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Posted

hello everybody,I am currently working on a prs style ,i didnt have enough material for the neck stock to portrude a bit longer so I ended up with a vvery small gluing surface,you can see in the pictures what i am talking about ,my question is ; is this gonna work or to unsafe and likely to collapse at one point? thanks for your time its greatly appreciated.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture007.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture006.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture005.jpg

Posted

I know you don't want ot hear it, but I don't think that's enough area to be structurally sound.

Put the neck aside, and use it on a single cut, and make a new neck with a longer blank.

Your workmanship looks lovely, but you really need to work on your planning to avoid this kind of thing happening.

Posted

Let me throw a different idea out there... Why not cut about 1" thickness off the heel and laminate on another matching or contrasting wood(perhaps even put some veneers in there to make it look even more intentional) that's about 1" thick total. That'll give you enough lumber to get yourself under the neck pickup and strengthen the joint.

peace,

russ

Posted

just what i pressumed,you are right i didnt wanna hear it ,the neck hasnt been carved yet and the heel is not gonna be like that at all,man i really hate when these things happen ,oh well!! live and learn right?,thank you very much for the quick responses.

Posted

hey man I really like Russ's idea of the extension , but then again I dont know, wouldnt it be the same though?

Posted

Here's another, less appearance altering idea...

Slice off the heel on the current neck, plane the back of the neck and the top of the piece of heel you removed smooth. Then just glue the heel back on but about 2" forward. With such a dark wood, there's a very good chance that the seam will be almost entirely imperceptible.

Posted

Sorry Russ... but I've got to agree that unless he makes it so that he's got one fatty heel al la real PRS style/length, whether he lams on a new heel or not it's not gunna give him much/enough surface to work with. I'm going to have to agree with Setch that he needs to save it for a single cut. Might I even suggest doing a MODERN single cut with it? (thick scott french's olive green headless guitar's body style)

Chris

Posted

Add about 1.5" in length and .75" in depth under the pickup and he'll be good. Why do I think this, chris? Because I've done it. Slice it up like I recomend and it'll work. I'm very confident about that statement.

Posted

I would have no issue with doing what Russ suggested. I would say the the splice would look respectable if it is done cleanly. Looks like you have about an inch into the body now an extra inch under the neck PU would give a fair amount of surface area for your glue joint.

Peace,Rich

Posted

look at the photos of the heel on this guitar

http://www.universaljems.com/cart/ht10/ht10.htm

It looks the same as yours basically, but with the bottom bit cut off and moved along to give it a longer tennon type thing to hold it in the neck pocket.

maybe stick some veneer inbetween the 2 pieces to make it look intentional

I have the guitar in the pics, and I can assure you that the neck joint is perfectly strong

BTW- after scrolling up I just realised that Russ already described the exact same thing...

I guess the only useful thing in this post is the pics then :D

Posted

You could (maybe) drill into the neck and put some thick dowls sticking out the neck. Then you could drill into the body and glue the dowls in to hold it all tight. HOWEVER, I think that with something as critical as the neck joint (in terms of strength and accuracy) this would be nigh on impossible.

I'd put it to the side and start again. You'll end up using the wood for something one day so it wont be wasted.

Good luck :D

Posted

Here's another, less appearance altering idea...

Slice off the heel on the current neck, plane the back of the neck and the top of the piece of heel you removed smooth. Then just glue the heel back on but about 2" forward. With such a dark wood, there's a very good chance that the seam will be almost entirely imperceptible.

i think you are very right,i have glued rosewood before and it s hard to find the seam,maybe it wont show at all depending of course in how good i do it ,are you very certain it wont collapse though?, i really dont wanna build another neck for it , as you can tell,this really sound like a good idea to me.

Posted

Well, I can't tell you I'm certain it won't collapse. That's dependent on many factors such as wood stability(of both body and neck), contstruction quality, glue joint quality, etc. You can make a better judgement of your work than I can. However, I'm confident if it's all up to stuff(which it appears to be), that it'll be fine. I had about the same amount of wood to work with on the tank top that I build a few months back...and that was black limba, not rosewood.

peace,

russ

Posted

Forgive me if I seem a little obtuse regarding this type of joint on the neck, but could you set everything back the same distance, so if youhave to route say 3/4" extra for the joint just set the bridge, pickups etc back the same distance.

I'm sure theres a good reason why it can't be done as it hasn't been mentioned yet, but I would like to know anyway

Posted

Forgive me if I seem a little obtuse regarding this type of joint on the neck, but could you set everything back the same distance, so if youhave to route say 3/4" extra for the joint just set the bridge, pickups etc back the same distance.

I'm sure theres a good reason why it can't be done as it hasn't been mentioned yet, but I would like to know anyway

that would work but it looks like he carved everything allready...

Posted

that s it I am officially letting this go to another project and building another neck, I might as well ,I have some flatsawn heavy figured maple i intend to use, do you think if I keep it on the beefy side ,i wouldnt need the reinforcement carbon rods?,well that is the plan for now,another option is,splice it in half and just laminate it ,i dont know yet.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture018.jpg

Posted

triple post? :D

they are expensive for one,but then again that s probably not a valid excuse since i should spend money if i want it good ,but also I havent done it before and I ve heard some people say it s more likely to get dead spots in you neck or something like that ,I wouldnt know how true that is ,but i just dont feel very tempted to use them unless i m assured that i need to,if it makes any sense.

Posted

I think you've got your facts backwards. Most people say they notice less dead spots with cf rods. Personally, I haven't noticed dead spots one way or the other. You can get cf rods and tubes for next to nothing at hobby-lobby.com .

Posted

hello everybody,I am currently working on a prs style ,i didnt have enough material for the neck stock to portrude a bit longer so I ended up with a vvery small gluing surface,you can see in the pictures what i am talking about ,my question is ; is this gonna work or to unsafe and likely to collapse at one point? thanks for your time its greatly appreciated.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture007.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture006.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture005.jpg

I'm not one to nomally say it wont work, but

I think you might want to add some material to the neck for the tenon as others have said. Check out my site with the add on for a bolt on to a set neck this may help with a way to make you neck work.

http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/firstbuild.html

I hope the first few pics help?

MK

Posted

that s it I am officially letting this go to another project and building another neck, I might as well ,I have some flatsawn heavy figured maple i intend to use

If it's really nice wood, it maybe better leaving that for a future project and using something a bit cheaper.

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