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low end fuzz

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Everything posted by low end fuzz

  1. not a controlled wood on the the world market; but our countries trade agreements tax the sh!t out of stuff like that; i smuggelled 4 tops of zirocote and cocobollo taped under my seat into ontario; because when i tried to bring some burl over they told me i have to go to some natural resource desk or some crap and pay like 200$; so i just left it there; BS or not, im not going thru that crap again
  2. right on man! i hear people say they dont bother making templates for single time builds because its like doing the same thing twice! that makes me sick; instead they do a sh!t job and make excuses for the rest of theyre life saying its 'hand built' i call it hack jobs; just because your routes are clean and straight dosent mean you cheated or wasted your time; i bet you could cut out and sand a neck templte out of mdf and route your wood faster than doing it all freehand following a piece of tape
  3. being that sg's are characteristicly warm sounding (due ti the mahog) and your using quite bright woods; i would go with the pickup right close to the the fingerboard; in an attempt to darken up the tone; on the other hand you could run with the brightness and throw it right next to the bridge; but i would buy another hb to throw in it; even if it is a 30$ junker its all about the options; and if it plays nice; when you get some more money your willing to spend, all you got to do is drop the new one in; no hassle; on that same thought its almost worth routing it out and leaving it empty; just a thought
  4. oh and if it IS maple; you shouldnt be able to see pores? wernt wizard necks made outta bubinga or sumtin?
  5. well, what is the brand you are using? the problem w/ ''tung oil'' is that theres a lot of things called tung oil 'real' tung oil (china) has a very sweet(?) smell and takes weeks/ months to tottally cure; then the minwax stuff which is actually varnish that has been diluted so much to make it able to be wiped on and cure fast; ive used it on necks too and ive had no big problems; but if you did use one of these 'fake' oils, the problem might be that being varish, it just sits on the wood and wears instead of penetrating and sealing deep in the wood; a good test for oil is to make a puddle in a dish and stick a tall cut off in it; leave it in there a day or so; if it is oil; the oil will travel all the way up thru the grain to the top; and it wont harden for quite a while
  6. i think there are reffering to the knot having adverse expasion and other movements that may need more maintenance than a nice quartered ''feature free' fretboard; which i would agree with as purely a preventative measure
  7. what i do is; (with a rgular bullet style end) is flush the adjuster to the bottom of the fretboard; with any left over space under the fb i epoxy in some ebony or blackwood, and but it up to the bottom of the rod (this is w/the adjuster at the heel) just so it dosent get pushed up; and so its not an empty space; i also feel that nothing is going to happen to the 1st 5" of the neck that any truss rod could fix; hpoe that helps
  8. no, thats cool; im the same way; but i would suggest mineral spirits or even water over any kind of oil, for a preview; when oil starts getting around (especially a work in progress) bad things happen
  9. Yeah sorry, I'm having a hard time wording it. Does anybody have a template of the pattern of the bevel on an SG? i would use a big chamfer bit; and i would have a block from the table up to stop where you dont want the cut off; as far as a pattern for this; go look at an sg and get the basic idea and create; if you want an exact duplicate, go buy one
  10. it is certainly a nice clean build; but i have 2 beefs; i 'personally' dont like the half n half bodies; i dunno;that just me; but why would you start to finish with oil (or anything) before everything was glued together? has this worked in the past? unless you have super fantastico glue skills the wings will not be a 'perfect flush' when theyre glued and will require at least a level sand to confrm it to one piece; the other thing that bothered me was the oil; oils soak into the wood ; which means theres gonna be oil aong your gluing surface ; that will hinder a strong glue joint; and if none of that bothers you; when you clamp your wings on using any method (aside from some kind of vacuum) theres is gonna be damage that needs to be sanded out; even cauls leave littl marks/dents but i do really like the overall design of the bass
  11. i dont know about the BM stuff; but Royal City paints is where i get my stuff now; and it is faaaantastic!
