ElRay

Odd. This is working now. Before, when I clicked, the browser loaded my profile page, no pane w/ links to other pages. Thanks. Ray

For me, the menu that used to drop-down when the triangle next to the username is clicked, is missing. When the username is clicked, it goes to view profile, but I can't find a way to see my followed threads, etc. Ray

I'll have to 2nd this on. The "Follow This Topic" buttons don't work for me. Also, regarding the HTML, it's incorrect HTML to boot. There are non-breaking spaces inserted after the periods that end a sentence. They shouldn't be non-breaking. Ray

Availability is another factor. Many highly figured woods go directly to veneer. You might never find what you're looking for think enough for a cap. Ray

On a related note, do zero frets need to be taller? I'm seeing some folks that are adamant that they need to be taller (like a nut is), but to me it seems like a zero fret shouldn't be any different than a regular fret. If it had to be taller, then how can you fret at the first fret without buzzing at the second fret, likewise, if the zero fret must be taller, then how could a capo ever work? Ray

There's always FretFind2D: http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/ You specify: scale length, string width at the nut, string width at the bridge, fretboard overhang, number of frets & number of strings and it will return a PDF, SVG, DFX, etc. of the designed fretboard. It will even handle compound scaled and non-traditional scales (19 EDO, etc.). Here's a super-simple 27" neck: http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/#len=27&lenF=25&lenL=28&pDist=0.5&nutWidth=1.375&bridgeWidth=2.125&oE=0.09375&oN=0.09375&oB=0.09375&oL=0.09375&oF=0.09375&oNL=0.09375&oNF=0.09375&oBL=0.09375&oBF=0.09375&root=12&scl=%0A!+12tet.scl%0A!%0A12+tone+equal+temperament%0A12%0A!%0A100.0%0A200.%0A300.%0A400.%0A500.%0A600.%0A700.%0A800.%0A900.%0A1000.%0A1100.%0A2%2F1%0A&numFrets=24&numStrings=6&t%5B%5D=0&t%5B%5D=0&t%5B%5D=0&t%5B%5D=0&t%5B%5D=0&t%5B%5D=0&u=in&sl=single&scale=et&o=equal Ray

What if you "ebonized" it with Yea Olde "Steel Wool Dissolved in Vinegar" method? I'm not sure of the tannin concentration in ebony, so it might not work w/o Yea Olde "Bathe it with a Strong Brew of Tea" pre-treatment. Ray

There's some posts about oil finishes in this thread. Ray

Has anybody used ViaCAD 2D/3D? They just released a new version. This version has shape extrusion, which makes it easy to go from a 2D outline to a 3D model. Ray

Interesting, I've already experimented with 2-part epoxy on maple and have been able to get a seemingly harder finish with a satin almost nothing's there feel that was only slightly darker than the original wood. Regarding the CA finish:What initial grit do you sand the wood too? How many coats? Could I squeegee the CA on with a razor blade for less sanding afterwards? Do you sand between coats? What final grit do you take it to? Is it easy to sand through? Ray

Thanks all. I'd +vote the lot of you, but I have no votes to give. The build will be a "frugal" build, so it will use "left over" wood from furniture/cabinet projects. So, it most likely will be cherry & maple. I also have some santos mahogany, but there's no way I'm going to use that on my first build. Maybe #2, but definitely not #1. I'm definitely leaning towards something that's easy to repair and barely there. I'll have to look at the gun stock oil. I'll be rebuilding my workbench "soon", so I'll see how I like thinner/wax finish and follow-up here. Ray

Shellac very well may be the way to go. I was initially concerned because it's not the most water (aka sweat) proof, but then again, it easy to repair. Has anybody tried Behlen Rock Hard Table Varnish? or Behlen Stringed Instrument Varnish? Has anybody tried an "Olde Fashioned" workbench finish? Basically it's a hard wax (paraffin, carnauba, etc.) melted into a solvent (turpentine, mineral oil, etc.) and then rubbed in. For example: http://www.wwch.org/Technique/Finishes/FinWaxForm.htm Ray

