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ihocky2

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Everything posted by ihocky2

  1. ihocky2
    Are you sure the burst is done entirely with stain? Many bursts are done with the body stained with the lightest color and then the burst is built up with tinted lacquer or poly. If it is done in that method, it is basically impossible to remove all of te lacquer and save the burst.
  2. ihocky2
    First thing I would do is wipe it down with mineral spirits or naptha, while it's still moist you'll get an idea how it will loook with a finish on it. You might be able to get away with just applying your finish and being done with it. If that doesn't help much, I would try testing a scrap piece with some orange shellac. That should help to bring out the grain, and I personally like the way orange shellac really brings out the warmth of walnut. Then you can spray anything over shellac.
  3. ihocky2
    Not the greatest picture to show the color, so I am guessing that it is gun metal grey. If you are using spray cans I would check out Dupli-Color or PlastiKote and see if they make that color. Or check out Alsa Corp, they make 2-part poly in rattle cans, but it is expensive, and you'll need to stick with their system from start to finish. If you have a compressor and spray gun, find your nearest Dupont or PPG dealer, I'm sure they have a paint code for gun metal grey and can mix it for you.
  4. ihocky2
    I am not sure the normal speeds for buffers, but I think you would be okay at that speed. 3hp is not going to make it go any faster, it is just going to take a heck of a lot more to bog down the motor. Other question is, how may volts and how many phases does it run off, and can you supply that type of connection if needed. 3hp is nothing unheard of, but it does get into the range of higher voltages, and 2 or 3 phaseis not unheard of.
  5. ihocky2
    Nitro lacquer is going to be unlikely. Acrylic lacquer, yes. But more and more areas are banning nitro because of the large amounts of environmentally hazardous solvents it gives off. Not many companies make colored nitro lacquers anymore. I don't know of where you can get one other than mixing some pigment in lacquer and spraying and getting a Preval spray system.
  6. ihocky2
    It's no worse than hard maple and even some soft maple. Just very heavy. I finished a hollow body Tele that is only slightly lighter than my mahoganny strat.
  7. ihocky2
    Only thing you have to watch with Home Depot and the big chain stores, is there lumber tends to not be fully dried yet.
  8. ihocky2
    Most of the TOM bridges need to have a slot filed in for the string anyway, so you can adjust the radius buy how deep you file the grooves. But if you go more than half the diameter of the string it is a good idea to file a little off the top of the saddles. But I would only recomend this for minor change, 12" to 10" or 14" should be a problem, 10" or 16" might be okay. Going to a 7.25 would probably be too much.
  9. ihocky2
    Looking good Matt. I can't wait to see tha paint job, because I absolutely agree black is too over done. Too many people think that is has to be black to be evil and metal.
  10. ihocky2
    I like the back of the second one as well. The swirls got really nice, but the colors just remind me of too many Saturday nights worshipping the porcelain god.
  11. ihocky2
    I'll second the link Mike P posted. I think the price is about $5 higher now, but it works great.
  12. ihocky2
    You might get close to that with flat sawn zebrawood. The grain will probably be closer together, but similar.
  13. ihocky2
    Sounds like you just ran into a problem when you did your scale drawing to get the neck angle. Even with a recessed TOM you can get it too low that it is parallel to the frets. That's where you have to plan out the lowest you'll go with the bridge, an maybe add in a few 64ths extra just incase. If I have the angle set up for the lowest possible action, I can always raise it if the action is too low, but I can't lower it if it is low as possible and still too high.
  14. ihocky2
    I haven't done a V yet, but have been practicing the bevels on scrap for when I get around to one. I found using a rasp and then cleaning up with a hand plane works great.
  15. ihocky2
    Where is your area? I thought for the longest time my only choices were going to be Woodcraft and the internet. But then after some research I found a number of decent lumber mills. Try this website, just enter your zip code, and the species you are looking for, but omitting the species will get you more results, but they won't all have what you want. http://www.woodfinder.com/
  16. ihocky2
    Here is another option that one of the guys on the ReRanch forum uses. http://www.target.com/Whitmor-Supreme-Clot...;rh=&page=1 Hang the guitar from inside, and leave the door open just enough to stick your arm in.. Or if spraying outdoors, open, spray, then close most of the way, leave enough for fumes to escapes.
  17. ihocky2
    I have done all of mine outside, and it is extremely tough but you can get a good finish with them. I'll usually spray with the guitar hanging off my garage door and then right away move it inside the garage out of the wind or anything. But I make sure if I am spraying that it is a calm day, and not humid. I'll take the garden hose and spray down everything around me to help keep the dust down.
  18. ihocky2
    Mine would get up to the high 90's during the summer, all day sun exposure. But it also gets extremely humid if I don't control it, and even then it is too humid to spray during the summer.
  19. ihocky2
    Here's thi big problem I see with this. Most people are not going to want to commit to something like this for several reasons. I am sure you are looking to work some kind of partnerships deal, but where is the split. You'll want X% because without your design the builder would not have them and probably not be in the business. The builder will want X% because without his building talent, your designs would be nothing more than pretty pictures. And reaching an agreeable profit split will be very tough.
  20. ihocky2
    You'll notice though that Perry is using four lamps from different directions in a room/shed that the entire room rises in temp. I also just let time do it's thing, but I am sure Perry's type of set up would help things along. But the key is to heat everything evenly, and not one side at a time.
  21. ihocky2
    I don't think I would worry about breaking the piece down the middle as much since a good glue joint SHOULD be stronger than the actual wood. But my worry would be that with that many different species of wood for the fret board that you may find some expanding and contracting more than others, and end up with twisting.
  22. ihocky2
    Looking forward to the pictures. I just wanted to give a heads up before you got too deep into it. Even still deepending on where the first guy picked it up, the seller may not have known what they had. I have seen some guys get a huge steel on some guitars just because a pawn shop or the original owner had no idea what they had.
  23. ihocky2
    If you really want to see tha quality you are up against go to any music store and look at the finishes on any of the big name brands. A little time and patience and they are not hard to beat. My first guitar came out better than a $700 Fender Strat as far as flatness and polishing. I sprayed it with a candy color and that is where I lost it. My wife has only ever seen the guitars I have built up close and my Squier strat, when I went to get strings last time she looked at the Fender and pointed out to me how much flatter mine get. All it takes is patience and elbow grease. There really is no magic in the big name guitars other than marketing and CNC to make them so big.
  24. ihocky2
    One of the first things I would do before you go any further is go over to the Jackson/Charvel forum and find out some info about this guitar. Some of the old models can be worth a decent price that you will lose big time by trying to fix it up. You may very well get more money selling it as is then refinishing it. I mean a Japanese Charvel is not going to be near the same price as a San Dimas Charvel but the 750 usually commands a nice price and some of the Model series as well and they are Japanese. If you said it was for yourself, and your favorite playing axe in need of a face lift I would say go for it, but to just resell it, you are going to have a very tough time getting decent money for it. By the way, what model Charvel is it.
  25. ihocky2
    This is being made way more complicated than it needs to be. Take your nack and place it in the neck pocket or clamp it where it will be placed if the neck pocket is not routed yet. Measure 24" from the body side of the nut and draw a line perpendicular to the center line of the body. This is the position of your scale length. Set the bridge on the body so that the high E is on that line. That is where you place the bridge.
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