair heavy. but a 3.5" thick hollowbody les paul... now that'd be pretty cool. a mini es175

love the inlay work and figured ebony??? I need to change my pants.

well... there are some things I'm seeing about it right off the bat. the plunge action is very well done - smooth and stable. no wobble at all. the porter 6931 series has a small amount of wobble that if you aren't familiar can screw you up. that said, I prefer the porter cable depth set. the set is metal, and you can lock in the 'viewfinder' and on the bosch version it's just a piece of plastic that you can't lock. both are great routers for sure, and it's easy to see why either would be popular.

"not buying any more tools" yeah... hright (imagine wayne's world voice). I now have 5 routers because I just like having them setup for different things... def don't need them... but last night I picked up this: because it was made by bosch for craftsman and is identical... interchangeable with bosch parts... and was literally 'never used' for $90. Def did not need it. I also keep visiting my local wood store despite having more wood then I need already. Saw some amazing 4/4 figured mahog 12" wide. $8/bdft and was really tempted! if it had been 8/4 I'd have been all over it. I've never tested anything for moisture... but here in az I just don't think it's an issue. It is SO dry here! Leaving it in the garage tho, I do have a couple of pieces of maple that have twisted... but mostly because they weren't stacked properly. Need to stop doing that!

lots of dif ways you could do this... if you had a big bandsaw... if you had a power planer, or if you had a router... make a router sled. Personally I try to use the wood i have so I'd be inclined to reduce weight somehow and use it as thick as is... but that'd probably require making it hollow and putting a top on it.

right on. I've heard some other folks say they rough cut to size before storing which isn't a bad idea... but idk, if I cut it I can't potentially change my mind and use it for something else! I've been looking on google image and saw a nice idea... I think if I made a smaller two piece version of this... but put it on rollers, and used 3/4 pipe as the slats... might be flexible and moveable. hehe, a lot like mine... just a pile. prob is when you need that one that is second from the bottom! someone mentioned vertical stacking to me... which is def efficient as it's easy to get to pieces... but A) problems with warpage and B ) I like the idea of the wood being dried - even if it's pretty dry already having some air between pieces is going to make it react better to changes in humidity.

just wanted to thank everyone again as I'm in here re-reading this thread... lots of helpful info - thanks again for that.

I've got a decent pile... and today had to go thru it a bit in looking for a few boards and was thinking about building just a simple table with a few shelves to store it... but I'm curious how y'all storing your slabs. in return I will show you some of my wood porn... here's some 4/4 'plain' soft maple I bought a while back... 12 1/4" wide... thinking it would be a nice thing to use for an sg top or some smaller body guitar for a 1 piece top. got 12 feet of the stuff... here's my bastard wood pile... just a mess. really need something simple to make it easier to store and get at a random piece of it. any ideas? it actually looks like a lot less than it is cause theres purpleheart, sapelle, 8/4 mahog/walnut/ash, birdseye, curly... it's kind of a leaning stack at this point.

whoa nelly... when you say gaps under them... what do you actually mean? I don't want to make assumptions here but... are we talking literally under the tang, or are we talking between the bottom of the fret and the top of the fretboard? when you say you have 2mm action... there's a lot of things I'd be looking at before frets even entered my mind. 2mm at the first fret?? that's a bad nut. 5mm at 13 and 4mm at 24... this suggests you need to adjust your bridge. none of these things have anything to do with leveling frets and you def wouldn't even be able to tell if there are fret level issues with action that high. before you go mess up your guitar... I'd suggest you get your guitar setup right. then if you have issues with some frets being hi/low you can move towards frets.

congrats on a well earned win brother.

for the record folks... watched a popular setup video again... applied that when setting up my bandsaw. took a former resaw failure -some 5" x 7/8" flamed maple, and successfully resawed it into 3 1/4"ish pieces. Very nice.didn't even have a fancy fence. just a harbor freight clamp with some mdf attached to it. this thing cuts straight as an arrow now! thanks for all the advice! (also thanks @MiKro for recent bandsaw pep talk and advice)

right on. I appreciate the input. looking out on the web the thing about resaw you hear over and over is that there shouldn't be any drift if your bandsaw is set up right. I def take that to heart. I've watched so many setup videos... and I can get the thing to cut almost a perfect straight line freehand on a 2" thick piece... it's just when I try to resaw thru 4+" that it becomes unpredictable. Part of the issue is (I think) that my motor is under powered. its a craftsman bas350 so 14" bandsaw but 1hp motor. the other hurdle is my inexperience on a bandsaw. last time I tried I realized also... that if you are resawing... you really need to have a clean and square edge on the piece. I haven't tried it again since the new blade... but I believe sooner or later all the little pieces are going to converge on limited success! when I get ready to try again... I'm going to re-watch the setup videos, re-setup my bandsaw, make sure I have a good square edge, and possibly add a rikon fence to the mix. will also have to research cool blocks so thanks for that.

