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i slipped a string in and i see what you mean about the phillips screw...it won't be until i string it up until i see if it is,in fact,a problem.if it is,i will replace those screws with some flat topped screws...but i wonder about these issues...i wonder because i know the 2300 can't possibly have these same issues...

but it may simply be meant to have a different string height...i think on my next ones i will just implement a neck angle.but i am quite sure this one will be fine...it's just cutting it closer than i would like....i am not wild about filing down the allen screws

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I think that the pro and the hybrid use the same parts. I just went to the Kahler USA site and the list the same part number for both bridges. While taking a close look the screw got a slamted bottom, you might be good getting a flat top.

http://www.kahlerparts.com/images/8399.jpg

This will solve that problem, but I think that the string angle from the cam to the roller will not be at an optimum angle, like setting a tom with the stop piece almost even with the saddles! Like I mentioned on your case maybe the screws will be a good fix, because your board is higher than mine, but on mine, I HAD to recess the bridge, ahhh, I forget to say that I didn't had a template, I just took the bridge out, placed tape, put the bridge on and scribed the bridge with a razor, and got this yesterday and free handed the rout, let me tell you, I think that if I can add a nice LED to this base, and use a fish tank pump, this will be my first inlay tool! It came out very good and I routed almost 1/4" at the time! gotta love those down cut bits, I must get some for my router!!!

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Looking good dude. I would have liked it to be all natural, but I know you hate wood with no stain :D

I have one question though. In this picture, it looks like the heel area on the body is bigger on one side (lower side in the picture) and sticks out past the neck. Whats up with that?

Edited by Godin SD
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it is supposed to do that...it gives more support to the neck.

How does it do that? I wouuld think that by simply makeing the Heal on the Body with more bulk that maybe that would have added the extra strength you wanted

!!METAL MATT!! :D

Edited by !!METAL MATT!!
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wes guitar

Take a look at the same thing from the front Matt.

Also notice that on this particular guitar the neck is nearly completely free from the body.

This neck would have suffered serious SG neck symptoms if wes hadnt left a bit of extra support - it still might but it seems like the right approach to me.

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Take a look at the same thing from the front Matt.

Also notice that on this particular guitar the neck is nearly completely free from the body.

This neck would have suffered serious SG neck symptoms if wes hadnt left a bit of extra support - it still might but it seems like the right approach to me.

Thats Cool!! Its not like im not loveing his axe Im just pointing out what I would have done, but just because its my way that dont make it the right way :D

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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extra bulk at the heel would not have increased the glueing surface.

anyway...it's all strung up and i played it a bit last night.it plays very well and sounds great,but i do have some tweaking to do.

bubinga has a tone i did not expect.it has much more bottom end than i thought it would.it's similar to mahogany,except much clearer,with more highs.

anyway...if i can ever get rid of this headache i will take some pics.

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after some tweaking,i am going to have to go out on a limb and say that the kahler trem would work better with a neck angle...the geometry of the cam/saddle/string relationship is such that it seems to be built for a higher string to body relationship than a floyd...of course recessing it like maiden did would work,or just raising the entire neck(but that would be ugly)

i have my action down to about 1.5 mm at the 12th...but that is really pushing it without a neck angle...to get it lower as i have it i will need to swap out the round headed phillips screws at the saddle with some flatter ones,and shorten the allen screws from underneath...which i will do after i work out all of the other li8ttle bugs.

by the way...gotoh locking tuners suck...they are designed very badly and take longer to string up than just regular old tuners...

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HOT DAMN WES!! That Kahler is soooo sexy, deadly axe :D

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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Awesome

I love it

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bubinga has an awesome tone...

yeah it was all preval,but there was alot of orange peel to level out...

look at the polish on the body compared to the pic of the rear with the cavity cover...notice the cavity cover is much glossier?i used nothing but dry micromesh on it...polishing compounds on the body...from here on out all i will be using is micromesh

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Sweet job! I love it, the whole thing came out awesome!

I had a question about the wiring, though. I've heard a lot of people say that not having a capacitor/tone knob plays with the sound a bit. What do you think, is that the case? Also, how would one go about wiring EMGs without a tone knob? It's a little late for my explorer project, but I NEVER use the knob, I just didn't want to have to dissect or change anything around as far as wires go, any more than I already had to.

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