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Bizman62

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Everything posted by Bizman62

  1. Bizman62
    Thinking outside the box... Painting a car or bike is really not any different to painting a guitar. After you've got a good layer of primer sanded level, the paint doesn't know if there's metal or wood underneath.
  2. Bizman62
    Thanks, @mattharris75, foam roller was the correct word! Our neighbour who has done his share in building stands for trade shows called them 'dick rollers'... An even less expensive option for disposable paint pans is to lay a piece of cling film into any suitable holder, even a plate. That said, in a normal household disposable plastic containers make the biggest waste so just wash one food package when needed.
  3. Bizman62
    I'm not a solid color paint guy either so no big hints from me either. Outside of bikes I've seen similar effects in cars, even stock ones. Your automotive paint vendor might know something. And the local car paint shop could also be of help, they might even do it for you for a decent price!
  4. Bizman62
    In a negative pressure booth, preferably equipped with a what-do-they-call-it filtered sucking cabinet so you can keep the fumes in an even smaller area, an active carbon mask adds quite a good layer of protection. I bought one from China for about 7 euros including mail. The better version with glasses is just a little more. - When buying a mask for painting, make sure that the vent isn't right in front of you! The moisture from your breath tends to condense and drip on your fresh finish.
  5. Bizman62
    According to this study there's tannin in ebony at least in the fruit, leaves and bark. But as the study shows the deeper you go the less tannin there is. And tannin is the key for darkness in vinegar ebonising. If the tannin content of bare ebony doesn't give you the desired darkness, you can use black tea or/and walnut husks to increase the tannin content as described here: https://makerdesignlab.com/experiments/how-to-ebonize-wood/
  6. Bizman62
    That's a nice booth you've built there! The clear walls for ambient light are clever! IMO negative pressure is better as it pushes all the fumes outside. With a positive pressure booth you'd be inhaling the fumes forever in the rest of the workshop. There was times I thought I'd mention a thing or two but as I read further I noticed you already had sorted them out, including the filtered air inlet in the door and keeping the car away from the outlet grille. Very nice!
  7. Bizman62
    Eaglehead? At this stage it looks more like a Pigeon...
  8. Bizman62
    I was so glad that I could find that very story free to read online.
  9. Bizman62
    That's a Gupfo Leimfix/Gluefix made by Gustav Pfohl GmbH, Germany. According to their site you can order one directly from them: https://www.gupfo.com/en/contact/
  10. Bizman62
    To make @Drak's method even more fool proof, drill holes to either end, then align your router to match the holes. That way you won't go too far. A box type jig that'd prevent from routing too long a slot would do the same without having to worry about making the end holes match. A simple rectangular hole in a board, snug one way and the length of the switch wider than the router base.
  11. Bizman62
    Good catch! After posting I remembered that there's a tiny triangular piece at the end, but I had to rush to get my Covid vaccination so I had no time to revisit the post.
  12. Bizman62
    Now that you said it... That adds some extra thought to how the grain direction goes. As you know, endgrain joints aren't the strongest. End to side is a bit better and side to side is the strongest. A closer look to the original reveals that the pieces are directed in all three dimensions. Some blocks have the end grain facing up, providing a side joint on each side.
  13. Bizman62
    For obvious reasons this reminds me of "The King's Ankus", one of my favourite stories in the Jungle Book by Kipling. One reason for the story having made such a big influence on the young boy must have been the Finnish lyrics to the Snake Charmer song which unlike the original told about the old white King of Cobras in the Jungle. The Finnish version has been recorded several times by the leading artists from the mid-50's and is still very popular so I haven't been able to avoid hearing it! So, speaking about Angkor Wat and the King's Ankus, the hardware sure has to be something invaluable - gold. jewels, ivory, pearls... or even enamel as ornamented with precious metals.
  14. Bizman62
    IMO we've so far just tried to understand how each one of us understands the terms used. For my part I don't know the meaning of Decay or Release, Attack and Sustain being more understandable, and the only effect I own is a delay... "Bloom" sounds nice and flowery, is there a simple explanation how it sounds?
