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Posted

I have reached the end of my days in dealing with the wraparound bridge. It will never live up to the standards that I have come to expect from the Gibson tunomatic bridge

I want to convert 3 of my guitars from wraparound to tunomatic bridges

I measured the difference at the wraparound posts and it appears to be .5 inches larger that the standard tunomatic post length and exactly the same length as the stoptail posts

Are there any aftermarket tunomatic bridges that are the same width at the studs as the stoptail studs?

I know Ill have to drill and mount a 2nd set of holes for the new stoptail

Are there any tutotials on this?

What are my options? Im trying to avoid doing a retop and hoping for some color touchup instead

Thanks ! :D:DB):D

Posted

You're going to destroy THREE PRS guitars?!?!!

Chris

3 PRS SE guitars.

The Korean models, and no I plan to be able to play the guitars after the mods are done so destroying them isn't an option

Any luthiers here on the board?

there are only a few :D

tonepro offer a direct replacement bridge that gives you the benefits of adjustable intonation, whilst matching the stud spacing of your guitar. They are reasonably pricey, but cheaper than paying a luthier to convert to tunomatic etc.

However, the PRS SE's can easily be converted to tunomatic specs, depending on how well you want the old stud holes filled and repaired.

Posted

You're going to destroy THREE PRS guitars?!?!!

Chris

3 PRS SE guitars.

The Korean models, and no I plan to be able to play the guitars after the mods are done so destroying them isn't an option

Any luthiers here on the board?

there are only a few :D

tonepro offer a direct replacement bridge that gives you the benefits of adjustable intonation, whilst matching the stud spacing of your guitar. They are reasonably pricey, but cheaper than paying a luthier to convert to tunomatic etc.

However, the PRS SE's can easily be converted to tunomatic specs, depending on how well you want the old stud holes filled and repaired.

Hi rhoads56,

Thanks for the info

Can you tell me anything about filling in the old stud holes?

How do I extract the metal bushing screw mounts that are in the holes?

What kind of material(s) is best to use as a filler?

Thanks again!

Posted

Most of us are luthier's. And if that was an attempted jab at me for my response.... whatever.

As for doing it to SEs you shoulda said so earlier. I have no issue with that.

I'd recommend filling with a dowel of matching size, glued in. Then re-drill for the side that you want (you WILL however see the dowel a bit though). If the studs touch the edge but don't fit really tight, then just fill the hole with titebond, push in the stud. Let it dry (titebond doesn't stick to metal!). Then pull out the stud and you have a perfect glove fit for the stud. However that only works if there's a TINY diff. in studd size...

Chris

PS: to find out how to get the bushings out, click on my name and search through my threads I started for the one where I did a tutorial on a bushing puller made at ace-hardware.

Posted

Most of us are luthier's. And if that was an attempted jab at me for my response.... whatever.

As for doing it to SEs you shoulda said so earlier. I have no issue with that.

I'd recommend filling with a dowel of matching size, glued in. Then re-drill for the side that you want (you WILL however see the dowel a bit though). If the studs touch the edge but don't fit really tight, then just fill the hole with titebond, push in the stud. Let it dry (titebond doesn't stick to metal!). Then pull out the stud and you have a perfect glove fit for the stud. However that only works if there's a TINY diff. in studd size...

Chris

PS: to find out how to get the bushings out, click on my name and search through my threads I started for the one where I did a tutorial on a bushing puller made at ace-hardware.

Hi Chris

Thanks for that info. Based on my measurements and a rough diagram there will be .25 inches of the dowel remaining on either right side of the post holes. I can definately live with that or just use a dab of model airplane paint to touch that area up so it isnt so obvious. My plan is a well playing gutiar with just a very minor color touchup on the stud ends. No need for anything extravagent.

As for the comment of the luthiers being a jab at you I ride straight and speak the truth. Innuendo is something I have no use for. It was just a simple question in response to a simple anwer

I'll hunt for that the bushing puller thread

Thanks again

John :D:DB)

Posted

I'm with perry on this one. Buy a good wraparound, some locking studs, and your set :D

Hi Godin SD,

Man I cant do it. The wraparound bridge and I are a love affair gone really bad

Thanks!

