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ihocky2

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ihocky2 last won the day on February 15

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About ihocky2

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    Bethlehem, Pa

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  1. ihocky2

    The Wahlgaard II project.

    Any reason on a neck that wide you are using a single truss rod instead of two? Not that two are always needed, but with that much room I would have done two just two allow for more adjustment on each side.
  2. ihocky2

    BEER! What's in your fridge?

    Mezcal I am not well versed in. Had a flight sampler or three over the last year or two, but don’t remember any names. Our liquor stores have next to no mezcal, so I don’t get to really try any. Sadly I like it better than tequila, and can’t get it.
  3. ihocky2

    Pink floyd tribute

    I love it. I like the lines carrying through the body, but do agree with AD on keeping the headstock dark.
  4. ihocky2

    BEER! What's in your fridge?

    Glad to hear you like that one. I have more “Research” to do, but that is my favorite to drink straight so far. I won’t waste something that good on shots or mixed drinks.
  5. I’ve never been a big LP fan, but i like this one. The wood looks nice, I like the carves and I love the shape of the F holes.
  6. ihocky2

    Lightweight Tele build.

    Light weight and easy to work usually don’t describe ash, you definitely got lucky on that piece. I did a thinline Tele from ash years ago that is light after then chambering but was hell on tools. My work bench is mostly ash and the thing weighs a ton. Before you settle on a set neck, make sure to do some trial fit up. Make sure you like the fret access and still have enough wood for side support.
  7. ihocky2

    BEER! What's in your fridge?

    My experience is that all Patron is over priced. You are paying for the marketing. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a very good tequila but it belongs about $10 cheaper and there are others that are better in the same or lower price points. I’ve come to really enjoy Espalon, especially for mixing. If I want a real nice sipping tequila I’ve gone to Casamigos Anejo. Our liquor stores have almost no mezcal, but if you have a good selection I would try some. A flight at a restaurant or bar is helpful. Mezcal is to tequila what scotch is to whiskey.
  8. I would venture a guess that the dealer should still be there. There is a nice thread or tutorial about painted taped off patterns, the main point was heavily thinning and getting color with minimal build. I think you want the color ratio to be based against the thinned volume of lacquer, not pre-thinned. That will increase the ratio of color to lacquer. At worst I would try some different mixes on scrap. practice is the best tool. When I switched to poly it was learning all over again and then going to an HVLP gun I had to change me entire technique.
  9. I’ve done the small buffs in a drill for inside the horns. Works great but watch where the nut on the buff is and where the drill chuck are. I won’t say how I know that. No need to fear with the boiled linseed oil rags. The problem comes with them piled or wadded up. Hang them out to dry and they are fine. The heat builds up are the oil cures, if they have surface area to let off the heat then they just dry. Piles of rags builds up and holds a lot of heat.
  10. Sounds like spraying too heavy still. I think more of it is coming from being unthinned. Your are laying down a lot more solids which is the heavy part, causing the runs. I would try thinning 50%. Especially with the color coats you are looking for something to carry and bind the color, not necessary build thickness. Also watch your distance to the work surface, lighter coats up close don’t disperse as much and will lay down heavier. Remember your 50% overlap patterns, even with the Preval.
  11. ihocky2

    headstock/tuner placment

    Remember, your best tuning stability comes from straight string pulls between the nut and the tuners. Once you have a full scale drawing it will be easier to tell where everything falls.
  12. Either using the dye in alcohol and dying the wood like Mike said or think about mixing the dye into some lacquer for a translucent finish. Use a few light coats to seal the wood and then spray the color coats. By sealing first you eliminate the blotching problems. Ive never used paulownia, but if it is soft like poplar just be careful until you finish it. I’ve done several poplar bodies and they dent just looking at them in the raw state. You’d be amazed how much harder they get once they soak up some finish though.
  13. It’s been a few years that life got in the way of my building and playing, but am starting back at both again. I don’t get to play everyday, sometimes not every week, my strings seem to corrode pretty quickly from just sitting, will coated strings help extend their life. Being double the cost of regular strings, should I expect double the life or more? With so many brands offering coatings now, are any better than others? i don’t gig, I don’t record, right now it’s just building my chops back up so tone is not my highest priority. Feel, playability, and string life are more important right now.
  14. That’s pretty much the same way I do blade slots. A template and small router but would be nice, but I always feel more comfortable with hand tools for precision work.
  15. ihocky2

    questions for the nitro kings...

    I believe that one at Home Depot is nitro, best way to tell is the label. It should list cellulose nitrate if it is nitro. Remember with rattle cans to only use about 50% of the can, after that you get more solvent and propellant which leads to more orange peal. Nitro being harder than poly is actually easier to wet sand. Poly is soft and tears when sanded, nitro is harder and the sand paper cuts, seems counterintuitive. Spend a little more on the spray gun and you can use a 30 gallon air compressor or maybe less. Look at the mini-HVLP guns, they use low CFM’s. DeVilbiss makes nice ones, I have a Finex 1000 made by Sharpe that I love. A good gun makes a world of difference in the final finish. I started with a cheap one and learned the hard way; but once, cry once.
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