GuitarMaestro

Neither of us said he wants to definately buy it. Feel free to do so without knowing the price and properties....

Hmm....did you think of the playability these designs offer? I suspect number 1 & 2 will be VERY uncomfortable to play. You should at least built a prototype from styro or cheap wood and check if these designs are playable.

Wise words! Buy a preslotted fretboard. Costs not much more then an unslotted board and saves you tons of work and increases the quality of your end product. Then you still have to radius the board, fret it and level the frets which is very difficult to do right as well, so why not avoid one unnecessary difficulty?

How much for the EMG81? I might be interested!

Derek (krazyderek on this forum) from dreamlandguitars.com should be ableto sell you one....

Cutting mirror glas is to small shapes suited for inlaying might be difficult if not quite impossible....how do you want to cut the mirror glass?

Hehe....not really corrected. I just added to your post.

Not really if you are aiming for a certain sound. I can only stress again that soft maple sounds very mellow and dampens the high frequencies if used for a neck even if you laminate it with real hardwoods. If you aim for a dull/mellow sound ok, but if you don't beware. I learned it the hard way....

Try taking pictures outside in daylight. I always do that and my pictures come out excellent although I have no clue about photography. Getting good pictures with artificial lighting is difficult and especially if you have a not so great cam.

Soft maple can very well be used for a neck contrary to common belief. You have to get a quatersawn blank though and to be on the safe side it is good to laminate it with a stripe or too of a real hardwood like Bubinga or Wenge. That said I will never use soft maple for a neck again though because it sounds to mellow for my taste and has not enough attack and bite for my taste.

If you want to use figured maple for looks the common way to do it is to add a top or cap of figured maple to a body made from common wood. Usually the top is about 5mm to 15mm in thickness. Using only maple for the whole body makes for a very heavy and bright instrument. There are people who like it that bright though. Kirk Hammet's signature guitar has an all maple body and some guys on this forum do all maple bodies for the brutal attack and cutting tone it provides which is good for heavy distortion because the sound still becomes not muddy then. I suspect figured maple is not the best wood for carving though, as the heavy figure is likely to tear out and the wood responds different to tools every fraction of an inch because of the change in figure. P.s.: I never tried to carve quilted or birdseye maple so this are only my thoughts and no knowledge gained from hands-on expirience.

I am from Germany and there is not much to add to RGG'S post. If you have further questions ask and I will translate.....

Looks great from what I can actually see! The quality of the pictures is REALLY bad. Did you use webcam for them? As I said already the guitar looks very nice and I am going to build one too sooner or later......

Don't undererstimate the sanding! It is very easy to sand through and then you have to start the finishing process from scratch and remove the finish so far. It is a work that sounds easy and tiresome, but in fact you really have to pay attention during sanding.

Thanks....I already found a picture of the acrylic necks....cools stuff!!!!

Wow....great work! Did you carve/machine the body yourself?

I doubt the peghead material will have a big impact on the sound of the guitar. It sure may be noticeable, but I guess it will only add a very subtle touch, especially in comparison to a maple peghead which is already a quite dense material. P.s.: Me too wants to see pictures of that neck! POST them!!!!

Darren is 100% correct. And it's no myth....if you look closely you can see alot of people under 30 years on the street that already have to wear hearing earplugs. I usually don't wear earplugs on concerts and during rehearsals, because i can't find plugs that actually sound acceptable to me. I only use them if the volume is really brutal. But I would always wear plugs if I can find good sounding ones.

Warmoth, stewmac and all other guitar builder supply shops sell Fender-style necks made from maple. You can really get them everywhere.

Nobody I know of sells fingerboards that are already fretted. You can only buy pre-slotted fingerboards and I recommend that very much. There is really no advantage in slotting them yourself.

Yes it's definatley a neck made for a roller nut....but putting a usual floyd nut there may not work, because I doubt the routing depth needed for a roller nut is the same. So you will have to make the nut route deeper or shim the new nut in order to get a good action.

Both ways work great. I never do scarf joints because I usually use figured neck woods and with them the joint would look ugly. I simply cut the complete neck with the angled peghead from one piece of wood. As the other people here wrote this is less common because it wastes wood and is therefore more expensive.

Looking forward to a review. As I only like the Seasons and the Reign in Blood album I would not go to a show but I am still interested in hearing how they played....

Yngwie Malmsteen has huge hands and fat fingers and he mainly plays in the upper regions and his leads always go to the highest fret possible. It's just a matter of practice you have to fret with the foremost tip of the finger and not the whole finger....

One thing I would have done different: I found it much easier to not glue the top pieces together first. I usually glue one half of the top bookmatch on and then the second one, this makes it very easy to align them and you don't need the method with metal bolts then....