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JayT

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Posts posted by JayT

  1. 13 hours ago, RonMay said:

    I think this is going to be very cool. I have never seen a head stock like that. A tear drop  see through is very innovative and it will surely match the tear drop fret markers.

    @RonMay Thanks! I've used a slightly simpler version this shape on my first build(s) - people either really like it or flat out hate it :)

    IMG_5738.thumb.JPG.45cb125487a03cebfff6643b873df689.JPG

    13 hours ago, MiKro said:

    as far as the headstock, I would maybe consider using a small radius in the point area. This will help mitigate any possible cracking in that area. Just a thought?

    @MiKro -- yeah, that's an excellent idea :P --- and I may even try to remember to clamp down the piece when power buffing so it doesn't fly across the room and crack...

    IMG_5639.thumb.JPG.df5b75f31b74e328e7d36441b927d4ad.JPG

    To mitigate this I'm thinking about making the front face of the teardrop have a sharp/semi-sharp point then a smaller, more rounded teardrop from the back--carving to an angled slope, maybe paint the inside black (does that make sense?).

    IMG_0098.thumb.jpg.371cdc2f01248dff5248b72003739482.jpg

     

  2. So with summer winding down I've officially started a bass build, pivoting from a guitar design I have. I was going to hold most of the pics & updates until I was close to finishing -- but I find that having updates to post and feedback to read keeps me working more consistently. In other words: I've been watch TV too much lately.

    Figured I push the difficulty a little more and try an angled heads (with scarf joint) and a truss access at the body. Was going to try a set neck, but maybe next time -- I chickened out on that. 

    So original design looked like: 
    301896999_ScreenShot2020-07-06at11_41_04AM.thumb.png.bc0cccce1e18780667dda4e03cbfe1cf.png

    But I've decided save the standard picks-ups for another bass project (something with a more traditional body design)  to go with a single pickup on this one:

    1424501793_ScreenShot2020-08-16at3_57_39PM.thumb.png.f3fa79c1a474f2459e26478589ae9ce5.png

    I got the neck materials - maple with a maple fingerboard, I got some walnut to make the teardrop fret markers.

    IMG_5766.JPG.1436cfa46ad1811bbbc9866d50a1ce30.JPG

    I resawed this maple, saving half for a guitar neck

    IMG_5767.JPG.abb56b6d92ad0b42f2e4d6157ea4f8f2.JPG

    IMG_0097.thumb.jpg.35b81f65b6439a3faf601c44061c4f6c.jpg

    Notice the head design is kinda squished in the 2nd design - I made a mistake on the scarf joint...I cut it short, leaving me about an 1.5 inches short on the head :(

    It was challenging cutting the angle. The 9 inch bandsaw didn't have enough clearance ...  and my tablesaw blade wasn't big enough to make a single cut and I wasn't sure I could cut 1/2 way then flip it over and cut the rest lining up the cuts. Seemed risky. So I got a Japanese pull saw and practiced a bit...worked great, until the actual job I needed it for (of course...)

    IMG_0062.thumb.jpg.1167269e5b4f6b4131693d6c8be61c28.jpg

    I couldn't keep it on the line, ending up with a crooked angle...

    IMG_0093.thumb.jpg.acca3229b41613cbab6e7522a58298f7.jpg

    But with a bunch of sanding I got it pretty good I think, almost ready to glue it up

    IMG_0093.thumb.jpg.acca3229b41613cbab6e7522a58298f7.jpg

     

    IMG_0095.thumb.jpg.c48d54097d93fce4843e26fdf0956162.jpg

    IMG_0096.thumb.jpg.67bb0b55c403bb40482d29498c156b50.jpg

     

    IMG_0094.jpg

    779741509_ScreenShot2020-08-16at3_58_58PM.png.35013de200c9ccd6fe6b8b3b2ff3fd47.png 1998906257_ScreenShot2020-08-16at3_59_09PM.png.59d0a48032611f49cff9226b2701d2fa.png

    ...not happy with this new shape and I'll most likely rework this a bit more once I get to actually cutting the shape. 