  15. Bizman62
    I bought two rattle cans of clear lacquer from Lidl about a year ago for my current build. When I finally got to the finishing stage the first can worked decently and dried relatively fast. With the second one I had more issues. First the stuff didn't want to come out from the nozzle, instead there was lacquer all over the top of the can. Very messy! When the stuff finally started flowing I was too worried about it stopping again so I ended having some heavy runs. They hadn't solidified in two weeks, still soft and sticky when I cut them flatter with a razor blade! There's better products available at automotive and hardware stores for about the same price, featuring turnable fan spray nozzles etc. Lidl often have some really good stuff for a low price but the lacquer certainly doesn't fall into that category!
  16. Bizman62
    I can fully understand @mistermikev's logic as my thoughts have trotted similar paths. Half a second can be a long time, in music played at 120 bpm that'd be one full measure! That said, sustain isn't everything. If you play staccato notes, the attack is more important. There's more than one single reason why guitarists use several guitars in different pieces of music. This testing process has shed some light to the eternal questions of guitar building mythology, at least insofar as giving confidence in trying new methods and materials as @Gogzs said.
  17. Bizman62
    I was thinking about a clear grain filler as well. I've never used one, though, so I don't know how clear it actually is. Some testing would be required to see if it works as promised. The automotive lacquer I bought was suggested for its clarity, it really is clear unlike many others. The clearcoat I put on my floor was purple and the one I applied to my door was brown like tea, Both dried "clear", darkening and deepening the pine. But even the faintest hue may affect the underlaying colour. The other floor lacquer which was used by a pro was "clear" as well but it was milky due to the UV protection. Agreed, after 26 years the wood is still much lighter than the floor I laid down ten years ago, but it also looks less "alive".
  18. Bizman62
    That'll be an interesting day! Gotta love your patience with my endless requests...
  19. Bizman62
    Our local car paint vendor sells a 2k designed just for that. It basically requires a paint sprayer but since you already have secured the flakes I guess you could use a paint brush as well. However, that stuff requires professional level facilities regarding ventilation and personal protection so it's not something you'd do on your kitchen table or garage! They sold me that stuff only since I could tell that there's a painting room with a wall size vacuum. There's other, potentially less poisonous 2k clearcoats available for households, maybe one of those. Apart from the fumes the biggest issue with brushing is to get a thick enough layer to be sanded level. Instead of a brush, a mohair roller might give a better result. Spray Max makes 2k rattle cans. I got one from that same place.
  20. Bizman62
    Adjacent pieces, you say? Well... Wood is a living creature so there may be spots where the properties change rapidly length (or height?) wise. That may especially be true in two locations: Either at the stem where the log widens to the root system, or at the lowest branches where the growth direction changes. I guess we as guitar builders are most interested in the former as the figuration there is the strongest, the first couple of metres are what we'd like for guitar tops. Good "building lumber" can be found in the most uniform part of the trunk between the stem and the branches. A wide quartersawn plank can also be very different from either side, the heartwood side is most likely denser than the bark side - even if all of the wood is sapwood. The closer to the center, the tighter the radius of the growth rings. Just thinking out loud.
  21. Bizman62
    I didn't even think of anything that would literally mix with the dye, just thought that the wood must have a yellow subhue underneath the brown.
  22. Bizman62
    There's obviously a lot of yellow in Myrtle, which is why the blue turns to green. I suppose you're using a shade of blue with a hint of yellow instead of a reddish blue as the latter might become brown. What really struck me is that the dye alone looks mint green while the clearcoated version definitely is jungle camo!
  23. Bizman62
    Are we talking about the very same piece of wood, or a different plank?
  24. Bizman62
    Agreed, 3% longer isn't much. Looking at the integers only makes it look more dramatic. But it's more than what the difference in sustain of the various woods for the high-E was. I wonder if any wood benefits more from string through than some others. Since the Tas Oak had the shortest sustain, comparing it to the longest sustaining Celery Top Pine should reveal if there's any need for further testing.
  25. Bizman62
    The numbers don't lie, there's a significant difference in sustain. This time I could also hear a difference in the sound. In my ears the top load seems to lack depth and body. Is that because of some harmonics being lost, I don't know. Anyhow, the thru body sound is beefier, at least in my ears and headphones.
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