anderekel

I've never used anything with that on it, but I know it's used on touch guitars, that's about all I can tell ya, it seems like a good idea to me though.

Oh man, I want one too. I could really use it. Set it on delta and self tought genius for me

That's cool, seems like that would be fun, and hard, to carve out. speakin' of which I gotta continue on that celtic knot for the girlfriend.....

You also have to remember that the amp and effects he uses play a big part in that sort of sound, certainly more than the body wood would.

they do form, it's the same idea as they form on your left hand over time for fretting stuff. It will hurt until tha thappens though lol.

Any input from the veterans here? (Nothing personal, anderekel) I never say this to anyone, but seriously - tell me what to do here. no offense taken. I don't know if I'd trust me either lol

I'd say wait, why take the risk? You're gonna have to wait for the body to cure anyway aren't ya?

Another thing is that it's really not a great idea to leave the tank full of air. The tank collects water when it fills up and draining the air out also gets rid of the water. If the water stays in the tank it can easily cause it rust. Not a good thing, now it likely won't make a difference for a while, but if you keep doin' it it'll only get worse. Don't know what your problem could be, but good luck with it.

Well, I personally like the trapazoidal inlays. Looks like it should be a cool lookin' guitar. I'll be interested to see that redwood top.

Well, there are lot's of people here, and lot's of them are probably like me and don't know the answer. Be patient and I'm sure it'll get answered.

The current guitar of the month has an ebony top.

I was gonna ask if mike painted that one, looked like his. That's awesome.

That is awesome, I really like that. I showed that vid to my mom and even she thought that the whole idea was awesome. You should really try and patent that.

Yeah, I've heard of lots of people having success with createx, but I've also heard of a few that have had problems, so I figure it's better to be safe. What acrylic paints have you had bubble? I haven't had any bubble, but then again, I haven't used a whole lot of different brands of paint, pretty much just ones that are supposed to be heatset.

I just saw this and figured I'd throw some info I've picked up. I got really into airbrushing, actually started from wanting to paint my guitar, hehe. So, as far as paint is concerned, since that was a question that was just mentioned or whatever, you have to look at what your paint is for. Createx is not made for hard surfaces, a guitar is a hard surface. Createx is for textiles, so shirts, clothing, paper, canvas, stuff like that, it has been known to have problems drying on a hard surface, would hate to have your clear peel wouldn't ya? As far as good paints for a guitar, if you're lookin' at acrylics, you can go with golden airbrush colors, auto air (made by createx but for hard surfaces), E'tac (relatively new but apparently good, never tried it myself), and other paints that are meant for hard surfaces. Uro's are great to shoot, laquer's fine, basically you have to be able to thin it to the consistency of skim milk or so. I would say, like the others, do not clear with your airbrush, clear is so thick that it will have lots of trouble goin' through an airbrush, especially one with a smaller nozzle. LGM covered the different types of airbrushes really well. A couple things to add, gravity feed uses slightly less air pressure to push the paint out of the brush than siphon feed does. Nozzle size wasn't covered at all it doesn't look like, so I'll address it now. Airbrushes come with different sized nozzles, basically, the smaller the nozzle the the smaller line you can make, to a point, it also depends on how well the airbrush is machined and how well the user can use the airbrush, as well as air pressure and paint viscosity, etc. If you shoot pearls or metallics or something like that you're gonna want to use something with a .5 nozzle or bigger, otherwise it will clog on you. Also, gravity feed airbrushes are better for detail because of the lower air pressure you can use with them. Tip dry is something that you deal with on an airbrush, more often with some paints than others, but it happens with everything. It's basically when paint dries on the tip of the needle, it cause sputtering and clogging, just wipe it off with your fingers and keep goin', easy to fix, but gotta watch out for it. LGM went over the various types of airbrushes but didn't touch any brands, so I'll put up a few different types trying to be as unbiased as possible. I'm gonna stick to double action since that's all I use and really don't like single action ones at all. So, I'll start off with good overall airbrushes. The paasche vl is probably the most common airbrush around. You can get the set and have three different needle/nozzle sizes, great for medium and larger areas as well as pearls and metallics. You can do details with it, but it's more difficult than with something with a smaller nozzle. Badger in general makes decent brushes, I don't like them but that's just my personal preference. Iwata is a good overall brand, more expensive than many other brands, but well made and many people swear by them. Richpen makes good brushes as well, they're owned by the same company that makes iwata. In europe harder and steinbeck brushes are supposed to be very good, I haven't used them so I don't know for sure, but I've heard incredible things about them. Now for the more detail oriented brushes. The richpen mojo is one of the best detail brushes you can get. It's modified by mike learn, a famous airbrush artist for those that don't know, and only available through his site [url="http://www.learnaibrush.com"]http://www.learnaibrush.com[/url]. It has a .2mm nozzle. It can get incredible details and is also cheaper than many of the other airbrushes in the same category, $299. The Iwata micron is considered by many to be the best detail brush around. It's based off of the olympos micron. The olympos is a much better brush, but the micron is no longer made and very, VERY hard to find. The iwata has a .18mm nozzle. It can be finicky because of the smaller nozzle, but so can all the other airbrushes with smaller nozzles. The micron runs around $565 or so. Harder and steinbeck has a newer brush called the infinity. It can have many interchangeable tips, .15 being the smallest and the one I'm gonna talk about. Having not used an infinity I can't tell you a whole lot about how smooth it is or anything. The only bad thing I've heard about it is that the trigger has a farther pull than other airbrushes. At around $250 or cheaper, depending on what version you get, it's a good deal. There are other good detail brushes but these are the most common and the better high end ones (that can be found easily). As far as air source. A compressor is, in my opinion, the way to go. You get a constant air flow, that's the biggest thing you need with an airbrush. I would say stay away from the plain airbrush compressors, they aren't very good. Many of them pulse, which creates big problems when trying to airbrush. They also have problems with heating up a lot and and creating lots of water. Water traps are a must, but you should run at least 25' and probably 50' of hose before you attach it, that way the water vapor has a chance to cool and actually be caught by the water trap. Another good option is co2. The nice things about it is that it's quiet, it's constant, it's a decent air source. There are some problems, they tend to freeze up, stopping all air flow period. They also need to have a special regulator because of the amount of pressure they hold. Finally, they have to be refilled, which costs money, not a whole lot, but money none the less. Propellant cans are the last way to power an airbrush. I would stay away from those, they don't last very long, you can't control the pressure, just not very good at all. I feel like there was more I wanted to cover, but it's 3:40 in the morning and I don't feel like thinking anymore lol. Pm me if anyone wants more information and I'll add more the thread. Hope you didn't get too bored with my novellette, hehe. Thought of something. There's a third type of brush that wasn't mentioned, a side feed airbrush, basically the cup is on the side of the airbrush. There are gravity cups for this or the regular metal cups that come with the airbrush. The advantage of these are that you can spray at whatever angle you want, you could spray at the ceiling if you wanted you by turning the cup. You can also put the cup on either side of the airbrush to suit your preference. It's a siphon feed technically, but they act a lot like a gravity feed. The only downside that I know of is that if you get a giant cup for one and fill it with paint it doesn't balance well, it's not a big deal, but something to be aware of. I love my side feed mojo . The side feed is really great in my opinion. Oh, and just in case someone were to try this, you can't get a side feed mojo, I had him do mine special and the brush isn't made anymore, the richpen sidefeed, so I have the only one in exsistence and it will stay that way. Sorry, had to brag a little, hehe. Again, ask me anything about airbrushing, if I don't know offhand I talk to enough professional airbrushers that I can find out for ya pretty easy.

