Prostheta

Actually, I would hold off on any remedial work until you figure out how you're dealing with the perpetrator. He could easily wash his hands of the problem if you attempt any work on it yourself. I would take it to another repair guy and ask for a second opinion on what it is. Don't drop names, just ask for an honest opinion. Even competing techs don't stab each other in the back much. No more than twice a day, so go in the morning. Early.

You're my new hero, man. Combining some of my favourite things. My hat is off to you.

Wow, if this is what happened then the dude really dropped the ball on this one after trying to pick the ball up from dropping it in the first place. Although ultimate blame is difficult to prove, he should have insurance which should cover a full repair or compensation. A $1500 guitar is still a LOT of cash and a third of the cost of a $4500 guitar. Look at your options and consider seeking legal advice if you cannot work this out satisfactorily with the repair guy. There comes a point where you shouldn't have to consider compounded repairs which don't actually do what was agreed upon. You really need to be able to prove that it was your repair guy though. Things can get ugly really quickly in these situations....especially when numbers like "$1500" get thrown around after a repair which maybe cost a tenth of that and netted the repair guy maybe a hundredth in profit.

Quite a polarised opinion here :-D

Welcome and a great story posted! I've never tried it myself, however I will no doubt try it one day.

Funny how people mis-associate pickup output with instrument output. A nice cool pickup (PAF clones are the classic example of course) juiced up a little by a pre-amp kicks far more arse than an excessively overwound overly inductive copperball (there's a name you can have if you want it) banged up to the gills with ceramic mags. Overwound pickups have their place of course, but it's difficult to find good ones that aren't one trick ponys. Still, people will think what they're told to by the marketing wash. Good to hear that you are freeing people from The Matrix, RAD. Perhaps you need a pickup model called "The Rabbit Hole" or "The Red Pill".

The post font size has been chosen for the purposes of readability, plus the presence of whitespace is also an important tool in improving general legibility and correctly leading the eye to information. I haven't seen problems with random emboldening - this is likely an HTML rendering issue in your browser.

I would say that the size of the stripes are about 6mm, an 6mm gap and a 23mm central stripe. The stripe is about 45-47mm edge to edge. You will find it extremely difficult to get exact measurements because of the relatively small size of reference area and low quality image. I would be surprised if you could get any better than this unless this is somehow a "standard" size of racing stripe. Please make any donations to Project Guitar :-) http://www.projectguitar.com/arc/donate.htm

That is positively horrorworthy! Usually red comes out pink unless the wood underneath is warm. Subscribed.

I think you are talking about the difference between Reed & Prince and Phillips.R&P has a sharper tip than a phillips. But that isn't it.I have a complete set of every type and size of screwdriver,and the Dunlop Straplocks are a #2 Phillips tip.The problem is that the round head is shallow and doesn't allow for enough torque to drive the super long Straplock screw with it's aggresive threads into harder woods like ebony.I usually go up a size in drill bits for harder woods,but the entire body is mahogany(not so hard) and I didn't think about the ebony heel I put on the neck...second time around I went up a size and it worked fine. in today's world of outsourcing every damn thing all across the world you really have to have every possible type of screwdriver... It was my fault for not thinking of the ebony. Couldn't agree more. I grew sick of driving in the actual screw using a head I thought was appropriate only to find it would skip once or whatever and ruin the screw's plating. I started driving in plain scrap screws (usually ones with ruined plating, surprisingly) that just matched the thread to cut instead. I thought that a sweet toolset addition to have would be a set of taps that fitted into a hex-mating screwdriver, then headslaprealised that a tap can just be chucked up instead. A waxed dress screw being fitted into a properly tapped hole is a thing of beauty.

Well, I remember seeing that one on the bay when it was listed and thought it might be a task and a half. Glad it turned out to be a bargain and not as much work as could have been expected. I actually saw another one listed a little earlier than this one which had an awful paintjob plus 2in or so of the top of the headstock cut straight off! I thought of bidding low just to try and scarf/string a new piece in and give it a proper repaint, but back then I didn't have a guarantee of access to the paint facilities I do now. Perhaps I should pick up this CSB idea again. It's a pretty classy shape all round really.

