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7 String Js Meets Rg/vai


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OK now I've said about this guitar before but now i have all my parts and no more reasons not to build. I'm also going to guitar-x in 5 weeks and have to have this build done by then...

So the specs.

7 string fixed bridge (hipshot)

25.5" scale 24 fret neck Maple with rosewood FB

Top 4 frets are scalloped (20-24)

Q tuner pickup (BXL)

1 volume pot

Body is an unknown wood (well i cant remember) but its very similar to maple

As the topic says its a mix between the JS and RGs for the body shape... basically the back end is JS and the horns are RG (slightly tweaked) i will post some pictures soon, as tomorrow i should have everything cut out and ready for body contours (which may also be done).

I'm currently deciding on finish I'm thinking probably natural (just oiled) as it will cost me the least amount of money (as i can do it myself) and i can always paint it at a later date.

T

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Hey sorry guys been a week but i have pictures i will sort them out either later today or tomorow.

T

EDIT : PICTURES!!

Ok i found time now so here they are its just placed together so you can see how its gonna look finished.

DSC_0155.JPG

!!WARNING HUGE PICTURES!! if there are any requests for smaller ones i will do them

pic 2

pic 3

next im going to drill the holes for the neck and contour the heel, then do alot of sanding.

Still trying to decide on a finish im thinking either natural or blue.

T

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What is that thing :D what does it do? does it have some kinda of a cover?

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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BL (high-Z, medium-Z) BXL (high-Z, medium-Z) Neodymium powered 30Hz-13kHz Q-tuner for 4, 5 or 6 string electric bass.

The object of advanced magnetic circuit design is the provision of a magnetic field of sufficient strength and stability over the volume, and with the adaptability required for the application. In keeping with this, the BL model is plotted by means of CAD to provide a multi –dimensional magnetic field to react with a total string --to –string span up to three inches.

The arrangement shown, allows for minute alterations of the flux distribution underneath each string ;

refer to the harmonic ratio's page. on how to optimize the Q- factor.

The method described there, lends itself particularly well to avoid clipping of the pre-amp caused by a booming sub-low string and/or to fine-tune the balance between low, mid and high harmonic progressions.

Spectrum analysis of such progressions shows a bulk activity of frequencies below 7 kHz of which some, occasionally, discharge all the way up 12 kHz. Hence the higher the frequency range and dynamics the greater is the need to expand the technical and expressive frontiers of the electric bass.

That makes no sense to me what so ever lol :D

~~ Slain Angel ~~

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Tommy.....are you working of a RG Cad drawing???

Cause your RG body shape seems reasonably in order.....but arm contour and body cut seem far off, and not sharp defined.

I can provide you with proper files if you need them. Google for free cad viewer or go to packetnews.com (MIRC) for latest AutoCAD copy.

*** Not promoting illegal downloading***

You mention doing something like JS meets RG......but where exactly does the JS shape come in. I expected you to take the RG shape and give it a JS contour, or is this still to come......

Also nothing against doing own intrepretation of RG.......just keep everything tight.

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lol ive done the contours to suit me and how i find it comfortable... but also i took the same angle but cuz that back bit is slanted like on the JS so it seems smaller.

Also the pickup is just supposed to sound amazingly clean and have crazy harmonics i will give some sound samples once its up...

And also for the sizes i photoshoped the front and back of an RG (horns right side) and JS (arm rest area so left side) and then copied that into corel draw then traced it to get it more accurate.

Heres a kinda quick mock up ive just done as i deleted the original i made.

jem%20meets%20js.jpg

Added: oh and there arnt any chips its just where ive had to knife around the edge where it was slightly thicker (a fraction of a mm) and didnt go all the way through. when i sand it they will all go.

T

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Brian sells a nut that coens to replace the locking nut for floyds.

http://universaljems.com/cart/nutsgraphite.htm

look here, the first ones there

If he can't get the 7 string one, you can use a regular Gibson style 7 string nut, you will have to file down a little bit of the fretboard overhang, but it will work, I replaced the locking nut on my jackson neck with a gibson nut and it is just fine

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Not correct. If he uses a locking nut and tightens the nut, the strings can possibly (and quite probably with a cheap locking nut) go out of tune and since he can't tune at the bridge, he'll be stuck with bad tuning.

A locking nut is designed to lock strings in place, thus are high friction, by using the base, but not the actual lock he's increasing his chances of nut-based tuning problems (the type that, with a regular nut, you'd probably fix with a pencil or a drop of lube). He'd reduce the probability of having these problems if he locked down the nut.

But, in the end it might be 6 of one a half dozen of the other.

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Well as Faylya said if i use the locking nut on it it will be quite likly that it will go slightly out of tune then with no fine tuners i cant fix that. However if i do get problems with it then i will give the gibson one a go if i can find them locally as including transport to the uk it wont make it worth while getting it from brian cuz its such a small thing, and im on a bit of a tight budget at the moment.

Thanks for the help guys.

T

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Ok small update ive sanded it to get rid of the burn marks and smoothed out the contours. Im really happy with the arm rest and belly cut out as they are quite "roundy" like on the js and suits the guitar quite well. Im drilling out the neck holes this evening (hopfully) and then sorting out the heal over the next day or 2 (if i have time) then lots of sanding.

For the finish ive decided on a charcoal burst like this one -

charcoal%20burst.jpg

But there will be no join in the middle (obviously) as its one piece body, and wont be as extreme as on this one.

And i will sort out the nut if i have to and decide then. (would quite like a metal one)

T

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heal was rounded today and holes drilled for neck, perfect fit everything seems ok so far! :D now i just need to cut out the holes for the bridge.

T

ADDED: here are some pics, next im doing the bridge which has all been marked out now i just need to buy some screws, how long should they be roughly? as i have to go out and buy some.

pic1

pic2

pic3

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  • 3 weeks later...
Lower horn seems very flimsy to me. I also would spend little more time on AANJ transition on neck. There is almost 1/2" of dead space on the neck.....this could be done more tightly. Meaning bringing the neck transition closer to body.

Body shape is interesting one.

the space looks a bit too much, but from experience I found out that this is just an aesthetic situation. I redid my Jackson and neck because of the same thing, but came to find that I didn't felt any difference between both, by the time that your palm reacher that heel on the neck you are already over the AANJ.

So I decided to leave my strat neck stock (Carvin) and I don't regret it, BUT, following the contour DO make a nice visual improvement.

The lower horn DO look skinny, but that is OK, Now that piece of maple was calling out loud for a nice deep carve body... I wish I can get one like that once I decide to make another one.

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Ive sorted the neck out already and i cant feel much difference but looks alot better, and i know that the bottom horn does look tiny but its actually the same as on my rg i think it must have been the angle of the pic or something. But update pics in the next couple of days.

Oh and the piece of wood im using came from a huge plank that i have loads left of will have to go towards my PRS that i will one day make... but i have so many guitars i want to build.

T

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