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DV's guitar


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Maiden look'en good man that thing is going to be deadly and thanks for the black epoxy info I will try that out!! So anyway how did you do that input jack that idea would be awsome for some of my guitars Thanks for all the help your work get's me thinking B)

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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Devon, if your epoxy is taking for ever to dry Ithink that you are not adding enough hardener. I got this one in the slow setting black. I got about 20-30 min before this sucker starts getting thick and about 2 hrs later Ican sand. I recomend you squeegee as much as you can or you will be sanding for hours. Also, as you can notice on mine I did one application of the back, then one of the clear stew mac grain filler and I still have some grain showing at the center, I think that it is because I sanded a bit too hard and I was using a thick sponge instead of a block so that I didn't sand thru on the curves.

Matt, you don't know how much of my ideas I owe to the guys here. The main Idea was from a guitar I saw here that had a strat input jack plate on the back under the trem cover, since I don't like the look of the strat plate, I came up with the idea of using this type following Brians Jem output tutorial. I used a long 1/4" to drill the pilot hole, once that was done ( and before this make sure to take a lot of measurements if not you can run to shallow or worst into the top), I changed the way Brian did a bit, I used a 3/4" drill mounted drum sander and made the initial shape of the hole, once I wad it done, I took the fostner 3/4 bit and drilled until aboout 1" from the othe end. now carefully I used the 1/2 fostner and drilled all the way thru. I recomend doing this in a drill press, but if you are carefull you can manage as I did. And to finish it, I used my chisel and cut inside the cavity to a 45 degree so that the jack nut will fit flush in the hole. I will see if I can post some pics of this, I didn't took any inprogress, but since I won't be able to paint in a few days I might take some so I don't get bored.

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Finally some progress tonight. I got a new polyurethane spray that I haven't tried yet and decided to use it on this guitar. Since I have had 2 previous problems with duplicolors clear coats (they don't want to dry on me) I decided to use this one, and since it says that it can be used for floor, I think that the finish sahould be tought enough for a guitar. Here are 2 pics, one with normal light so you can see the actual blue tone that the guitar took from the metalcast and the other one with some extra white light other than the flash to show a bit the burst edge. In person the guitar looks dark, like the ocean back home. I think this paint will work good on some figured maple after staining black-sand back. This way I don't have to worry much about the black stain bleeding on my. May be for the next project, this ash kicked my butt.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01685.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01688.jpg

I will have to bite my hand now and wait about 2-3 weeks before color sanding and polishing... this is cruel, I can't wait to be able to paint with 2 part poly.

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Never really had a problem with dupli-color clear. I just got done doing a neck in duplicolor gun metal with there clear coat and its dry and not gummy either(dried it in a hot room). Only problem I have had so far is when I drilled out the holes from the tuners to a larger size(didn't realize the sperzels were bigger then what the neck had in it plus I got primer and filler jammed in there) I accidently peeled some paint off with the masking tape. Also that body is looking real good with that poly on it.

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Cloud, Dupli is a very good paint, all the base color that I have used dry pretty good, and this is because I just use enough to get the solid color on it, but on the clear, I tend to build it up thick so that I don't sand thru it in the color sanding part, I want to make sure that it is smooth before I begin polishing sine I do it by hand, the smoother it is the easier to polish nice as glass. And some how after the second day (coats 4-5-6) the paint starts to get hard on the surface but keep moist deep inside. The strat that I painted took about 5 months to get hard to the point that when I place it on the stand the rubber won't mark it. strat

On this one I used Krylon triple thick glaze, it hardened fine in 3-4 weeks, but as you can see on the top, the heat from the sun bubbled the paint in less than an hour, and it wasn't even hot outside, this is the reason why I tried this other one... hopefully it will be nice and hard in a few weeks so that I can put it together and start playing.

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On a computer case I painted I sanded the surfae with 400 grit, primed, sanded with 600, color coated, went through increasingly higher grits of sandpaper until I got to 2000 grit, clear coated, once again went through increasingly higher grit sandpaper on each coat, buffed it with rubbing compound, and finally used polish to take out swirls. Came out to a pretty decent mirror for being metallic paint. Also after each coat of paint I used a heatlamp on it for a couple days to help the paint cure. I plan to use the same method on my body once I touch up the damaged neck paint and add a few more layers of clear (not taking any chances this time probably try and get 10 coats on). Next chance I get I want to talk to a guy I know who owns an auto repair shop with a computerized mixing machine to see if I can score some cheap urethane auto paints off him (just need clear, some primer, and a few simple base coat colors).

Edited by Cloud
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Not bad... the only problem with what you did is that I usualy use metalic colors and you can't (or are not supposed to) color sand it, unless it's laquer gloss finish. If it is a base coat clear coat paint, when you sand the base the metalic flakes lay down or get removed too much and the effect is not the same. also I don't color sand the base coat any higher than 800 and if I do I do one more thin coat before clear goes on. Been told by many that this way the coats will adehere better (I don't think so, but it worked so far for me) And I never use rubbing compound, just swirl remover to polish, once you sand to 2000 on can paint you don't need the coarse compounds.