I don't remember how the upper fret access is, but you could look up the moderne if you like the v shape, if it doesn't have the best fret access you can always mod the design a bit.

I was wondering what happened to this. Great job man, I love it.

Well, I gotta say, it doesn't look like snake skin, but it does look awesome. Great job man.

Well, my only suggestion would be to fill in the pickup route and move it up a half inch. I don't know if you're to it yet, but there's a point when that's what ya gotta do.

A suggestion for something super flat is glass, a thick piece of glass would work great, assuming that you're not too hard on it. Glass is made perfectly flat, so it should work great.

I can't garantee it, but it should be exactly the same as doin' it 3x3 or 4x2 or however you want to do it. I have a washburn like that and I've seen other guitars like it as well. There was another thread not too long ago about headstock angle, I'd recomend lookin' it up.

I figured it was just something for you and you liked the pattern, if you're selling it you should definately use fishnet material, the diamonds make it look a lot better, I would also say when you paint it, make diamond shapes with the paint, use the other guitar that was posted in the thread for reference, that would make it much more desirable to most people buying it, at least in my view. And, like pmarlin said, I wouldn't mix rattle cans, especially not rattle can paint with laquer, that is almost certainly what caused the problems. I would at least try to use like an enamel, that's often what rattle can paints are, there are some "automotive" rattle can clears, certainly not as good as the normal stuff, but they seem to be pretty strong, I used duplicolor engine enamel on a panel and I was even able to buff it and whatnot. I don't know what that would do to the sound of the guitar, but I wouldn't think it would do a whole bunch. Good luck on your next try.

What sort of paint did you use? Cause I've heard that if you're using laquer all the paint has to be laquer or else it will do, well, what happened to you. I'm not positive on that though.

I like the speckled effect with the copper color. Looks good. I hope the paint in the neck pocket doesn't cause any problems.

The problem that I see with the copper is that the bag moved on ya so it got the pattern off. I would suggest that you do a lighter base and then do the darker color for the scales, but that's just my preference, looks like you got the right idea goin' though. Make sure you let us see it when you're done.