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Prs Style 7 String


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Sorry RGGR, I thoguh about it but I got so into it that it is sitting right now with the blue stain already rubbed in. Just look at the picture with the black stain on it, by the look of it you can see were the grain is, sand with 220 lightly until you can see white maple on the light shaded places, then switch to 320 and sand a bit more making sure that you clean the area good to see your progress. Once that's done, get the color you will use, in this case blue and rub it in good, I used a darker one first. let sit for about 2 hrs and use a damp rag to pick up any excess, this will not only take the excess out but it will make the top of the grain lighter making it a more 3D look. let sit for a while to dry. Once it is dry I take a damp rag and wet it to see the actual color it will take when I clear it. This one turned a bit too blue and lighter than the body, so I took a bit of water down black and rubbed it hard on the maple, to just try to push it into the deep grain, once I saw that the grain got the dark shade I was looking for I usd a clean rag again to pick the excess out from the top. This time I rubb faster over the top, but with no pressure against the maple. this will leave the black in the grain and just pick the one that is sitting on the top. I will post pics late today once I get back to the house, and I will try to do a scrap piece to show you what I did.

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I think now I understand the process......with starting with black sanding this back and building up with lighter colors later......you kinda sorta enhance the effects in the maple......and this creates the awesome figuring.

Now it all makes much more sense.......

Edited by RGGR
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The sound is a bit deep, like between the mahogany and the ash body that I made. I will like to have the 81-7 to give you a true perspective, since the one I git is a 707 the output will be less bright than the 81 that I got on the other guitars, but with a bit of Eq on the GNX1 I was able to bring some brightness to it. I like bright sounding guitars, and I know that the figure maple wasn't going to be as bright as regular but I took my chances. I must say that for the next I will hunt a nice honduran or african mahogany, or a good piece of alder, may be even hard maple if I use the figured for a top.

Lee, this is my first ever 7 string, and I think that from now on I will make 7's. I just played the 6 that I made, and I found the neck slim, I'm loving it everyday more. And the 25" scale is a beast, way comfortable, but not tight in the higer frets like the LP, or maybe I'm having illusions, I don't know, but I like it. I'm working on the idea of selling the Epi LP to get some wood money to make another one but flamed, like twins.

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1 sanding sealer the top soaked a lot of it, and about 3-4 including the neck. And (don't scream) I waited 2 days to colrsand polish and put back together after the last coat of clear was on. I was ging to wait a week or so but I tested the paint and it was DRY in 2 days. I did 3 coats a day for 3 days and about 4 hrs between coats, and they were medium coats, about triple pass over the whole body.

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I know after I read on your thread that you used dupli, I heard of people having problem with them, and I had the same thing, my strat and my LP were painted with duplicolor, and both sat in the utility room for almost month and a half, and then when I colorsanded and polished 4 months later the thing was still drying and sunk down a bit. The LP looks like it was not colorsanded at all, I have plans for this babe so I will be doing some major work in a few days on it.

Sorry I didn't catch you in time to warn you, but like I said, I knew that you had used dupli after you posted it. I don't recomend it any more, if I can I will use a water based base like createx and then top with nitro or poly once I get the booth up.

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I'm thinking of wetsanding the top down a bit and spraying a can of the DEFT on top of it. Do you think that will work? Of course I'd have to test for compatability on some scrap...

Another thing about the Duplicolor.... I painted my Joe Satriani style guitar around October of last year I think it was and last week I put it in my Strat case, came back the next day and I could see were the fur made an impression in the paint at the bottom of the guitar.... :D 4 months later, that really sucks!!!

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yeap thats the way that mine was being marked too. I don't think that the DEFT will be compatible with the dupli, both are different based, and dry at different speed so one will make the other to check (or crack). I will advise you that you carefully sand it all the way down to stain, I know this is a lot of work, but in the long run you will be able to play the guitar faster and finish it sooner than if you wait for the dupli to dry. But that's just me, It ain't too hard to do but you have to be very carefull with the top maple, you don't want to get it too wet or it will swell in drilled areas, figured maple love water (or finishes in that matter0 it just soaks them up like a sponge. use a 400 grit wet and the duplicolor should be history realy fast. After this you can restain, sael and coat... not too many options so it's your call.

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Hey Godin, I'm in Maryland and it's being kinda cold during the time that I painted the guitar, so I think that the weather had nothing to do with it. I think that the peopel that had a lot of problem with nitro were not realy using nitro at all. Even Dan e. says to colorsand and polish in a week to be on the careful side.

Maestro, I didn't stain the actual headstock, if that was the case I would have done it the 1st time, I had to add aveneer to from the body wood, and I didn't want to go thru the hassle.

But it turn out awsome, very very good.

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First I want to congratulate you on a very very nice guitar you did. I really like the staining on it, you've came a long ways bro.. Great job.. I also like the way you used black epoxy on the Walnut. :D

I just got started back to building guitars again, since I've been so tied up at work, working 12 hour days and playing in two bands on the weekend doesn't help much. So work has finally slowed down some, I'm looking forward to getting more projects started, and your work has in turn inspired me to get started back soon. I cut the body out yesterday from my template I designed and am ready for neck work.. thanks again for inspiring and following through with such a great guitar.

MaTT Vinson

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thanks Gorecki, David and Matt,

David, I must add again that I couldn't had done it without all the advise you gave me. I can't wait to make another one, but budget is running low so I will have to wait a while. And this one is plays better than the other guitars I got, I love the compound radius that Warmoth put on this neck, I just wish that the freting was as good as the neck is, I think that they slacked a bit there. It is good, but not great, I got a fairly low action, but I know that it can be lower with a neck jig level job.

Gorecki, I am realy proud, everybody I have shown the guitar to, haved asked me how much I paid for it, I had a guy that owns a PRS come and see it at the shop I go to and he said that it was good, he did point a few "flaws" on the paint, but when I told him that I did it with spray cans he almost told me that I was a god!!! (I wish I had a paint booth right now)

Matt, 1st, the black epoxy came from the strat tutorial that you did, I bought it for an ash guitar that I did a few months ago pic after that it has been a trade mark on my guitars, like on this one that got a mahogany back. It is so easier to fill the grain with it, that it will be on all my guitars from now on, I might use the clear one, but it will be epoxy. I'm glad that I had inspired you to start again, because I looked at you guys when I joined here and that was what inspired me.

Thanks,

Francisco

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