  12. learn how to do it properly ;ie tutorials (theres one in the 'tutorial' section believe it or not) or get someone to do it for you (that your not going to badmouth and jip'em after you screw up something they've done for you) and you might want to round those sharp edges off your veneer ; safety first!!
  13. i played a ken smith in T.O. prolly about a year ago; it looked very nice; it was all; exept stringers; made from culry maples; body soft and neck hard; im asumming; this thing had no sound; it was like plucking an elastic under water very dissapointing, but never really a fan to start; but alot of his stuff is purty
  14. speak for yourself; hard N.ash is like 3 times the weight of swamp; if you cant tell the difference between 2 boards of ash.... theyre prolly the same type!
  15. Sprayed 2 coats on the second coated the paint blistered up in some areas, Any clues as to why? I guess I'll have to strip the whole thing again and start over. One good thing is once the laquer was put on the color became much more noticable and the snakeskin effect all the more noticable. I'll post part 3 of this project as i more forward with it. holy crap! someone messed up, and instead of crying blaming products and compounding mistakes , theyre gonna eat it and start over! i think this is something that every new builder on here should look at; it sucks things didnt go as originally planned; but your doing the right thing; and you got the right ideas for making it right; hats off
  16. if you cant finish it ; how do you ..... finish it? do you mask it off, or do you just spray it and flake it off? if you scuff it and it dosent have silicone or oils why wouldnt a film finish stick; i know; ask larry; but i'll try this first
  17. as i think its a baaad idea; Furlanetto and spicer from fbass told me quartersawn northern ash is perfectly fine for necks; i dont recall if they got into any specific instrument or lengths; but this was a point they made that really bugged me for a long time; i just think its grain is too inconsistant with reaqlly deep pores; but padauk pores are really wide too; so i dont know what to beleive ; but....... i wouldnt do it!
  18. i htink your on the right track; i dont know how your not satisfied with a 1200 sand out; maybe the water IS adversly affecting the outcome you hoped for; like sheen on bare wood needs to be scratched so maybe the wet sanding is too fine and showing up previous scratches (that are still very small) if this happened to me i would sand up to like 1000-1200 w/o water, just quikly buff it; then do a crazy number like 1500, but try wetting it with lemon oil or mineral spirits; something that you should either put on when its done (lemon oil) or something that will evaporate completly (mineral spirits) but if your looking for a 'mirror' shine , you might have to go the way of epoxy and buff it out like laquer; lets see some pics
  19. the pics loaded fine for me ; and it is crazy!!!
  20. im with you! they may not be 'knots'; but that disruption in the grain is not 'prefered' in your fingerboard;but part of building your own is to stray from 'standards' i prefer straight grained anything in fb; but even ive gone way beyond that for the sake of looks!
  21. i second that; a veneer on the top is bad enough if your not pro from sanding thru; but when its a support issue; id be very careful; plus to get it perfectly flat when there isnt anything underneath could be a problem; this reminded me of a guitar a "friend" of mine built, where "he" didnt have a router; so "he" built a 'plywood' style guitar by cutting out everything in levels proir to glueup; i htink it was 7 layers; the neck pocket was cut out of the top four layers; the pickup out of the top three and the control cavity out of the bottom 6; did it all with a jigsaw drill and some files; and sandpaper..............alot of sandpaper
  22. you cant teach anything to someone who knows everything already i think this thread should be stickyed, to inspire people to take their time and plan.
  23. can someone send me an emoticon for, shaking head in disbelief while laughing but crying at the same time about the utter ridiculous abandomnent of common sense, and the exhibition of pride for poor judgement and overall sloppy painful display of ''work''(?) maybe you should of started with an all plywood guitar instead making plywood from a solid piece of beech; well at least your not wasting any kind of endangered or relatively nice wood; i hope those chicks of yours are blind and have no arms; cause if they see or feel this thing ;your not gonna see or feel anything of theirs!
  24. thats what i was saying; but i could see running into definate position problems; espcially with that first pickup sooo close to the (undersized) neck pocket
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