mistermikev

"take a bow" is what I meant there. Yes, I put relief in my necks to compensate for the string vibration max at the middle of the string. I don't get string rattle unless I really get aggressive and my action is typically between 1/32 and 1/16.

thanks for the reply biz. yes they turn freely but there is a fair amount of resistance on them. I could tighten up the lock nuts and that would prevent. also thought about adding lock nuts to the 4 height bolts to prevent vibrations from spinning them. again, there is some resistance there so I don't think it will but better safe than sorry.

so this is a jig I built for adding a taper to my stock for a lam neck. Haven't sent her thru yet, and admittedly nervous about sending metal thru a planer. test me? have I thought of everything? well I have some lock nuts on the bolts that are holding down force on the top board... so that should they vibrate the bolts won't end up dropping down into the planer. Just have the pieces secured with a big long strip of carpet tape. I think once the down force has 'em they aren't going to move anyway but side to side anyway. thoughts? i mike v being of sound body and mind hereby admit my last will and testament...

little late to the party but always room for one more I figure... if there is no buzz when playing each note soft... but there IS buzz when playing the sm note loud... it's string buzz not fret buzz. I set my actionas low as possible. So all my guitars... despite relief... will have string rattle if you go pete townsend on them. your hand built guitars are probably better than your factory made... so take a bow, then decide if you want to raise your action or learn to play lighter.

right... I've often times been obsessed with "i can do better" only to end up degrading from there. it's sometimes hard to recognize if what awaits you if you keep chasing... that said... you only get one shot to make it right cause once you put that hardware on it's 10 times harder to redo!

if you look just to the right of the bridge pickup... there's about 1/4" divot there. it's pretty well going to be covered by the lp pick guard... but atm I'm actually feeling like I can do better on the whole thing. this might be one of those situations where you keep messing with it when you shouldn't so Imma sleep on it.

pretty easy to spot here... but I haven't filled it. I think we're just seeing the edge of the depression. I'm just going to fill with layers as I'm afraid the watco can of lacquer I have isn't a perfect match for the spray cans.

fairly hard to spot here... almost invisible

cream rising for sure.

right on brutha. I think I might have her on the run here because I let some acetone sit on it overnight... I've now wet sanded... and from an angle it looks like it will be pretty hidden. I'm going to shoot a new coat on top, and see... will post pics here shortly. hehe, you caught me off guard w that one. his latest build looks outstanding... I'm guessing we all have our trials and tribulations but this(lp/tele) build has been seemingly cursed!

thank you ad. very much appreciate it and think you might def be on to something with that sacrificing a goat idea... but I'm going to wait to hear from @Norris!!!!! thank you komodo. lat night I tried some acetone out of desperation. I put some in a syringe and poked the area to try to get it down to the 'shattered' mark. unfortunately there isn't much of a crack there... just fine shatter marks. I'm going to wet sand it today, put some more on... and then try a coat over the top to see if they will meld together. I think I'll order the cellusolve as it has been recommended by a few and if it works; great... if not it's good to have around. I'm starting to think it may be too fine to work... but I'll give it a shot. On the bright side I'm logging a lot of finishing hours on this one build! Getting better with the airbrush too!

so... I've been finishing my lespaul/tele for about 3 months now. short version is I scratched finish scraping binding, all the way to wood, so did complete refin. then i left it outside and the shade got away from it and the sun caused little bubbles. then I burned thru the sunburst again trying to fix that. this time I spot repaired the burst and it turned out good. but now... grandpa's getting old... lost control of fingers, dropped a can and got a nice 1/4 shatter mark in it. I wetsanded it down and thought maybe new finish would melt into it but no such luck. I'm staring yet another complete refin in the face here and went online and did some reading about how to 'un check' a finish using butyl cellosolve... is that the only option? I'd have to order more than I'd like to have around and then wait 3 days to get it. would a drop of acetone work? hair dryer? ca glue? any other options? it's less of a 'fill' and more of a 'tiny cracks/shatter marks'. I think now that I put a layer of nitro on top it's probably sealed so ca glue likely will do nothing. oh, despair. I guess if this is the worste thing that happens today... i'll be ok. anyone help a brutha out?

once I watched a short film about japanese instrument makers. it was quite interesting how they revere certain very old woods. I think that film was about bouzouki but I could be wrong... no idea what a guitar bouzouki is but I suspect it must be similar to a guitar banjo. should be some interesting things happening. good for you you brave sum gun!

interesting - I also call mine a disaster shop but I suspect it's for totally different reasons (hehe - it's where I make disasters out of wood from scratch!) bug but stain... sounds like someone has a great name for a stain company. love it. that acoustic looks beautiful... and the guitar is lovely. can't imagine what would make someone stop mid stream on two seemingly stunning builds... but perhaps someday I'll get there! cheers

bass looks fantastic. those hipshot tuners look heavy duty. love the thumbrest between the pickups. inlay looks great. we have a winner.

that... is funny.

I've built quite a few speaker boxes and nowadays it's the inverse of the tonewood argument. they say that mdf is superior to hardwood or plywood because it doesn't resonate. that said... lots of hifi guys build using hardwood. all the fender amps were originally pine. I've got a deville that I converted to a head / cab combo... all pine 4x10 and all pine 1x15. that thing is the cleanest amp on earth. sounds great. cornford builds all solid pine cabs. mesa does a number of fancy solid wood cabs. but all the studio monitor mfg using mdf. these are mdf. personally I think solid wood is more rigid and that works to an advantage on smaller cabs. I'm not sure it wouldn't be a problem on a 4x12 unless you really braced it well.

yup, I have improved them by adding quality tonewood. they sound so much better now... esp in the highs. Tone transfer is unbelievable! (jk)

mdf is made exclusively from tonewood... they grind up maple, bubinga, snakewood, and magic beans (in the correct proportions of course) and bond them together with the tears of luthiers. Once it's finalized it is blessed by the pope. That's how they seal the tone in. hehe, that said I'm a big fan of danelectro so I should probably stop laughing!

lovely stuff but not sure I agree with the scale length and choice of tone mdf (hehe).

thank you sir. their not amazing or anything... but I've gotten used to their shortcomings so... they work pretty good for me. Really want something with ribbon tweeters... and it's on my list... someday!

really need some new studio montitors... but in the meantime I figured I'd spruce up my old ones with some eucalyptus veneer... hope you like it!

all I know about chainsaws I learned from the following video:

congratulations!

I'm doing an upcoming bass that is going to have 2 9v. I plan to put a switch I've seen in to go back and forth between 9v with longer life or 18v with more headroom. I figure it'd be something to switch to 18v for recording and back to 9v for regular practice. I hate changing batteries and have a lot of guitars with them... so personally would like to minimize that. 18 vs 9 isn't going to make a huge dif in all cases... but I figure why not have the option? pretty cheap switch and can always just set it to 9v and forget it. that's my 2 cents anyway.