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fingerboard thickness


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So i'm cutting all the blanks up for a neck thru guitar, body wings, neck, and i got my peice of zircote 1x3 and i'm about to cut it into 3 fingerboard blanks but i don't know if i'm supposed to cut it into 3/8 thickness, or the standard 1/4? :D Keep in mind i don't want to do an tilted back neck. So i think my only 2 options are, 1/4 thickness, but then when i'm planing my body blank i'm going to have to somehow leave the area under the fingerboard 1/8 higher then the body which should be fun to try and make a jig for since i don't have a pin router. Or go with a 3/8 thick fingerboard, but i'm concerened that's going to look way to thick, and it's also going to push the truss rod deaper into the neck, which would be bad if i try and contour the back of the neck for a super slim wizard profile.

B)

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Angle the neck.

Draw it all out on a big sheet of paper, calculate how much angle will give you a good action, and set this angle when you glue the wings to the body. When it's all glued up, plane the neck through flush with the front and bakc of the body wings.

Do you have Hiscock's book?

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Really nothing to do with the question, but who is hiscock and what is his book?

Timbo :D

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The best guitar building book in the business! you can order it off amazon and its called "how to build your own electric guitar" by melvyn hiscock. It tell s you every thing you need to know really and teaches you how to build 2 guitars and one bass, but you can alter things if you want. Bear in mind though, there is no actual plans, you've got to do that your self(he mensions a bout this in the book)

Rob

(hey I've just become a forum regular :D )

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thanks for all the answers guys :D

G_urr_A -> it's a strat style hardtail bridge (the best kind if u ask me) if i was using a floyd i know what ur thinking, i could just rout the cavity a bit deeper into the guitar. but then i'd have to do the same with the pickups, and they're rings... And i'm already doing a guitar like that, take a look HERE . BUT, i think i've came up with an idea how to rout the top of the guitar (instead of planning it) and to leave the area under the FB so that it's higher then the body. I'll be sure to take lots of pics and see if brian wants it for a tutorial. (thisis going to be one monster jig)

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Hmmm.... I guess I should learn to read.

If you want a raised f'board, simply glue the wings so they sit lower than the surface of the neck through section, then route or plane the centre section down till it's flush with the rest of the body.

This is also covered in 'Make your own electric guitar' - see page 136 if you have a copy, otherwise, BUY ONE! :D

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I've often thought and wondered how recessing the whole lot would work. I'll explain.

Imagine a 21 fret strat. Drop top, with thicker than normal body, so the fretboard is nearly flush to the body. Recess the bridge AND the scratchplate to get normal clearance. with any fretboard with an overhang, obviously you would need to recess for that too. I think it would look good with a nice flame top.

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....strat style hardtail bridges are imho perfect for use with an un-angled neck.

i just did a little math..... unless i grinded down the little allen screws that support each saddle, there's going to be a 0.209" action on the guitar, and that's with ultra high jumbo frets. So if i either sink the bridge into the guitar 0.2" or leave a 3/16" rise for the fingerboard i should be ok. Course now i've started thinking "well, i don't own an angled neck guitar, and it would be nice to try one out :D

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ya i only play 25.5 ... hmmm i wanted to do a non angled neck so i could get some fingerboard blanks out of the smae peice of wood.... but that angle is starting to look nicer and nicer.... :D

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