guitar2005 Posted September 24, 2005 Report Share Posted September 24, 2005 Has anyone here ever tried cutting inlays with a dremel saw? I've never cut inlays before and it seems to me like the dremel would be a great tool because it has: Good support Lighting Variable Speed A blower nozzle. Any comments? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted September 24, 2005 Report Share Posted September 24, 2005 there are two main methods, used by all proffessionals: 1. cutting with a jewelers saw, by hand 2. invest many thousands (hundreds of thou?) in CNC machinery. the dremel sax is a BAD idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clavin Posted September 24, 2005 Report Share Posted September 24, 2005 I know people that cut abalam strips with a dremel, or other easy shaped patterns, but when it comes to details or other areas where there are tight curves to be cut, or joining pieces together, either piercing or some other technique, it's going to be unwielding in it's kerf size. Translation- It won't work that well. Mainly due to it's kerf size. C.Lavin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPL Posted September 24, 2005 Report Share Posted September 24, 2005 Doesn't the Dremel saw accept pinless jeweler's saw blades? I know it would take a damned light touch and a slow speed to avoid breaking the finest blades but I would think it could be done. Maybe not the best way but possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted September 24, 2005 Report Share Posted September 24, 2005 there's nothing stopping you from investing a few bucks in a jeweler's saw and blades. It's not cost prohibitive in the least bit. Why do it at all if you're not going to do it right? Jewelers saws can cut quickly and accurately with enough patience and practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPL Posted September 24, 2005 Report Share Posted September 24, 2005 there's nothing stopping you from investing a few bucks in a jeweler's saw and blades. It's not cost prohibitive in the least bit. Why do it at all if you're not going to do it right? Jewelers saws can cut quickly and accurately with enough patience and practice. ← I own both and have used both, mostly with metals and soft stone, and both tools can do an exceptional job. Each has their streangths. The main advantages of sawing by hand is the more sensitive feedback from the blade and the infinate variable speed. To me the scroll saw took much more practice and patience. If I had to choose one I would saw by hand till the cows come home but I'm not tossing my scroll saw, it's been a good friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 Oh, I didn't even realize the "dremel saw" was a scroll saw. Well, that doesn't really change much. Obviously hand sawing is still the way to go unless you have a dead accurate setup and some nice jigs. Even so, you'd only be able to do as much as straight strips, radiused strips, and blocks with jigs. I find using a jeweler's saw to be very calming...well, except when I cut my thumb to the bone when the inlay breaks. That was unpleasant. Nothing a band-aid couldn't fix though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cSuttle Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 +1 to all the comments here. Hand saw. My favorite blade of most materials is 02. Buy a bunch of blades, they break easy, especially when you're learning. They're cheap too, like a package of 12 is about $3.50. Of course CAM is really the way to go if you can afford it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPL Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 A jig for a scroll saw? I guess it could be done but I've never thought of a scroll saw as anything other than a freehand tool. With a good foot feed variable speed control it can be every bit as accurate as hand sawing. I used to do a lot of coin piercing (I still can't look at a quarter without seeing a pipe in george's mouth) and while I found hand sawing more relaxing sometimes production and arm fatigue demanded that I switch to the power saw. Nothing will ever replace a good jewler's saw frame and every novice should start with one but don't rule out other tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclej Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 one major problem with using a scroll saw is safely handeling the smaller pieces used in the average inlay...i've done a great deal of intarsia and a fair amount of inlay using wood as the inlay material. i made a zero clearance auxilliary table top and it works fine. i bought my jeweler's saw when i tried to use my setup to cut some thin sheet silver for an inlay and the blade would grab the silver and yank it out of my hand..beat the devil out of my fingers before i could move them. like the guys say, jeweler's saws aren't very expensive and the control you gain along with the benefit of not losing fingers make them a worthwhile investment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPL Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 like the guys say, jeweler's saws aren't very expensive and the control you gain along with the benefit of not losing fingers make them a worthwhile investment. ← A good German or Swiss saw frame is about $10. Spend the extra bucks on good blades. Years ago I got a "good deal" on a gross of cheap blades, I still have most of them around here somewhere. It didn't take long before I realised that the expensive blades were cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted September 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 Doesn't the Dremel saw accept pinless jeweler's saw blades? ← They do accept the pinless jewler's was blades and I have some. Being able to control the workpiece with two hands instead on one seems like a real advantage vs the "traditional" method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPL Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 We'll see if you still say that the first time a blade breaks and several pieces of sharp, greasy metal imbed them selves into your flesh. If you insist slow it way down and let the blade do the cutting, don't push at all. 30-60 strokes per minute is not too slow, often that's way too fast. Give it a try if you like and then go buy a saw frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
criss Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 I use the dremel to cut out my inlays . Ouick and easy . i won't bother with the saw again unless it was very intricate . i use spray adhesive to attach my pattern and used the dremel stone to do the final shapeing . In my view if your cutting out your average inlays , Shark fins , blocks , bowties , sculls etc , the dremel wins hands down . I can knock out a set in easy 1/4 the time it takes by saw . You do waste a little bit more MOP but its really not a issue as the waste is nt really that great . If you do use a dremel , wear goggles and a mask , MOP stinks when it gets hit hard with a dremel and there s lots of dust you don't want to breath in . And you gotta look after your eyes from the flying dust etc If you ve got a dremel give it a go , use the stone type wheels etc . Dead easy even for a newbie . Quicker , no busted blades and good results . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 can someone provide a link for the dremel attachment?? i can only find the circular saw type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPL Posted September 25, 2005 Report Share Posted September 25, 2005 can someone provide a link for the dremel attachment?? i can only find the circular saw type. ← It's not an attachment, it's just a proper scroll saw made by dremel. A quick search came up with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted November 10, 2005 Report Share Posted November 10, 2005 I use my Dremel and fine burrs/high-speed cutters to do my RECON STONE (only the strong types) to cut out my inlays. Your hands get pretty close... but these bits a REALLY small and have low grit... so it's not TOO dangerous.. nothing bad yet. Like this set: http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/d...urr-cutter/OD06 Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted September 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 Ok - I'll use a non-powered tool to cut the inlays based on your feedback. Problem is finding the right tool. Would something like this work? http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...t=1,42884,42902 or this: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...t=1,42884,42902 or this: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...t=1,42884,42902 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topper Posted September 27, 2006 Report Share Posted September 27, 2006 http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...t=1,42884,42902 Thats the one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THIRSTYGUMS Posted September 28, 2006 Report Share Posted September 28, 2006 A jewellers saw is by far the quickest, cheapest, most accurate and painless way to do it! Ive broken 20 carbide drill bits in my pearl blocks and only about 3 saw blades so far. Try it, it sounds old school and laborious to use a hand tool, but it is by far the best way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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