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The "tang Top"


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Overall excellent. Choice of woods are fantastic. But I don't know in real life, but from the pictures in GOTM to me looks like there is:

1. Lack of detail of gentle care in some places (e.g.neck joint glue etc.)

2. Not enough high grit sanding between laquer layers leading to a not so fantastically glossy finish.

2. Proper measurements and placement of hardware. (Some look off from the pics).

Nevertheless, these may not be noticable from a rocking crowd so, carry on! Great work. If it sounds and plays well then who cares what the guitar looks like huh? NOt meaning a bad way.

That has to be the dumbest post I've read all week. You insulted his guitar and craftsmanship and then have the nerve to say "not meaning a bad way". What's up with that? I'd like to see the "Rokeros AT1" CNC-bot even come close to the level of quality garehan's put into his project.

Grow up.

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I will see if I can get better photos, but it was pretty hard to get them that nice to begin with, lol. That's what happens when you know nothing about photography.

Overall excellent. Choice of woods are fantastic. But I don't know in real life, but from the pictures in GOTM to me looks like there is:

1. Lack of detail of gentle care in some places (e.g.neck joint glue etc.)

2. Not enough high grit sanding between laquer layers leading to a not so fantastically glossy finish.

2. Proper measurements and placement of hardware. (Some look off from the pics).

Nevertheless, these may not be noticable from a rocking crowd so, carry on! Great work. If it sounds and plays well then who cares what the guitar looks like huh? NOt meaning a bad way.

1. there's not so much as a glue line in the neck joint. I don't know if I even needed glue. I think you're seeing a reflection of clear coat on the heel cap and a bit of polishing compound, which can be incredibly hard to clean from certain areas...but you already know that from your vast experience.

The rest of the complaints are unsubstantiated.

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I'll take some in the parking lot behind my dorm tomorrow, it's out in the open. If it's any indication, I might be gettting a comission as a result of this guitar :D . Being good at building isn't enough, you have to be good at building and taking pictures, good grief.

peace,

russ

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dude. I sorry. Chances are most likely to be from the pics and not your fault. I sure some clearer pictures will make all the difference. I hope you are not affected by my comments. I am not worthy. Trust me. My work would never be near your standards.

PLease don't think wrong of me, I apolagize. It was only http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f59/theg...an/a9358685.jpg

which you posted that made me think. Oh what is that white line arounf the neck to body area? I assume now its just reflection of the lacquer.

PS :(crafty), if you can get a body up and running including finishing from lumber in just a fortnight then I would be very surprised. WHy else do you think that I am so eager to get comments? ANd using a CNC? If I could have all the time I want, then I would definately make my guitar by hand. I spent 6 hrs last week polishing my neck with a 2x2 inch fret polish cloth just to meet my deadline. I couldn't even play the next day as my hands were dead! So no, maybe my work will not meet garhan's cabability, but what choice do I have? And nice of you to tell me to grow up? Ecsepically when i'm15 years of age???

Edited by rokeros
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Overall excellent. Choice of woods are fantastic. But I don't know in real life, but from the pictures in GOTM to me looks like there is:

1. Lack of detail of gentle care in some places (e.g.neck joint glue etc.)

2. Not enough high grit sanding between laquer layers leading to a not so fantastically glossy finish.

2. Proper measurements and placement of hardware. (Some look off from the pics).

Nevertheless, these may not be noticable from a rocking crowd so, carry on! Great work. If it sounds and plays well then who cares what the guitar looks like huh? NOt meaning a bad way.

Hardware placement looks just fine (And honestly, just because it might 'look off' in a picture tells you more about picture-taking-skills than it does about whether something's actually off-center or not). Gloss finish looks fine, great, and you don't need to do high-grit sanding between lacquer layers. You just Don't. Whether it's buffed out great or not...far as I can tell, yes, but it ain't easy getting a good picture of a high-gloss black guitar. I also don't see glue near the neck joint. Maybe a trick of the light, maybe just an annoying place to buff (I know that's true).

I'm not wild about the shape myself, but it's a very well executed guitar.

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Well, congratulations. I wish you hadn't put this into this months GOTM as there are already so many entries...cest la vie

Anyway, one shouldn't see past the point of this guitar. I really like the details and the idea of the segmented top. Sure, the guitar's shape is no doubt an aquired taste, but the unique combination of materials and features is surely a sight to behold.

My only real disapointment is that the thing is black...it this thing was lime or orange or even a lemon on top...something really tangy, that top would stand out so much and be so vivid, the last thing you'd be noticing is picky little construction details...even the shape could be secondary. As it is, this one is black and a successfull prototype of the concept.

In a world of flame topped guitars, this one is unique. If I were to order one I'd probably go for a bit of a modification to the shape and a more conventional trem...and a very vivid top color...but hey, that's me...this one is black, who knows what the next one will be. The fact that there will be a next one is proof of it's effectiveness, and no photo can really do something like this justice...

good on ya... pete

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Hold on...rokeros has the right to make to his comments. From what I can read (since he edited his original post), there was no personal attack at all in what he wrote. He's raising some serious points or questions about the build --it's Russ's fault that he put up such shoddy pictures.

