olyen Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 hello everybody,I am currently working on a prs style ,i didnt have enough material for the neck stock to portrude a bit longer so I ended up with a vvery small gluing surface,you can see in the pictures what i am talking about ,my question is ; is this gonna work or to unsafe and likely to collapse at one point? thanks for your time its greatly appreciated. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture007.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture006.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture005.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 I'd say "too unsafe most likely to collapse the first time you tighten up a set of strings on it" WAY to small a pocket buddy. And that's one killer huge neck heel too?? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs man Posted September 6, 2006 Report Share Posted September 6, 2006 the neck tenon should go under thew front pickup you my not have enough glue surface into the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 I know you don't want ot hear it, but I don't think that's enough area to be structurally sound. Put the neck aside, and use it on a single cut, and make a new neck with a longer blank. Your workmanship looks lovely, but you really need to work on your planning to avoid this kind of thing happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Let me throw a different idea out there... Why not cut about 1" thickness off the heel and laminate on another matching or contrasting wood(perhaps even put some veneers in there to make it look even more intentional) that's about 1" thick total. That'll give you enough lumber to get yourself under the neck pickup and strengthen the joint. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyen Posted September 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 just what i pressumed,you are right i didnt wanna hear it ,the neck hasnt been carved yet and the heel is not gonna be like that at all,man i really hate when these things happen ,oh well!! live and learn right?,thank you very much for the quick responses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyen Posted September 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 hey man I really like Russ's idea of the extension , but then again I dont know, wouldnt it be the same though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Here's another, less appearance altering idea... Slice off the heel on the current neck, plane the back of the neck and the top of the piece of heel you removed smooth. Then just glue the heel back on but about 2" forward. With such a dark wood, there's a very good chance that the seam will be almost entirely imperceptible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Sorry Russ... but I've got to agree that unless he makes it so that he's got one fatty heel al la real PRS style/length, whether he lams on a new heel or not it's not gunna give him much/enough surface to work with. I'm going to have to agree with Setch that he needs to save it for a single cut. Might I even suggest doing a MODERN single cut with it? (thick scott french's olive green headless guitar's body style) Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Add about 1.5" in length and .75" in depth under the pickup and he'll be good. Why do I think this, chris? Because I've done it. Slice it up like I recomend and it'll work. I'm very confident about that statement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 I would have no issue with doing what Russ suggested. I would say the the splice would look respectable if it is done cleanly. Looks like you have about an inch into the body now an extra inch under the neck PU would give a fair amount of surface area for your glue joint. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 look at the photos of the heel on this guitar http://www.universaljems.com/cart/ht10/ht10.htm It looks the same as yours basically, but with the bottom bit cut off and moved along to give it a longer tennon type thing to hold it in the neck pocket. maybe stick some veneer inbetween the 2 pieces to make it look intentional I have the guitar in the pics, and I can assure you that the neck joint is perfectly strong BTW- after scrolling up I just realised that Russ already described the exact same thing... I guess the only useful thing in this post is the pics then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToneMonkey Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 You could (maybe) drill into the neck and put some thick dowls sticking out the neck. Then you could drill into the body and glue the dowls in to hold it all tight. HOWEVER, I think that with something as critical as the neck joint (in terms of strength and accuracy) this would be nigh on impossible. I'd put it to the side and start again. You'll end up using the wood for something one day so it wont be wasted. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyen Posted September 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Here's another, less appearance altering idea... Slice off the heel on the current neck, plane the back of the neck and the top of the piece of heel you removed smooth. Then just glue the heel back on but about 2" forward. With such a dark wood, there's a very good chance that the seam will be almost entirely imperceptible. i think you are very right,i have glued rosewood before and it s hard to find the seam,maybe it wont show at all depending of course in how good i do it ,are you very certain it wont collapse though?, i really dont wanna build another neck for it , as you can tell,this really sound like a good idea to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chunkielad Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 I see no reason why an extension won't work if done to a good standard. As long as the glue joins are clean and tight, it should hold well. A bit of extra planning would be better next time though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Well, I can't tell you I'm certain it won't collapse. That's dependent on many factors such as wood stability(of both body and neck), contstruction quality, glue joint quality, etc. You can make a better judgement of your work than I can. However, I'm confident if it's all up to stuff(which it appears to be), that it'll be fine. I had about the same amount of wood to work with on the tank top that I build a few months back...and that was black limba, not rosewood. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Forgive me if I seem a little obtuse regarding this type of joint on the neck, but could you set everything back the same distance, so if youhave to route say 3/4" extra for the joint just set the bridge, pickups etc back the same distance. I'm sure theres a good reason why it can't be done as it hasn't been mentioned yet, but I would like to know anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Desopolis Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Forgive me if I seem a little obtuse regarding this type of joint on the neck, but could you set everything back the same distance, so if youhave to route say 3/4" extra for the joint just set the bridge, pickups etc back the same distance. I'm sure theres a good reason why it can't be done as it hasn't been mentioned yet, but I would like to know anyway that would work but it looks like he carved everything allready... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted September 7, 2006 Report Share Posted September 7, 2006 Also, the neck pocket matches the taper of the neck. If you move the neck further into the body the pocket will be too wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyen Posted September 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 that s it I am officially letting this go to another project and building another neck, I might as well ,I have some flatsawn heavy figured maple i intend to use, do you think if I keep it on the beefy side ,i wouldnt need the reinforcement carbon rods?,well that is the plan for now,another option is,splice it in half and just laminate it ,i dont know yet. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture018.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted September 8, 2006 Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 Why don't you want to use cf rods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyen Posted September 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 triple post? they are expensive for one,but then again that s probably not a valid excuse since i should spend money if i want it good ,but also I havent done it before and I ve heard some people say it s more likely to get dead spots in you neck or something like that ,I wouldnt know how true that is ,but i just dont feel very tempted to use them unless i m assured that i need to,if it makes any sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted September 8, 2006 Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 I think you've got your facts backwards. Most people say they notice less dead spots with cf rods. Personally, I haven't noticed dead spots one way or the other. You can get cf rods and tubes for next to nothing at hobby-lobby.com . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted September 8, 2006 Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 hello everybody,I am currently working on a prs style ,i didnt have enough material for the neck stock to portrude a bit longer so I ended up with a vvery small gluing surface,you can see in the pictures what i am talking about ,my question is ; is this gonna work or to unsafe and likely to collapse at one point? thanks for your time its greatly appreciated. http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture007.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture006.jpg http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d47/olyen/Picture005.jpg I'm not one to nomally say it wont work, but I think you might want to add some material to the neck for the tenon as others have said. Check out my site with the add on for a bolt on to a set neck this may help with a way to make you neck work. http://www.mikrovisions.com/pgmember/firstbuild.html I hope the first few pics help? MK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToneMonkey Posted September 8, 2006 Report Share Posted September 8, 2006 that s it I am officially letting this go to another project and building another neck, I might as well ,I have some flatsawn heavy figured maple i intend to use If it's really nice wood, it maybe better leaving that for a future project and using something a bit cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.