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Norris

Build 2 - Dan's LP JR Double Cut

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Norris    207

Thanks for the kind comments. That's my second "conventional" truss rod - the next will be a more modern one, mainly because I haven't done one yet :)

16 hours ago, Mr Natural said:

hows that tele (thread hijack ) coming?

Still a lot of sanding to do. I'll obviously post something when I have something worthy of posting :D

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Norris    207

Fixed Pix

F*** you Photobucket! How dare you take away the service I've never paid a penny for! :D

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Prostheta    1,254

Whilst it's legal (and not entirely unexpected) what Photobucket have done, it's awful how much they're attempting to gouge people for. Insane amounts really.

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ScottR    1,363

They had the (moldy) balls to email me with an offer to various grades of services today. The third party hosting version was $33 a month...which is roughly $400 a year or $100 less than the original hijack price.

What a bargain.

Bastards.

:angry:

SR

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Norris    207

Let's try an update from my mobile phone...

I glued in the truss rod fillet using epoxy

20171030_180405.thumb.jpg.9fcc592b1b6f2cc68c27cf43bb891dcd.jpg

And the next day took it down to level using a small violin plane followed by a scraper

20171030_191041.thumb.jpg.b5c35a4bb96df655c0f26bfbb0c7cf86.jpg

Edit: Ooh - that went quite well

Edited by Norris
On the big 'puter

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Norris    207

Last night I finished cleaning up the edges of the board using my trusty 80 grit sanding beam, followed by my 180 grit beam. I'm doing a fair bit of sanding on the ebony having got a few chips on the few times I've waved a plane at it. It takes a bit longer but at less risk. I then had to file down the top of the truss rod washer as it was sitting a little proud. There's a thing I should have paid more attention to before gluing in the fillet :)

Finally to round off the evening I made the vertical cut in the headstock plate. The nut will nestle up against it, so it needed to be nice and square. I clamped my set square in place to give me a guide, scored with an xacto-knife, then set about it with one of the nice new Japanese pull saws that my class have bought. I've not used one before, but it was a real joy to use and lovely & accurate

20171106_201759.thumb.jpg.2383cdc5fdfaeb4a31eb179f7b7d1266.jpg

I cut most of the way through the ebony until I could see the mahogany at the edges of the cut, then chipped off the ouffcut with a chisel. Otherwise I'd have been sawing down into the mahogany before the centre of the cut was through. Anyway a chisel carefully applied to the end grain chipped it away no problem - it's what ebony wants to do :D

A little tidying with a cabinet scraper to remove the old Titebond squeeze out that was remaining, and the job's a good 'un

20171107_081858.thumb.jpg.63ac86e33557cfccf69fd310ceb1f31f.jpg

Edited by Norris
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Prostheta    1,254
6 hours ago, Norris said:

Anyway a chisel carefully applied to the end grain chipped it away no problem - it's what ebony wants to do :D

 

That's a fundamental point that I picked up very early on. Know where wood's strengths and weaknesses lay, so you can exploit them. It transformed my approach.

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Norris    207

Oh and just a slight note - I left the set square clamped in place while using the cabinet scraper. That helped keep the edge nice & sharp.

It looks better in the photo than I remember :)

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Norris    207

After a couple of weeks "on the shelf" it was time to drag this out again. Not a huge amount of progress, certainly not worth a photo. I trimmed the headstock depth down on the bandsaw, leaving myself about 1mm additional thickness to tidy up. I then squared up my nut and got it down to thickness - the fretboard will butt up against it.

The rest of the evening was some planning. As we are now fitting a neck pickup, that could weaken the neck joint. My tame luthier advised that I do a full mortise & tenon, setting the neck slightly further in than a standard LPJR. This means moving the bridge back by about 15mm, also so that we can get some distance between the pickups. It will have the benefit of not only more contact area on the neck joint, but there should be no need to make a scratch plate to cover the join. Needless to say I'll do plenty of photos of that.

My guitarist ("customer") is out of the country at the moment, so I'll discuss the tweaks with him over Christmas. The guitar building classes have ended for this year now

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Norris    207
17 hours ago, Prostheta said:

Long tenons are great when you can shoehorn one in.

I wish the neck blank had been a little longer. Then I could do a nice long tenon. I've got to try to make as stable a joint as possible with the wood I've got. Of course it might add to the complexity as the fretboard will have to overhang the body slightly - meaning I've probably got to put a slight angle on what would otherwise have been a slab body. That's all to be worked out yet

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Prostheta    1,254

Slight angles are easy really, especially if you're good with basic trigonometry calculation and have a pair of calipers to hand. So easy it's almost like cheating.

 

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Andyjr1515    531

I realise I'm a bit out of date with this.  

There are some very sound skills an techniques on view, @Norris  I think the end product is going to be drool-some :)

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Norris    207
49 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

I realise I'm a bit out of date with this.  

There are some very sound skills an techniques on view, @Norris  I think the end product is going to be drool-some :)

Thanks. I still rank as "novice" though :). I have a very good instructor

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