Sorry if this has been beat to death, but I don't really know what to search for. Anyway, I'm planning a "for my personal use" build and I'm looking for finishes (both neck and body) that have very short "Finished Finishing" to "Ready to Use" (final cure?) times. Minimal "hands on time" is also a plus, because I'll be squeezing this project in among the other "Honey Do" projects around the house (flooring, crown moulding, building vanities for my daughters, etc.). I'm also not set-up for "real" spraying, so finishes that can be padded, brushed, rattle-caned, mason-jar-presurized-sprayer-ed, etc. would also be preferred. For the (most likely laminated maple) neck, I'd prefer something that has that "barely there" feel. This one can also take a "moderate" amount of time to cure, because there will likely be a month (or two) between the neck completion and the body completion. For the (most likely maple/mahogany, maybe poplar) body, I'd prefer something along the lines of a SG Red finish, but since I won't be using "pretty" wood, I'll have no problem with (and might even prefer if I go with poplar) something solid color. I just realized, I have a lot of "preferences", because I'm overall, not that picky, I just don't want to have a "finished" guitar that has to sit around for months before final assembly & use. It's bad enough I've been waiting this long to start, and that the start-to-finish build time will be drawn-out, so having to wait very long to actually start using the guitar would kill me. Ray

Todd Keehn: www.tkinstruments.com Yes, he uses 5/32" stainless steel rod for frets. He says it's not for folks that need to feel wood under their fingers. He also says it's also really great for bends & vibrato. I've been very tempted to go this route. Ray

That's much better than the default bag. For $30, that's not bad. Your CFM will take a hit over the cartridge, but you'll likely get more flow than with the 5 micron OEM bag. Add a Thein baffle, and that will be even better. The cartridge does add to the price, but it's a big improvement - performance and health-wise. I guess it depends on how airtight your shop is. Bookmarked! Ray

Another option would be to buy a small tube of conductive epoxy. I haven't tried it, don't know how it would work. Ray

I've got one these. The are nice. The default bag lets too much fine dust through, but it's still better than a lot of other solutions. You can order a custom one-micron bag for about $150 from American Fabric Filter. There's also a Wynn Cartridge modification that will get you into the sub-micron realm: http://www.wynnenv.com/35A_series_cartridge_kit.htmhttp://familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1628http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?157024-My-HF-Thien-Wynn-conversionshttp://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?125347-New-HF-DC-w-Thien-baffle-amp-Wynn-filterGoogle for moreThe last two links above also mention the Thein baffle, which does a lot to help keep all but the finest dust in the bag. When I get the chance this summer, I'm going to build a "box" so that that I can reconfigure mine to suck through a Thein baffle and then blow through the outside of a Wynn cartridge. That will keep a lot of the dust in the bag and allow me to more easily clean the cartridge because all the schmutz that it does collect will be on the outside. Ray

Nice work. Quick question: What was the thought process behind the layout of the string-through ferrules? Ray

I understand it's not like you originally intended, but I like it. ... and that's the most important thing.

One other point: The thinner the blade, the closer the bookmatch. You could do two cuts using a table saw, and then hand cut whatever is left, but the bookmatching will not be as good as it would be if you used a bandsaw. That said, a bandsaw that can handle a piece that's 7-1/2" tall is not as easy to come by as a table saw that can cut 3-1/2" deep. Ray

Another update from AllParts. The nut, that can be added to a regular truss rod, is an in-stock item (SAT2) at $22. Ray

Too late to edit the post, but I just received a reply from AllParts. They said they can special order one and the delivery time would be about 8 weeks. Ray

Quick update: Warmoth says they can't sell one separately Stew-Mac says they can't special order parts Found a French Vendor that will ship one, but they estimate the shipping to be 25 Euros for the 17 Euro item I've emailed All Parts too, but haven't received a reply yet. Let me know if anybody wants the French Vendor's info. I'm super keen on using one of these over a "regular" truss rod, but I'm doing a "string through" headless build and didn't really want to complicate the headstock area. If I can't get a Gotoh side-adjust, then I'll likely go with a Stew-Mac Spoke Nut Hot Rod. Ray

It looks like I might actually be able to start the build that's been rattling around in my head for years. Anyway, one of those Gotoh Side-Adjust truss rods that are on Warmoth (and some other luthier's) necks would simplify my design. Warmoth doesn't sell them and I can't find an online retailer that does. I'm suspecting these are OEM-only. Anybody know where to source these? Ray