Page_Master

well i have seen them before, and i live in Australia, so where ever you are, i am as sure a hell you could find these things. Epiphone make these little travel electric guitars. i saw them at a Gibson dealer. they are quite small, may be a bit too small for a 7 year old, but i still have fun playing them. they are a little bigger than 1'. hope this helps.

i say road trip it dude. you can pick up some peyote buttons on the way. [i'm not even sure if that is the right desert]

wow Derek, i couldn't of said it better myself.

ok, thanx Perry. i know a place locally that does just that.

that's one beautiful bass, i'd imagine it sounds great too. i bet you that clock won't sound great though.

i want a thin clear poly finish on my guitar, but i have no access to good spraying equipment like a compressor and spray gun. as i don't have many choices what are the pros and cons of can spraying poly - does it take ages to harden and does it look decent? has anyone used prevals before? and is it possible to get a finish equivalent to a guitar manufacturer by brushing on poly varnish as apposed to spray poly?

keep these 2 words in mind for your next project: Graph Tech - http://www.graphtech.bc.ca/ you know, there was this really excellent nut slotting tutorial on www.stewmac.com but i can't seem to find it anymore. sorry!

hi everybody i only just found these things on www.wdmusic.com and about time i say. i don't know if anyone [or everyone] else knows they exist, since i have been MIA for nearly 2 months. so i thought i might give everyone a link to where to get them: http://wdmusicproducts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?

looks great dude! an excellent choice of woods, pickups and finish.

can you stain wood before you use the CA or epoxy method of grain filling? or would filling the grains with grain filler then stain be more apropriate?

wow! the fretlight guitar is a pretty swanky idea. tonally i think it would sound... different to normal guitars, but still, pretty swanky! it sucks that they don't have a metal guitar [25.5" scale, 24 fret, 2 hums - 81's, TOM bridge, Mahogany body] version, but i think it would be a really great as learning guitar - well that's all i would use it for. but in the future i think they will make 22, 24 fret models in either 24.75", 25" and 25.5" scale. i think it would be cooler if they just made it in fretboard form so you could just rip off the fretboard on your current guitar, route what ever <if you had too> route out and then glue it in. pretty swanky though.

- extra B string ---> for added brutality. - when ever i have played E tuned stuff, the B hasn't got in my way, well for me. that's what i love about it, when i play with only 6 strings: Black Metal, & all 7 strings: Death Metal. you could always just put a piece of tape on the B so it is muted. <--- very good trick for when you record, so you don't play those unwanted notes. - yeah the neck is pretty wide, may be a bit wider than a classical. i like neck to be balanced. i say the wider the neck, the flatter the neck contour shoud be and smaller the neck, fatter the neck contour. well that's just me. as for 6 string wizards, i am not a fan, however there is a nice equilibrium with neck width and thickness on the wizard 7s. currently i am building a 6 string baritone. thought i might make a 6 first, but wanted to implement long scale for B tuning. since i love wide necks and B tuned guitars, i am going to use a classical guitar nut on my current project - 46.49mm or 1 13/16" wide. <--- i played classical guitar before electric, wide necks just feel much better to me. i say go with what feels right.

i read somewhere that parker fly guitar have stainless steel frets. i don't know if the black ones are stainless though.

QUOTE: ManWhoSoldTheWorld Posted on May 25 2004, 06:35 PM So, istead of making the neck thru with wings, get the body as one solid piece, the just route a channel all the way down the middle of the body to lay the neck in? did I understand that right? this method is called a deep set tenon. it quite versatile as you can make arch topped neck thruish guitars. i was thinking of implementing this method in my guitar but it would be a waste of wood - well in my case. i want as much meat on my guitar as possible.

in autralia we have this anti-oxidizing paint called rust kill. anyway's, it holds up very well, <better than anodizing - not as pretty looking though> colour is very bland looking. i'm sure their is an equivalent in your country, you should try this!

i got some utile mahogany [aka sipo mahogany] as well. i can get brazilian mahogany except it cost about $120 per 50x125xmeter - crown cut when the utile cost about $30 per meter plus it is 1/4 cut. utile is from africa and it has the same genus as sapele, so it shouldn't sound to bad.

the EMG 81/7 and the 707 use same housing as the EMG 35 Extended Series 4 STRING Active Bass Pickups. see: EMG-707 and EMG 35 - Extended Series - 4 String Bass. 35 = housing length of 3.5" for 4 string bass. 40 = housing length of 4" for 5 string bass. 45 = housing length of 4.5" for 6 string bass. unless they are EMG 35P for 5 string and EMG 40P for 6 string.

dude, are you serious?

i knew i would get this attention, plus a Snork joke, however this is just a theory and/or idea. of course the method does not sound practical at the moment, it is not suppose to. i would be blowing all my idea's at once. and Perry, i was joking abut the termites. a base, of course, thank you Southpa, my method is nearly complete. and for your information, i finished high school and my Dad has a degree in chemistry. yeah so anyway, i got this idea from the Discovery channel. i saw some people getting fossils out of limestone. they would have the block of limestone in a low concentrated acid solution and it would slowly dissolve the limestone. the idea was to have the solution strong enough to dissolve the limstone and weak enough not to dissolve the fossil. well anyway they haven't even finished dissolving all the limestone yet, it takes 5 years, but they have only 2 years to go now.

