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Prostheta

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Everything posted by Prostheta

  1. £5 is about $10. John Ockenden is selling neck-through blanks of Ovangkol at £17 ($35?). http://www.ockenden-timber.co.uk/timber/45...rneckblanks.htm One of those is going to be mine this month I reckon.
  2. Agreed about the excessive roundover. It looks a lot more "ESP-ey" with a tighter edge radius. Looking sharp!! That piece of wood at the top of the neck pocket looks very odd. It doesn't extend that far out on my bolt-on LTD EXP, it kind of peters out mid 19th/20th fret.
  3. I can source Ovangkol over here in the UK, and it's what I plan on making the necks of my eight-string guitars from, both neck-through and bolt-on. Will be interesting hearing the tone in that respect....
  4. Oh totally. It's the difference between "in theory" and "in practice" :-D
  5. Gonzo, that's a great post - thank you! I play five-string bass through my Trace Elliot AH-300 head and a 4x10 cab, and the sound a lot clearer and works better with the kit when you reduce the 40Hz and 80Hz bands by a greater degree. Those frequencies cover the fundamental notes, but the upper EQ define the harmonic overtone character of the sound. I agree totally. I love my compressors. The one that gets whacked around at gigs is a simple Boss FX-82 Bass Compressor, although the one I prefer for a little more "grind" is my Electro-Harmonix Black Finger. Shame it needs an extra wall wart and can't be used anywhere near wet things due to the tubes. Very protective of that one. Xanthus, I LOVE the Infinity and would kill or at least bite something repeatedly to have one with a natural flamed top....
  6. I would personally have left finishing until the last minute, especially after fretting as you may find the neck profile needs adjusting to your taste, or the face of the heel may need fine tuning once you add hardware into the equation (especially with a neck angle). At least you can sand through the oil if you have to do this. The heel looks great, BTW - which seems like a really sad thing to be noticing as a third party :-\
  7. I would leave the oil a little longer - I know it's the weekend and all :-\
  8. Well, I would go for the $50 tech unless you're taking in a high quality instrument - no offence! You just won't get the return. A quick bit of basic fretwork which any decent tech can do will make all the difference.
  9. No, they ship from the US to Europe however. (they're not based in the UK) :-D
  10. As near as damnit. Frets are generally spaced an equal fraction of the distance from the previous fret to the bridge point so capo'ing reduces the apparent scale length but maintains fret proportions. Just measure 30" up a 34" scale bass to a fret, capo behind it and viola (heh) you have a reduced scale instrument. Capo at 12th and you have a 17" scale instrument! IMO, playing on the 0.070" gauge D over 30" is what i'll call the the top end of gauges for a baritone's low F# string.
  11. Try capo'ing a longer scale instrument like a 35" scale bass at the 3rd fret. The D string is about a gauge 0.070 on a "standard gauge" set, which is what I would call pretty heavy for an F# on a 30" scale instrument. Fret distance will be roughly the same also. Suck it and see.
  12. Lemon oil is rubbish unless you're cleaning gunk off a fretboard. Condition with linseed. Virtually all of my guitars have various types of rosewood boards and they have all benefitted from a degunk with lemon oil, ragging clean and a very very light oiling. I can't stress LIGHT enough however....unless you want a tacky board that gunks up like hell :-D
  13. Possibly not. I would end up binding the neck and headstock in that case though...this is where personal taste becomes all the more subjective!
  14. Oh man, that table router just looks plain *deadly*. I hope you made your worst enemy do that work Byron man.
  15. I've made a 30" scale eight-string for which I am using a .068 on the F#. It intonates well and isn't unmanageable. Those extra 4.5" inches above standard do count.
  16. My oblique angle two-pence: Did you bevel the fret slots before fretting? This may explain the cause of a high fret or several high frets. I would consider this for future builds so this issue doesn't recur. Are the frets seated properly? You might have a loose fret that pops when the fretboard compresses slightly under tension from the strings, but drops back into the seat easily when unstrung.
  17. Was that the body going on eBay a couple of moons back? I was thinking of snagging that myself.
  18. I was thinking of tapering the central laminates in the necks i'm building this summer, but since i'm topping and tailing two necks from each glued up block, it wouldn't work of course :-\ Still, it's a VERY good method for laminate tapers unless you don't have a thickness planer/sander in which case you would have to build a large router sled jig or whatever.
  19. That's a similar idea to how I was going to respray our car in terms of the "pop" finish under a translucent tinted clear. We were going to go for fine gold/orange metallic flake under a candy-type dark cherry red. Black/red under ambient light, but popping to rich bright red under reflected light. Pretty much the same theory works with chatoyance in woods....I think using tinted lacquer to burst as opposed to running stains all over the shop maintains the 3D figuring more than as not, as i've found that stains seem to bring down the figures reaction to moving in light. I've fallen out of favour with staining to be honest, as I always feel I lose some of that wow-factor from having seen the wood's figure au naturale after a quick sand and scrape :-\
  20. Old thread, but I was looking for info on Ovangkol (going to make a neck-through build with some) and thought i'd chime in that LMII now sell gold fretwire. Probably not the same formulation as the Warwick stuff, although I believe the Bass Centre in the UK sell the Warwick fretwire as an accessory.... 'pologies for the old bumperoonie.
  21. www.ockenden-timber.co.uk/timber/electricguitarblanks.htm John will be listing bookmatched tops very soon, so I will update this thread as new items are added! Currently Ovangkol and Padauk body blanks.
  22. Wenge-effect. Damn, you could have made some nice patchwork bodies out of that if it were real :-D
  23. I hope you don't get chippings and dust in your cat litter trays, Wez....! I love the pinstripe accents between the top and bottom....very nice touch in the thicknesses! Is it too late to suggest gloss black? :-D
  24. The best ESP I ever owned (custom shop Mirage) had an alder body. I miss that baby. I really really lost out big on that one and will horsewhip myself from here to eternity for selling it. Boo. Keep us posted Gary - always a pleasure to see things progressing.
  25. I love my spokeshaves. One Stanley spokeshave with a flat face, and a cheap convex faced spokeshave. The cheap one required a lot of adjustment and fettling to bring it up to spec, but for the price it was worth it. The Stanley is okay, and meets my needs and works well. Perhaps expensive spokeshaves would be better, but to meet the purpose mine are fine. I regard them as a "coarse" tool to get close to where the finer tools like papers and scrapers excel.
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