Because frankly, judging the guitar from those photos can only lead to disappointment after all the hype about this guitar. I mean, I know Russ likes to talk himself up, but still...he's one of the most critical people on this board when it comes to other people's work. He should be able to take the criticism--and doesn't need other people to defend him either.

With all the work he's put into the guitar, all the ideas he's trying out...the photos just disappoint, that's all.

I'll reserve my own judgment on this guitar until he gets some decent photos up there --sunlight or good indoor lighting will help -- because the guitar presented in THOSE photos is a mess (aesthetically if not technically). I'm sure decent photos will prove that wrong.

But jumping on rokeros for pointing that out is not fair.

And yes, if you want to sell your work (even to the GOTM crowd), presentation is important.

How about finding someone to take the photos for you? I'm sure there are plenty of people at your school who would jump at the chance to take on this job. Surely there's a photography section there? This is the perfect chance for them to hone their skills at product photography.

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Agreed. Provided people keep a civil tongue in their head, constructive criticism has a valuable place. I know this runs contrary to Brian's policy of 'if you've nothing nice to say, say nothing' but I would want to know if there were aspects of my work which could benefit from extra attention. Whenever you work on a project for a long time, you risk losing perspective and as such getting independant feedback is important.

In that spirit: I'm pretty sure that's buffing compound in the right angle formed by the neck meeting the body. Yes, it's a bear to get rid of it, but it needs to be gone, it looks nasty.

More troubling though, is the dark staining around the side dots - I don't know how that happened, but it looks like CA seeped into the limba when the dots were glued in. This is symptomatic of a wider issue - the detail work on the guitar. The design called for lots of detailing, and as such you have to be painstaking in getting the detailing right, otherwise you risk spoiling the bigger picture. IMO, the details let this guitar down.

There is also an unpleasantly obvious joint in the binding at the fretboard end. This area looks much better if you extend the side pieces over the end section - rather than vice-versa. That way, the neck pickup conceals any endgrain. It looks best if you mitre it, though that's an extra fiddle. Whichever way, you need to keep the glue lines invisible, you can't get away with less than a perfect fit on white/light binding material. You also rounded over the fretboard edges much more than the end of the fretboard, so the limba binding looks much thicker in this area.

This problem is evident again on the headstock, the purfling should be mitred, and more care should be taken to keep the binding of even thickness. Having got the thickness perfect, you have to round it over very evenly, or you risk making the thickness appear uneven again! I also think the moved tuners are too apparent, as is the grafted fretboard end.

So, the bad stuff out of the way; I love the design. The body looks to be very nicely executed, and the black veneer between the body and matching back looks great - especially by the cutaways, where you drop down a level to give better fret access. That's a detail that really works. Same is true of the pickup covers, they look fantastic. The woods are stunning through out, beautiful flame on the neck, and lovely figuring in the limba back. The clear really popped the contrast between the pale wood and the dak swirls.

Overall, great design, lovely conception, but let down by the execution of the detail work.

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This problem is evident again on the headstock, the purfling should be mitred, and more care should be taken to keep the binding of even thickness. Having got the thickness perfect, you have to round it over very evenly, or you risk making the thickness appear uneven again! I also think the moved tuners are too apparent, as is the grafted fretboard end.

When creative criticism is presented in the right way, I appreciate it. Fortunately, I had already realised every flaw that's been pointed out. The sidedots, well, that was meant to mimic the burst that was going to go on the top. It didn't go perfectly, so it doesn't look exactly how I'd wanted. However, in person, it really just looks "right" with the limba. I actually recieved a complement on just that from another guitar player. The purfling: yes, it's butt jointed. I normally mitre, but I remember seeing a guitar I liked somewhere that had the purfling butted, so I figured I'd give it a go.

Fortunately, this is only guitar number 3; so I figure I'm headed in the right direction. I really do appreciate the criticism from seasoned vets.

peace,

russ

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Fortunately, this is only guitar number 3; so I figure I'm headed in the right direction. I really do appreciate the criticism from seasoned vets.

peace,

russ

No doubt, it's still a nice piece of work. Keep doing it and you'll be kicking all kind of arse in no time at all. Don't be shy about presenting the same kind of critique on my work when I post it. We all like the 'oooh - wow!' comments, but it's the faults which present the best chance of really improving your game. BTW, I meant to ask, how do you like the overwound p90's, and how's the stetsbar to use?

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Trust me, I know garehan. We give each other s**t all the time on AIM every couple a nights. I know he can take it (as well as give it out). And like he said, when the criticism is presented in a factual objective way it's fine, especially when it comes from someone that knows what they're talking about. But when you start criticizing things about the guitar that AREN'T wrong, like the need of more high grit between coats?, and hardware placement, then you're crossing the line. Or if you use purposefully derogatory language... like they said above, be civil. If you can do that, I think criticism is MORE than welcomed.