    Wish me luck, I'll need it!

    IMG_0063.jpg

    • Like 3
  3. On 3/20/2020 at 5:41 PM, Bizman62 said:

    AFA the headstock angle, if you're making a laminated neck do it as one piece as it's the strongest. On a one-piece neck a scarf joint is as strong as one piece. (Did that make any sense?)

    I've read that scarf joints are stronger than one piece ... due to the grain length If I understand what you're saying by "laminated neck" You mean a piece of laminate glue to face of headstock? Although I think that ship has sailed as I already re-sawed and planed the thick piece of maple I have so I can get 2 necks out of it (one guitar & one bass)

    IMG_5766.JPG.1436cfa46ad1811bbbc9866d50a1ce30.JPG 

    IMG_5767.JPG.abb56b6d92ad0b42f2e4d6157ea4f8f2.JPG

    On 3/25/2020 at 2:15 PM, Andyjr1515 said:

    Maybe you could consider moving the whole bridge/fretboard/nut an inch or so towards the tailstock?  I would have thought that would still give you decent fretting access to the top frets?

    Yes I would -- this is a good idea, I've decide to shorten that tail/body length too. Thanks to the idea!

    On 3/25/2020 at 3:57 PM, Bizman62 said:

    If you build several similar guitars weighing the neck and body separately will help uniforming the strap button locations.

    Some kind soul on here (sorry, not sure who) tipped me off on not really worrying too much about it until the build is finished (minus button installation)  then use duck tape and a rope to test different locations. Low tech, easy to adjust and worked like a charm!

    On 3/27/2020 at 11:44 AM, mistermikev said:

    is that olive or tamo ash?  on my 'someday' list for sure.  beauty against the turquoise. 

    Tamo is what I used for the mockup - got the grain pattern from some online picture. I like it very much but I think this'll depend on if my local lumberyard has it in stock & at a usable size. I'm open to something else as long as it's pretty.

    On 3/27/2020 at 11:44 AM, mistermikev said:

    I used shims between the platform to keep the fretboard level to the platform.  I clamp the neck to it  then just a 1/8" straight bit that follows the edge like a template.  probably other/better ways but it was easy and worked great for me.

    Excellent tip, thanks! So you do this after radiusing the fingerbard? Why not do it pre-radius and avoid the need for shims? 

    --Also I've refined the body dimensions, shorting overall length by just over inches. Originally the tail length was same as my previous builds but after playing them for a while I think this is unnecessarily long.

    26131921_ScreenShot2020-07-06at11_32_53AM.png.fe305900ef4f632c145e8132b50a8000.png

    And on top that I'm incorporating the orginal/longer design into a bass build. I've thickened up the horns a bit, lost most of  the contours and made a few other tweaks...but basically the same. My son took back the the only bass I had and I miss playing that more than I thought :)

    this is what I have so far with that idea:

    301896999_ScreenShot2020-07-06at11_41_04AM.thumb.png.bc0cccce1e18780667dda4e03cbfe1cf.png

    Since I already made cuts on neck materail maybe I should add this to the "in progress" forum :)

     

  4. 5 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

    That can be addressed by inlaying it.

    Good idea!

    Last night I did a deep search this and found a pretty cool implementation of this by Stephen Strahm Guitars out of California. Doing an image search I found an old Facebook post from 2012 mentioning it and then followed that to some pics deep in his gallery (on a guitar style he may not even build anymore - looks like mostly focusing on acoustics.)

    385237940_ScreenShot2020-06-18at2_56_50PM.thumb.png.e6d9838498e707bb144b3dbe9d4696fd.png

    While this is way cool, probably beyond by carving skills. I'm thinking of something more flush. But now I have something to strive for :)

    EDIT: Also this PG thread had some good information as well!

     

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