John

Most of us are luthier's. And if that was an attempted jab at me for my response.... whatever.

ummm.... ok....

i think the original poster meant "are there any pro's here?"

rhoads56,

your definately on the same page as I

John

Posted

If you can't find it give me a PM and I'll search around a bit. I know how it can be hard to find something you've never seen before... and I have the upper hand in having seen it and knowing relatively where it is :D

Chris

Posted

I think you'll get a cleaner look if you use wood plugs instead of dowels. You can either make them yourself if you have a drill press and a special plug kit, or you can just buy a pack of them from a woodworking supply store. I think it also might give you a little more strength, but it probably doesn't make a difference if you're using bushing-style bridges rather than the older ABR-1 style bridge.

Either way, I wouldn't even feel bad about doing it on a real PRS. Unless it's a Private Stock, there's too many of them out there to feel bad about customizing one the way you like it, as long as you don't butcher the job. I like TOM bridges and stopbars myself and that's one reason why I own a Les Paul.

Posted

I think the people advocating the intonatable wraparound are on the right track. It's an easier, reversible, and equally functional conversion. There are many great adjustable wraparound on the market - pigtail, Gotoh 510, mann made, tonepros, badass - all are really good quality. If you want to try it first, there are also some pretty decent inexpensive clones of the baddass which are widely avaialble. I'd strongly consider trying one of those before performing an irreversible modification.

Posted

I think the people advocating the intonatable wraparound are on the right track. It's an easier, reversible, and equally functional conversion. There are many great adjustable wraparound on the market - pigtail, Gotoh 510, mann made, tonepros, badass - all are really good quality. If you want to try it first, there are also some pretty decent inexpensive clones of the baddass which are widely avaialble. I'd strongly consider trying one of those before performing an irreversible modification.

Hi Setch,

Been there and done that as far as the intonatable wraparound. Pigtail, Badass and Tonepros (Tonepros and pigtail turned out to be the same thing basically)

No, I cant stand it any longer. The intonatable wraparound and I are a love affair gone really bad

Thanks!

John :D:DB)

Posted

Hipshot baby-grand bridge?

Its basically a TOM with the tailpiece attatched to the bridge

Posted

Good suggestion on the Baby Grand bridge or one of the Pigtail or Tone-Pro's.

Being import guitars, the studs for the wraparound may fit a tunomatic to. I've had two Korean Epiphone guitars that use the same body bushings for the bridge and the tailpiece.

To pull them out, I've done it many times:

use a claw hammer to pull it out.

First, just an exacto knife to score any finish that might be on the bushings (because if you don't, you may chip the finish when pulling out the bushings), find you something broad and flat, like a small scrap of plywood or or something to distribute the pressure from prying the hammer on top of your guitar. Screw the stud in about half way and use a claw hammer to pull out the whole part, just as you'd pull out a nail. Rock the hammer back gently and the bushing should pop right out.

Posted

I just don't see the difference between this tonepros PRS bridge and a TOM. This is a direct replaceable bridge and it acts the same as a TOM. What is exactly your problem?

tonepros_wraparound_set_w_msprs_b24743.jpg

they feel different when playing (fretting).

They feel different when you lean on them and palm mute

they look different

Posted

I have a TremontiSE PRS that I have modified and I absolutely love my pigtail wraparound bridge. I paired that up with some locking studs, locking tuners and Seymour Duncans and the guitar absolutely rips!

Posted

they feel different when playing (fretting).

??? how?

Posted

I just don't see the difference between this tonepros PRS bridge and a TOM. This is a direct replaceable bridge and it acts the same as a TOM. What is exactly your problem?

tonepros_wraparound_set_w_msprs_b24743.jpg

they feel different when playing (fretting).

They feel different when you lean on them and palm mute

they look different

Hi rhoads56,

You see things the way I do.

I notice a much different feel when playing a TON vs a wraparound. Also I notice a much different sound in the gutiars as the TOM allows a greater degree of string vibration becuase of its design. Ive always felt that some of the string vibration was sacraficed by the thickness of the wraparound givingit less treble and mid and more bass

Ive already got the mounting plugs out of the guitars. Time to mail order some wood dowels and the hardware!

John

Posted
I notice a much different feel when playing a TON vs a wraparound. Also I notice a much different sound in the gutiars as the TOM allows a greater degree of string vibration becuase of its design. Ive always felt that some of the string vibration was sacraficed by the thickness of the wraparound givingit less treble and mid and more bass

Ive already got the mounting plugs out of the guitars. Time to mail order some wood dowels and the hardware!

John

I TOTALLY agree that it feels, looks, and frets differently. But the treble, bass, and mid comment is pretty much just tone voodoo talking. :D

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