Bizman62

They say that the Devil is in the details. Then again well made details make any work look much classier. An item showing flawless craftmanship is worth admiring but a detail that looks like planned can take it to the next level. Can't remember who it was, but he tends to glue a strip of veneer around the control cavity cover for a tighter fit, similarly to your rosette. Another similar trick is to inlay the jack plate. Simple but effective... And don't they even say that binding is just another way to hide poor top joints?

The black trim makes the rosette look more like a designed thing instead of "just" a round piece of wood.

I really like the shape! Never heard about the Vela before but I wish I had slanted my two-horned LP Jr. similarly... And the wood... Both strongly figured and striped at the same time! Guess he wants it painted?

The end result is simply stunning! Surgical clean, yet it looks like "anyone" could do it... given they have the skill and patience!

I know absolutely nothing about bass playing... The upright basses have quite a tight radiused fretboards but that may be because they can be played with a bow as well. Aren't some of them even partially faceted??? And if memory serves me right, on a guitar a tight radius makes strumming chords easier while a flatter fretboard enables heavier bending. You don't usually strum more than two strings at the same time on a bass, do you? Nor do you bend them. Then again classical guitars have a flat fretboard and they are most often fingered just like basses. Would that mean that a semi-flat fretboard would be ideal? In your case 12" (that would be my choice just because)

Isn't that about the thickness of standard veneer?

Truer words have rarely been said!

I don't think they make roasted wood that way! Looking delicious!

My first one, from scratch A new body to an existing neck: Second full build, neck through: Third full build, neck through: Fourth, neck through with a top: Fifth, the latest one:

I just bought some 5 m3 of alder and aspen but they aren't sawn and dried. She loves it! But I guess the price I paid was much lower than that of Novowood's...

Thanks @Prostheta, they seem to have some nice species there for guitar building. I wonder what my wife would say if I bought 1 m3 each...

For what it's worth I've often wondered why the bottoms rarely seem to be bookmatched or even closely so. Of course in two piece bodies without a separate top only one face can be bookmatched and in that case it'd be the top. But I've seen lots of guitars (or rather pictures) with very unmatching backs. I can't tell if they've used some very expensive wood there but if one piece is straight and the other curls at a 45 degree angle from the seam... That definitely looks cheap to me! Re this guitar, I think a possible reason for that semi-negative comment is due to the body pieces not being symmetric. The flat part of the bottom looks like one piece but in the cutaway and at the end the grain lines draw a highly visible V-pattern. To me it looks quite nice in the cutaway, but in all honesty the asymmetric end looks a bit less thought of than the rest. Either a two-piece with a center stream or a symmetric three-piece might have looked a bit more refined.

Congrats for another GOTM!

That's a good, simple, cost effective scarf joint and made of laminated wood it should be plenty strong. Your bandsaw must be well set up, the cut looks almost like planed. I'm glad I tend to... I had this almost finished one hanging from the handle of an upper cabinet by a hook in the place of the end pin. Well, the handle turned and the hook slipped. Headstock first for 1.5 metres... The pine floor took more damage than the guitar! Nothing wrong with the laminated headstock, some minor scratches in the edges of the body caused by secondary hits to objects on the floor.

I've found out that ordering by dozens costs almost the same as ordering just one. And if you have builder friends around you can often sell the extras to cover your entire cost!

Yep, all the jigs are already built into the base! That would be a neat tool for mass production, maybe a bit expensive for a one-off neck? There's quite a lot of five star reviews but some of the critical reviews at Amazon were umm... interesting.

Looks like a good start for salvation!

That sound! Or should I say "those sounds"! Very twangy, on a master level. Very inspiring for the type of music one would most likely want to play with that guitar. I just can't imagine seeing her on stage with a masquarade metal band! Your playing was great too, very suitable for those sounds. And the looks... Oh boy! They say that the devil is in the details but it seems he must have had a day off.

I came to thinking about a much simpler solution: If you have a fence, you can reduce the effect of changing pressure with every soft spot in the wood by attaching your workpiece to a rectangular solid block or other perpendicular jig similarly to what was described in the video. You'd lose the exact adjusting method but you'd have a means to keep your piece straight. Like so: Another simple trick is to take a large enough board and saw a kerf up to the middle of the board. Usually the plate in the table has a large opening, a narrow gap just the width of the blade should help from wandering. The image is from up above:

No expertise here... I just wanted to say that there's several ways and materials to fill the pores. Lacquer type fillers tend to shrink so multiple applications are needed for a glass smooth finish - although a well polished grainy surface can have a more "woody" feel! Once I saw someone fill the grain of an ash body with ebony dust and either glue or lacquer. Wood dust should fill more effectively as you can control the solids content.

It's amazing how a sliver of veneer can take the looks to another level! IMO the standard look of P90's has always yelled "cheap!". The covers look just what they are, plastic pieces from a well polished mould with small humps and bumps where the plastic has slightly deformed while cooling down. Even leveling and sanding matte makes a huge difference! Not to mention what you did. And it only takes a minute or three! Speaking about plastic covers, my hometown used to have a factory where they made the covers for Nokia phones back when 2110 was the top of the line. Obviously, considering the price, even the standard quality was good but the customizers really made some stunning covers. I especially liked the fake walnut, it looked real enough to match with the panels of a Mercedes...

How coincidental! Just yesterday evening I watched a lengthy Jerry Rosa video where he demonstrated a new tool for the bandsaw. As you see, it's intended for cutting uniform slices very accurately. As Jerry says there, pushing a piece against the fence has all kinds of variables like uneven pressure which can make the blade drift no matter how well your setup has been done. As wood is quite an inconsistent material by nature something odd can always be expected so I wouldn't consider trying to compensate a softer or harder spot in the wood an operator error.

Custom made pickup housings! Looking how you made those tiny boxes made me forget to read what they were for, or at least I didn't fully understand the idea until now! You've taken "high definition" yet to another level!

I just keep shaking my head in awe.

Good find! Although the basics are similar it's more explanative to see a scarf joint being cut instead of a molding.