Looking good, but how does she sound now all the weight of the Dulux has been shed? Shame that it is probably more work than it is worth to refresh the lacquer. I've been meaning to draw up the carved top version of this in CAD to make a set of pin router templates. Have you see the Black n' Gold version of this?

Topic locked. Signature size/content information to be posted in general forum FAQ.

Ah, those are new. Only a week old and I've been using them more than anyone else....! The old clamps are in the warehouse and I keep forgetting to try and snag them. Now those are dirty and caked in glue!

Haha....I agree about the crazy metalwork on the bridges! I just hope you keep your fingers all in one place. Great design....it looks like you might actually leverage access all the way to the top frets with that disturbing shape. Cherry neck, eh? I'm not too familiar with it myself - what is it comparable to?

Okay, so today I slotted the board before cutting it to the adjusted taper. With splintery woods like Wenge, cutting the slots first before tapering is a better strategy otherwise it is far to easy to blow wood out from the ends. Of course, this can also happen when tapering a slotted board...! So anyway. After adjusting the taper from 45.0mm-(2x 2.5mm) at the nut to 75.0mm-(2x 2.5mm) at the 24th fret I glued Wenge strips cut from another board either side of the board to hide the fret slot ends. Although the grain matches it is not completely invisible, although this wasn't really the intention. This is a prototype practice model after all. Here is the fingerboard in the clamps. The two pieces of scrap wedged between the cauls concentrate the pressure on the lower half of the cauls: After the glue had fully set up, the excess was scraped off and the lower faces of the binding strips scraped flush to the fingerboard with a cabinet scraper. The whole fingerboard was then thrown through (well as fast as about 40mm/sec can be called "throwing") the thickness sander to bring the top half flush with a couple of quick (well, not quick) passes on the underside also. Turns out the last person to use the thickness sander had junked up the belts with some white crap: The fingerboard was glued up to the neck and trimmed back on the pin router when dry: Next week I plan on cutting the neck pocket into the body for a quick test fit and to mark out the heel prior to carving. Good times. Now where is that 24mm Forstner bit to cut the jack socket channel? Grr.

Keep building! ;-)

I'm looking forward to seeing how the inlays "reveal" when you radius the fingerboard. The Rosewood dust could contaminate the Maple part of the inlays however, so bear this in mind. Scraping the inlays with a burr turned on a craft knife blade might help with this somewhat.

Ah, I might have had one of those if you'd ship to the EU. Could I get Parcel2Go to collect instead?

I'm afraid I can't quote or vouch for any specific books on acoustic instrument making apart from these obscure old ones I have. I believe that sites like LMI might actually stock the major definitive reference and instructional books. Most of them are known by the writer's surname which often says a lot....like "the [bob] Flexner book" on finishing.... Building the soundbox on an acoustic is like building a mousetrap or a wound-up clock and expecting it to stay in a relatively stable state unlike an electric which is for the most part a blob or the technical term, "wodge" of wood. A soundbox is a taut compound bow. A house of cards. An architectural wonder.

I think quoting our illustrious former admin - Kevan - would be appropriate. "Let's show the internet how it's done"

Good call on the Hipshots, plus I agree 100% about the headstock tieing in with the body. The only thing I think that doesn't is that the body is softer on the edges because of the roundover, whereas the headstock is tight and sharp. I doubt that a roundover on the edge parallel to the tuners would work though. Gah. You're making me want to build an Explorer or a V now. Oh daaaym you....!!! Goddamn you all to hell!!! I see your immaculate lawn is making another appearance. It's become somewhat of a forum regular.

I hope to try my hand at acoustics within the next year or so. The big issue is in the amount of jig/template planning and building I will need to do. It is certainly not something that can just be picked up, especially when you are unaware of the sheer amount of work that goes into one. Try your local library for a few books on the subject. It is somewhat difficult to offer positive advice when the questions asked do not truly explain the extent of the subject. Electrics are certainly cheaper and easier to build if that is the information you were seeking. Whether one knows how to perform brain surgery or not, we know it is not a pushover! Acoustics are not brain surgery by a long way thankfully, however they do require a completely different set of disciplines and knowledge to "simple" electric guitar building. I think Melvyn Hiscock published a book on acoustic recently. If it is as accessible and friendly as his solidbody book I can recommend it thoroughly. There are several other books on the subject also which I am sure will be listed and written about in the upcoming site update....