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Yes it happened again, got impatient, and went t othe guitar to check on it and the paint was hard as a rock. I got the sandpaper that I had in water from the morning, and started with 1000-2000, then swirl remover and started putting this thing together. At about 1 am after finishing and tunning it, I must say that this thing rocks. This is the 1st 24 fret guitar that I have, played (other than a Jackson 7string) or owened. I love the reach down to the 24 fret, ...I don't see myself wandering down there much, but the unobstructed reach to the 22 fret is more than desirable. I can't wait to have sun outside to take more pics and really see how the color looks on sun light.

Some pics.

DSC01693.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01697.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01691.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01696.jpg

DSC01694.jpg

Specs.

Body: Ash with 2 mahogany stripes up front.

Neck: Jackson JDR 94, lightly blue stained and rubbed with steel wool, then clear coated and rubbed again to a satin look, the top from the 3 up is painted with duplicolor mirage. Scalloped from the 12 up. and

Electronics: Neck EMG 60, Bridge EMG 81, 3 way selector.

Paint: Duplicolor Metalcast blue (bursted) with Spray can polyurethane clear.

Other: Frenched input jack, custom made cavity cover, Graphteck nut in place of the Floyd original. Reccessed knobs

Hope you guys like it! I'm up to the next one soon.

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Man Maiden that thing came out just deadly B) great looking finish I hope mine look's that rock hard after I use the black epoxy filler. What are you doing with the neck for a finish and what about that 1 screw hole on there are you going to fill it or just leave it alone??

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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Matt, I haven't decided yet on the neck, so far it feels comfy, so I might leave it bee. But I'm thinking in getting another can of the metalcast and stripping the neck again and redoing it in blue. I haven't done any major work yet because I'm waiting on ordering some water slide decal paper, for the headstock, once that's done, I will probably sand the neck smooth, and then paint the face of the headstock with MC blue, slap my decal and then clear the hole thing. I like bare necks but this think is too thin and I don't want to risk warpage. Glad you liked it, my next one should be a little more to your side, thinking about a Viper meets the F series ESP. But I got no neck until jan, so this will be a 21 fret from my Squier, which will be replaced by a 22 Carvin later.

Later,

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Sounds cool I hope the neck work's out the way you want it to,and your next one sound's like fun I cant wait to see it get started do you have the design on paper yet if so let me take a peak, any way good luck man B)

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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Nice bro, is that a dent in the upper right corner in this:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01696.jpg picture?

I also would have dont the whole neck black. I think its ugly with it sanded black or whatever you did. I would have done it all black so it could atleast look cool with the control cavity being black and the neck screws black.

Nice,

Chris

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Yeap, thatis a dent, my 3 yr old already claimed it as his, and I don't know what he hit it with, all I know is that it was right over the grain, and it dented like a shallow pool, no scratch mark or nothing, just a smooth round (or eliptic) dent. I guess it already have a battle scar.

The neck is not done, I don't like it black, if I paint it, it will be blue, and I will do like I did with the body and just darken that area. I

All I can say about this guitar is that it sounds awsome, I played the Squier, then the Epi... after this, I plugged this thing on and it sounds so full! I think it is the difference in having a cheap wood on a production guitar compared to the Ash on this body. Is like listening revving a Hoda Civic and then Revving a 1969 stroked Camaro with flowmasters on. And the 60 sounds so deep in compare with the 85, that it almost sound like I'm tunned lower, (I'm Eb now) and it sounds like a D tunning. I', so about to make a body for the Squier (since I got no plans on playing that thing again) with the Ash I got left! I will only use the neck from it, and since it is a Fender sized, I can swap it for a Carvin later down the road.

Thanks for all the replies guys, that makes me feel like I didn't waste my time doing this. It is so rewarding!

Added this pics taken outside, the burst is not too visible in the shots, but in person you can see it better.

DSC01702.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01701.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01706.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01698.jpg

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very beautiful!!!

is that finish nitro? was it a candy coat?

Mike

Mike, it is polyurethane in can. I don't remember the brand since I'm at work, but Iwill post it as soon as I find it. This stuff is great, I will really post what it is because I find it better than any of the duplicolor clear coats. Note here that I haven't used nitro yet, so I can't say if it is better than it. And the color is Duplicolor Metalcast, which is like a candy, just that it is in a can. I haven't found anything better yet. At least not in can. The only draw back is that you have to wait about 3-5 days before clear coating or it will rise with the new coat. Once dried I scuffed it with 800 to make sure that I will not have any adehesion problems and shot the poly on. This poly is great!

Wes, thanks man, I just want to get the neck looking good to see if Iget it in the GOTM, I won't post it like this, is not complete to me!

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