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Prostheta

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Everything posted by Prostheta

  1. I would add at least one laminate to the neck to guarantee yourself more strength although I suspect that it would make a good neck material, as I've been told it's properties are similar to mahogany. Anyone care to confirm this? In general, laminating your neck is a good idea anyway as it makes for better stability in the long run. All depends if you're hiding or showing the back of the neck in a natural or solid colour :-)
  2. Equally (if you prefer) you can cut down the through neck tenon to make a set neck tenon. Useful if the entire tenon doesn't allow you to pull up an angle over the body, or you prefer to make the body as one complete entity as opposed to stuck on wings ;-) I was considering doing this with the neck tenon I bought from Stewmac (nasty sidemarkers!) but chickened out. Oopsy!
  3. Indeed. I wish your business the best of takeoffs - the least of which I can offer would be my repeated business of course :-)
  4. I'll make it up to you in future business and the reassurance that this bass (and your bass too) is/are going to be special ;-) I think as far as time management goes, you can't just suddenly manage it - you see where time has been lost and work around it in future. I'm still kicking myself for there only being 24 hours in the day. I'm sorely tempted to buy those two bloodwood laminates you've listed, but I think my work depleting the world's stocks of bloodwood are done for this week. Somebody else will most probably get better use out of them whilst I work on this bass.
  5. Anyone local to me can always pop down and I'll thickness plane and/or joint wood for em :-)
  6. ...and that is appreciated much more than the several hundred dollars worth of body blanks ;-)
  7. I love my jointer. I know it was expensive, but having the tools to work with (as opposed to outsourcing) makes you much more aware of what they can do, and that also makes you more creative and ambitious in your thinking, ultimately showing in your work. Talking of black tuners, I replaced the pegs on my Washburn D42-SCE with ebony pegs and it looks awesome. Something has to be said about black binding and black pegs.
  8. I think this makes call for a social engineering thread on befriending local companies with "the gear" ;-) Call for a How-To guys? A lot of the companies hereabouts aren't your home business types, so finding your way past the "business face" around to the back door where the real people work is more difficult. I guess as far as one-piece bodies go, I think there is something to be said for making two-piece bodies in that you have a guaranteed centreline to work with. I don't really dwell in the land of "glue line = tone killer", more "neat tricks = happy builder". I might even go as far as
  9. A jointer is a power planer with an adjustable fence which allows you to plane at an angle to one of the existing faces. In your case, you would clamp your maple back face to face ("unbookmatching!") and run the gluing edge over the jointer, keeping the large face tight to the fence. The planer (if set up well) will give you a perfect 90° planed face you can glue. I also use the jointer to true up wood for body blanks, thin out neck laminates (after attaching to other pieces of wood for safety!) and true up the top face of necks ready for adding the fretboard.
  10. I would do that after thickness planing anyway as I deem them to be "coarse" tools which shouldn't be relied on to work less than 1/16" from the final cut, so to speak. One incidence of tearout and the piece needs to be worked around or scrapped! I prefer to thickness plane, and if possible get a better levelling cut from the jointer before hand sanding same as yourself. Same results, all said and done. I just spend more on the tooling as I have less time to put in the elbow grease! You beat me to the mark there Setch - that is a great jig man. I just wish I had more space in the works
  11. I don't use my router to achieve anything closer than 1/8" to "real size" now because of tearout (plus, I'm too lazy to figure out which directions to rout to avoid tearout!). I prefer to trace around templates with a 1/8" tip marker, bandsaw to the outside of the line and spindle sand to the inside of the line.
  12. Apologies if the humour went awry there ;-) It's always an irking thing for my wife. Anyway. Hand painting and stencil sounds like a good plan because you're guaranteed to get the real deal as opposed to something that emulates it near as damnit. I'd use acrylics myself as well, especially the non-toxic waterbased ones such as the ones Games Workshop used to sell (I'm not a customer BTW). When I did loads of painting (wow, it's like, 17yrs now....) with those, you'd generally find me sucking the paintbrush in my mouth and excess paint wiped on the back of my left hand. Saliva doesn't aff
  13. Huddersfield is a little further afield from us down here in Lincoln (I'm a Hull lad though). You can always pop down to use my jointer if you need to true up your boards :-)
  14. That's lovely quilt for sure Al man. I love wide quilt as opposed to tighter waves.
  15. I really do wish I didn't keep giving myself router tearout problems on the guitars I want to finish naturally so I could do that :-( Never seen that Strat design before - looks pretty cool since it's on raw wood.
  16. Indeed. A very interesting possibility, and it seems easier than cutting an acute angle into wood perpendicular to a narrow face. Well, at least for me it is. I presume that given some good thought into the mechanical stability of any joints in that area, the possibilities are endless!
  17. Interesting Setch...how would that work exactly?
  18. I hope you didn't waste a project or made scrap because of the join. Keep us posted on how your scarf joint work goes! Always good to watch progress.
  19. Heh ;-) Does vinyl accept sanding sealer over it nicely? I would worry about the edges not "building up" and getting knocked off when it's sanded. The graphic looks like the wood underneath is showing through. Perhaps using a similar technique, but using water slide decals? I bought some awesome inkjet printer friendly waterslide transfer paper from a US eBay seller for a couple of quid which you "seal" after printing with lacquer. It might be possible to sanding sealer the body, apply transfers and add further layers of sanding sealer or clearcoats.
  20. Jigsaws follow surface plane material you're cutting, and since the blade is under no tension at the bottom of it's movement you'll quite easily cut too far into convex curves and not enough into concave as the blade eases out of the curve at the bottom slower than the top. All I can say is to cut slowly and surely else the blade will take it's own path and angle. A bandsaw relieves this tension somewhat and produces better results as the tension is kept above and below the cutting point. Oh yes: + wooha on the bandsaw!! make sure it's set up well and you have a new best wife.
  21. Your best source is behlen.co.uk as most of the products are the same as what Stewmac supply. Oh yes, I got a disciplinary and post deletion just for being humourous about the difference between Finnish and finish. My wife is Finnish and it gets tedious when we see it being mis-spelled. I'm sure you appreciate the idiosynchracies of humour being "UK-ish". I got a b*l****ing. Obviously Yorkshire humour isn't transcontinental. Where in the UK are you from? If you're local, maybe I or some local denizens could help out.
  22. Surface glueing area on a scarf joint is so much larger than a straight 90­° fit....
  23. Nah, two s**gs and a Washburn acoustic will pay that off nicely.
  24. Gold hardware for definite. You'll feel like you've spent some money for some reason then ;-) Hell, I think it looks awesome cool.
  25. Get a small piece of plastic (or something that will hold it's form) the same front profile size as your TOM and use a piece of string and a pencil to draw a 16" wide circle (attaching it to something larger helps). You will now have a perfect guide to adjust your saddle string height radius at the bridge. Just string 'er up and raise the height of your TOM so that the first and sixth strings are "at height". Use a file to increase the slot size in the saddles of the 2nd/3rd/4th/5th strings by lifting them out and taking them down a bit at a time till they touch your radius template. Remember
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