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delta 9" bandsaw


westhemann

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i'm thinking about getting one for ripping neck blanks to make laminate necks but i just lose so much wood (1/8) for every cut, and i'm thinking with the fence the bandsaw would be better for that...

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Sooner or later I'll have to post a picture of mine, it's basicaly wood to begin with except for the moving parts and deck. Make from a very old Heathkit with a 1/2 hp delco motor (yes it'll cut about anything) picked it up at a garage sale for $10, even has an extra outlet on the side for pluging in another tool.

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well i cut out my first cap and it worked very well.on the cutaways the secret is to cut everything else first and then trace your template onto the back too so that you can flip it over and cut what you can't reach by cutting from the top

it came with a fairly shallow blade.if i take my time i can cut a circle about 1 1/2" in diameter

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well i was able to take a piece of leftover crotch mahogany and turn it into four thick fingerboards with this bandsaw....it is turning into a good piece of equipment

didn't think mahogany was a good fingerboard wood?? how are you finding the blade wander? not to bad? i'm still thinking about getting one

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that's what i always thought, but a luthier around here said he only uses a table saw cause bandsaws wander to much.... i kinda thought... well not if you set it up correctly.... but he's been a carpenter for 20 years and doing guitars for 15 so i wasn't about to argue with the man... think you'd still get good results on a slab of ebony?

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ya tell me about it.... i usualy make them... 2/8"+ a 1/32" for planning... so i end up looking thru the wood piles from heavy 1" peices... you'd be supprised how thick something can be and still be priced as 1" thick :D

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of all the power tools in my shop I think the 2 I would never want to lose would be my router, and my bandsaw.

Table saw is fine for ripping stuff, and slotting fretboards with the right blade, but can't do alot else that a bandsaw can do. If your bandsaw has ball bearing guides and your blade tension is correct it will cut without much wander, I just resawed some quilted maple into fretboard blanks with a 5/16" blade cuz I was to lazy to change the blade and it didn't wander at all. Set up a fence, keep the tension correct and go hard. When I resaw say a top or something that is like 8" thick or better I switch to a 3/4" deep blade and it is basically self straightening in the cut slot.

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you're making a non- neck thru guitar? B) ? you ok wes? :D takes me about 20-30 mins to cut ou a body on my scroll saw, but the edges aren't 90 degrees so i can't go as close so i end up spending more time on my oscilating sander... but again... i really need one for resawing...

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