Also, going back to the "who it's coming from thing". It's alot better for the vets to say the stuff cause they really know what they're on about. It's kinda like if your friend makes fun of you... you can take it, cause he's your friend and you allow it. But when some little punk comes in who doesn't know you and says the same thing.... he's jsut ASKING for a reaction.

My 2 cents.

Chris

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No doubt, it's still a nice piece of work. Keep doing it and you'll be kicking all kind of arse in no time at all. Don't be shy about presenting the same kind of critique on my work when I post it. We all like the 'oooh - wow!' comments, but it's the faults which present the best chance of really improving your game. BTW, I meant to ask, how do you like the overwound p90's, and how's the stetsbar to use?

The KA overwound P90's are great. With the neck, neck&bridge parallel, neck&bridge series, bridge switching I have, there's a lot of versatility. The neck and parallel offer a tight treble with a quacky bass, which is more obvious with the neck alone. The parallel option gives it a humbucking lead tone, which I'd equate to a SD JB. The bridge alone actually sounds just like you'd expect the bridge humbucker on a paul to sound. I should note though, that I doubt these would sound quite as good with plastic covers :D(or at least that's what Ed Roman tells me) . My only complaint is that they don't seem as high output as I had expected them to be, although I'm starting to think this is a good thing. I didn't check the resistance on them, so I can't correlate any of that information to actual numbers though. Let me just say that you're definitely getting your money's worth.

The stetsbar is quite nice. It's machined very well. No quality complaints whatsoever. You can drop and raise the pitch, and the amount that you drop or raise the note is controllable via two rear mounted allen screws. The range for raising and lowering the pitch is respectable, but I haven't actually measured it yet. Another nice feature is that it linearly detunes, rather than radially. This means that when you drop the note, the action doesn't get any higher and when you raise the note, you don't risk laying the strings on the fretboard. You'd think not raising the action while dropping the pitch would be a major problem, but I have no such complaints, even when I had the action adjusted lower than I find to be comfortable. My only complaint with the stetsbar is that you have to watch out that the TOM doesn't fall off and ding your guitar when you take the strings off. The tom has two allen set screws in it that adjust the height. It simply sits on these set screws in two small holes on the base. When strung, that makes no difference, but it doesn't stay attached so well when unstrung. I realize you have this problem with all toms, but it seems to be a bit exaggerated in this case. One major problem with the trem on this guitar is that it reminded me that I'm not so well adapted to using tremelos, :D .

peace,

russ

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Ahhh much much better :D

I totally agree with everything setch said.

My two small recomendations are

1. I don't like the wood you made the knobs out of. It's just my personal preference but I like to see less grain in wooden knobs. A nice understated knob made out of black ebony would have been a much better design choice IMHO.

2. I liked it by itself but now that I see the pickguard on the finished guitar I don't really like the fact that it's two toned. Again a more understated one maybe made out of ebony would go much better with the rest of the guitar.

I really like the way the top turned out. It looks great now that you can see it with better pics. I'm also really digging the open geared tuners. Soooo cool. I might have to try that some time B)

I also really like the use of the setsbar trem. Really goes well with the overall feel of this guitar. :D

BTW Would you mind sharing your wireing schematic for the rotary switch?

Edited by Godin SD
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There we go, much nicer pics!

I echo the 'mitre purflings' sentiment, and if you're gonna inlay on lighter woods, even more care is called for. I'm not really sure I like the pickguard in broader context; it clutters the top a little too much for my tastes, particulary in combination with the odd control layout it gives you (one knob on-guard, one off). It's not a very big/wide guitar, so it needs a little more room to 'breathe', I think. Still, that's a fantastic #3!

Also, how do you like the open-backed Sperzels?

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1. I don't like the wood you made the knobs out of. It's just my personal preference but I like to see less grain in wooden knobs. A nice understated knob made out of black ebony would have been a much better design choice IMHO.

I like the knobs a lot. Although, I can't take credit for making them; I bought them from allparts. Dear santa, please bring me a lathe for christmas.

Also, how do you like the open-backed Sperzels?

The open backed sperzels work great. Very stable tuning, even without an actual locking feature, and man do they look sexy in person. This guitar really isn't falling victim to detuning as a result of the trem. I'm sure the sperzel's design and the graphite nut help avoid that. My only complaint is that the finish isn't as durable as it could be. The nuts chipped a bit when I was screwing them in(and that was done with a socket turned by my fingers, rather than a socket driver).

Now, the big problem I have is that, every time I click on the link to the GOTM thread, my browser somehow chooses to land on that photo of Metal Matt...scares the hell out of me every time

Dude, metal matt's just like a big teady bear; how can you be scared by that?

Say what you like about clutter and what not, but I'm loving this guitar. All is well in the world of russell.

peace,

russ

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It looks 200% better in those photos. The other set focused attention on the details (where the niggles are) and didn't present a good 'overall' image. I still stand by all my comments, but they are really pushed into the background by the whole ensemble. Like Idch said, they seem pretty minor now the big picture is more apparent.

Nice one Rus :D

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