Xanthus

The carving of the bevels is more of a pain than the painting, because you can't stick the wood back on when you mess up You can adjust the curve of the tape before you spray, much easier. I did a mini-tutorial on carving the bevels on my V build. Check it for reference.

"I plan on upgrading the logo as well all the parts to Fender parts" ...but it'll still be a Squier guitar..... I feel that putting a nice new Fender sticker is almost like false advertising. Why not just give the sticker the same wear and tear as the rest of the body?

I'd be willing to help spam cleanup if necessary. I live on the forums more than I should as is BTW they really got us good a few days ago, hahaha. That was a fun time reporting all them.

(you really can't beat a nice piece of ash) You really made my night, Al! I got a right kick outta that one. Hope everything's going ok, what with the hospital situation and all. I like the look of this build; the pickups are pretty eclectic, and it adds a bit of quirkiness. Where'd you get a piece of ash with such tight grain? It almost looks quartersawn.

That IS a nice neck. Nice 7th fret marker

As the builder and owner of my very own Kinda-Rhodes-Shaped V, I say go for it. I love the look of the 3x3 headstock, too! I'm not sure how I feel about the painted bevels. The bevels on my Explorer gave me a ton of headaches, and I don't think I'd repeat that again. But if you think it looks good, go for it. What woods are you looking at? Might you be able to get a good looking natural color?

Just a quick update for you guys. I got the right switch, which actually feels better to press on than the old, so that's a plus. Installed it, and now I get that distinctive "tons of static until you touch the metal" tone. Sounds awesome! So I've been searching for a ground loop, can't find one. The search never ends. Maybe I'll get to play this bad boy sometime this month.

wooooooah. I dig it! I like the all-wood, and the body shape looks much more comfy than ESPs take on it.

I thought that normally closed was what I wanted, though, no? The circuit's closed, so the signal goes through. Cut the circuit to send it straight to ground. Hell, I dunno how the damn things work to begin with, so I probably have 'em backwards anyways. I'll try and find a replacement switch tomorrow. Thanks KP!

Man, where's that "slam head against wall" smiley face when you need it? So I'm wiring up Build #2 today, installing everything, and making it look pretty. And I install all the electronics and whatnot. And I just took it up to the room now to see if the electronics work (no strings on it yet, sadly), and the thing is totally silent on the overdrive channel. Sahweet! Awesome wiring job, shielding, no ground loops, go me! Pat yourself on the back! Then I check the killswitch, and my sound comes on. I let the switch go.... and the sound goes dead. So I actually installed a liveswitch by mistake. wiring scheme switch used. SPST NC So there are two reasons for this. One: Either I wired wrong. Two: I bought the wrong switch. Either is possible. Either way it's not a huge deal and something that I can fix tomorrow. Does anyone have a clue what it is? I'm a total electronics n00b.

Thanks for the measurements, Todd! That is an excellent idea I never thought of, screwing a veneer between the bridge and body.

But of course I have. I was planning on either getting a fretboard from StewMac (rounded the measurement up to 1/4" just to be safe) or commissioning a neck. Taking into account fret height and action, I'd be looking at a 15/32" max saddle height, taking the measurements from my old Carvin. The .125" Hipshot bridge would be just a hair under this number, and I always like to have a LITTLE bit of wiggle room, just in case.

Oooh wow, walnut pickup rings would be awesome!!! I dunno if your pickups are flat on the bottom, but if they are, you could stack the two, screw them into a piece of walnut, and use them as a router template. That'd save some time, definitely.

Yeah, that's why I'd rather not do a wraparound. Also, buying a strat would let me switch it out fairly painlessly with a Kahler if I decide to do so, later on. I dunno which bridge you're referring to, Mick. Warmoth has the 475 and 756. The 756 is an all-in-one TOM /tail with fine tuners. Very cool, but I don't feel like recessing it, or spending that much So I'm assuming you're talking about the 475 hahaha. Would I have to buy it direct from Schaller? Wamoth doesn't say anything about a removable baseplate. I've been toying with the idea of just making my own base and buying some saddles to fit BlackMachine-style. But I'm not that confident in my woodworking abilities yet.

It....... might be? The best measurement I can go off of is the bridge height itself, which is listed as .437" on the StewMac site. I'm assuming the saddles go higher than the bridge height, but how much is the question. The Hipshot 1/8" bridge has a max string height of .46", so I'm guessing that because the two numbers are so close together, the Gotoh bridge is the same height as the Hipshot. Hmm.... I might just try and find a cool wraparound TOM in black, even though I'd rather not have to recess the bridge....... In any case, thanks for the responses, guys!

Hey all, this is a quick one. I'm trying to find out the height (saddle max and min) for this here bridge. The Gotoh website is being less-than-helpful, and I can't find any manuals or diagrams on it either. I like my fretboard to sit about 1/8" or so off the body, with the fretboard on top (clearly ), and I don't think this bridge will get me there. The .175" Hipshot bridge will, but Stewmac doesn't sell it, and I don't feel like paying $90 on a bridge. I'm not a bass player Any help'd be greatly appreciated. In other news, the V is done, and I'll be assembling tomorrow! Super pumped!

I've got a couple things to add meself: *Bang-up job on the color! It's an awesome "faded denim" look, if I could name it myself. *Matching the front and back, wood/color wise looks great! The maple and walnut really go well together *Not a huge fan of the headstock, personally. Definitely the inlay, though, being a sucker for Celtic designs, not to mention a Celt myself *I like the bridge you picked. I VERY rarely like that particular design, but I think because the top is so light it really goes well together. *Speaking of the light top/chrome hardware, spend the extra few $$$ and get some chrome pickup rings You seem to have quite a few pro tools kicking around the shop. Are you thinking of maybe making this more of a hobby? If this build is pretty indicative of your quality, then go for it!

I also had a bevel to help me out with A 1/4" roundover might not be a bad idea. It'll add comfort all-around, too.

I think it looks pretty sweet! I also have learned to trust my robosander more than the router. And as another plus, it's great for shaping volutes on angled headstocks, and conversely must be great for Fender curves on straight headstocks.

It's most likely sponge painted. Reminds me of this from Perry. Rumor has it he used some sort of crackle paint and saran wrap.

DROOOOOOOOL Thanks Andy. I'm getting my late paycheck tomorrow at work, and you've given me a lot to think about Now all those extra synth modes sound incredibly interesting. Why can't any guitar shop actually carry the INTERESTING stuff?

I used 3M scratch remover after fine-sanding to 2000 and it came out great for me. ::EDIT:: Yeah, what kpcrash said, we seemed to have cross-posted. I walked away from the computer

http://s11.invisionfree.com/Stringed_Instr...pic=16&st=0 M_A_T_T is also a member on our own forums. I bookmarked the thread because I also was curious at how to do an undertaking like that, in all my free time.

My only advice is you'd be surprised at what you get rid of when you do the final sanding. I had a similar problem with my V, and my mistake was gone by the time I was done.

It's quirky, I like it! The metal tail and wooden bridge seem to clash, imo. But the color on that pine is nice!