oak is known to have very deep grain and not take oils well. it's sort of like coral in that sense... very pourous. similar to ash I 'spose. what I see in the first pic just looks like some chipping... second pic looks like someone filled in the grain with something black. if you want to grain fill... on oak... you are much better off using a commercial grain filler as it sands pretty easy and won't sand unevenly against the much harder oak. In cabinet shops we used to use spackle to fill but I wouldn't do that on a guitar as IMO what you fill with does matter. That said... I wouldn't fill the chips myself... I'd make it a feature and do some sort of decorative route there... but that's just me. there are lots of other woods that don't have the deep grain oak has... maple for one. lots of other woods that are much easier to sand (mahogany). IMO oak is actually pretty difficult to shape so... it is normal that it's difficult. whatever you do don't stress... this is fun. take a step back and smell the roses. There is no problem you can't fix with enough time and thought. I believe in you.

well thank you for saying so. honestly these are pretty simple circuits... and I didn't do the hard math of designing the crossover (that was done by greenboy/fearful) I just followed the diagram. that said - thank you all the same!

so getting pretty close to assembly time... still have to mark-out/drill speaker t-nuts, do my tweeter and lpad cutouts, jack holes, and handle mounts... but getting there... got my crossovers all etched and wired up... got the spade tabs mounted and labels on...

hehe, new crossover genre - country djentleman. In their defense (outrage) I posted it on a telecaster forum so... I get the impression I could have been playing black sabbath and they would have wanted clean + compressor!

being hard on yourself is the sign of a perfectionist... good for you. personally I'd glue a little chunk of wood in there and route it again. That said, it's purely a pride thing. gtr looks great. man australian red cedar you say... looks an awful lot like mahog. beautiful stuff.

very sleek. jack on the back is a nice touch. awesome work as always.

well thank you for taking the time and your thoughful comments. I know I'm no trip to hollywood but I try. I posted this on a tele forum where several where outraged at the use of higher gain for country... and looking back I have to agree with the popular consensus - that I should have recorded it with the typical clean country sound. Something to store away for future endeavors! thank you again for the comment!

looks like a million bux. your patience is something I greatly admire.

wasn't skeptical... think they are worthy of full build. vnice job. ah, u channel - that is a wide one. frets - it's a personal pref thing. taller will last longer and bend easier. wider will also last longer. thinner is easier to crown but personally I'd go wide tall. 1/4 final thickness is def the standard. doh, meant 500k but 250k will work too. worked for alan holdsworth anyway.

sounds good. esp clean

some pretty neat looking 'first builds'. cudos. the truss rod channel looks really wide but that may be the pics? esp going thru the neck/headstock are I would suggest you want to minimize that as much as possible. afa pots... you've got an open slate there and could go 'a lot of ways'. there are a ton of diagrams online and if you hunt around you can probably find something to do exactly what you want... but first you must decide what you want! I'm certain that once you get going in that direction... many here will help you get to the finish line. looks like your final design is 1 lever switch and two pots... since you are going humbucker... I'd just buy two 250k pots and a 3 way lever. 1 master vol, 1 master tone, and a 3 way selector. very straight fwd is a good way to start. welcome and looking forward to more pics.

I do appreciate the response, and that's a lovely bass... and I really like the look of that... and it's a solid idea... but I've played fretless quite a while and I absolutely love having marker lines all the way across. it made the transition to fretless bass so easy for me. I rely on them a lot esp when doing chords because it really helps you stay in tune. My plan was to do fret slots like normal, but then fill them with veneer. I plan to pack it in as tight as possible and then use either ca or epoxy to help keep it totally flat. right-o. I never had an issue with my old fretless which had white fret markers. Never felt them, never noticed any difference in tone... but I suspect a bigger inlay might be a different story. Even with wood... unless cut by cnc... I can imagine any gaps under it being a source of issue. Now given komodos inlay abilities... perhaps HE could pull that off... but i know MY limits! Not even gonna try. well thank you Scott, thats very kind of you to say. Funny, I was actually thinking about some sort of fish hook for inlay... hadn't seen the fish hook in the horn, nor had I seen it as a wave as crusader mentioned... seeing this bass so dif now! thank y'all for that.

right on. I get the sense it's probably not a great idea to do much for markers as there is probably a reason it is so rare on fretless basses... esp if you were doing a slide... might sound inconsistent. Kind of wonder why you don't see wood inlays, but then I 'spose you'd have to be extra careful about getting any gap under the inlay. think I'll just avoid it altogether. thanks for the reply.