now i don't know "if they have been doing this for years" but anyway here is my idea or theory. ok, you have a piece of pearl inlay. you have a shape cut of the inlay design [like those ginger bread man cutter things. [you know, you lay the dough flat and press the cutter on the flat dugh and it make a perfect giger bread man cut.] i know what you are thinking, pearl is too brittle to make cuts like that, well that not my idea yet. my idea and/or theory is that you lay a piece of pearl flat on a bench. then you put the design shaped cutter piece [inlay design] on top of the pearl - the cutter needs to have a lot weight on top of it need to have stead balance. now the idea is to drizzle acid around the cutter piece of the inlay, so that the acid eats up the outer pearl piece. now while you wait for the acid to eat up the outter piece of the shape of the pearl and required that acid is all over the outter pearl piece, gravity should force the shape down into the pearl forming a pearl inlay. it may take a few drizzles of acid and a little while to eat the pearl into shape. all i need to know now is which acids eat pearl inlays. but just think, it will require more time, but less work. start the process before you start cutting up the piece to make the guitar, and the pearl inlay might be ready in time for installing. i have the same idea for fretboard inlay cut, although instead of acid i might need termites.

yeah i already know they have CNC machine for small detial work like inlays. i also know that PRS use CNC for inlay work too. never buy PRS guitars. they are completely CNC machined, and even the buffing is done by a computer controlled machine. by the price they charge you could get a hand made guitar for cheaper. but what i meant was what StonesCreed was saying. even if they made an inlay jig device. my uncle works for a company that has a CNC machines for small detail work. the company makes expensive furniture and boxes which are inlayed with pearls. i have tryed to get wood, pearl and cutting done from them but the boss is a paranoid wanker.

sounds interesting jammy. i hope it turns out good. i just have a few suggestions and opinions though. [i will try not to be too critical ] if i was going to build an 8 string i would have a longer scale than 26". i don't really know what you are planning to play on this axe though. it might be an ok scale length if you are planning to play something other than metal, but if you are going to play metal with this thing, try a longer scale [doesn't have to mushuggah long] but longer than 26". i would build mine at 29.5" - just shorter than a short length scale bass. just remember string will be expensive at this scale, you might even need some bass string [which aren't cheap] so keep in mind that longer scale = tighter the tension of the strings which means you will need not as thick guaged strings as a shorter scale. bass pickups? their is probably a reason why you want them [i don't know why] but just my opinion [again you say?! sorry ] well since you are building a guitar with 8 strings, you might as well go the whole 9 yards and spend a little more on pickup/s. but first, about the housing. wouldn't an EMG 40 housing be sufficient enough? i mean a 6 string guitar pickup housing is about 3" long. now the 707 and 81/7 housing which is in a EMG 35 [4 string bass] housing is 3.5". now acording to normal guitar string spacing an EMG 40 [5 string bass] housing would be sufficient enough for an 8 string guitar at 4". i bet you EMG could make any of their guitar pups that would fit in a EMG 40 housing. i mean they can now make 81/7's, what is stopping them by making an 81/8 or even an 808? just make sure the pup/s have harizontal bar pieces and not vertical pole pieces. yeah it looks really huge but it is not as big as it looks, it is just the angle of which the picture was taken. but yeah, you need a pretty big axe if you want to tune to F, Bb, Eb, Ab, Db, Gb, Bb. have a look at some live meshuggah pictures for a proper understanding of its proportion. [meshuggah dudes might be tall, so it might look smaller to them.] but i think it looks a little smaller than a bass. edit in bold

that guitar is looking mighty fine dave. and litch, your idea about suggesting dave should do a tiger job on the figured top [a propper tiger job that is 3D stained and not painted like lynch's] i was thinking that exactly when i saw that pic, exactly. as they say, great minds think a like. ok, on to the point. dave, are the schematics for the LED's difficult for this job? i imagine it wouldn't be. i am not very good with electronics, i can build from schemtics, however my uncle usually helps me with the terminolgy and why and how it is done. could you please point us in the right direction?

they should make little CNC router that cut perfect inlays. they use CNC routers to make production guitars, why not inlays too. then again you could use a laser cutter, but not many people have access to that. i'm not even sure if a laser would cut through the pearl. can a laser cuttter cut MOP? and John, i nice little name for your device would be a "Duplicarver" however, it sounds so catchy i think it has already been taken.

i think i get what Brian is saying. so when the copper tubing is in the wood, say 1/2" from the wood plus there is a nut added on the other end of that copper tubing right, so then you can direct mount the EMGs with the correct height in the wood. or in other words, the copper tubing is acting like a bracket, or like a long nut. good idea Brian!