Maiden69 Posted June 3, 2007 Report Share Posted June 3, 2007 Not hard to do at all, no template needed if you know what you are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglogirl Posted June 5, 2007 Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 Ok, how do I tighten uo the whammy bar on my Flyer? It just droops down. Does it need nylon washers and locks inside? It was sold to fit Kahler but it doesn't seem like it does. Uglogirl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wammi Posted June 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Ok, how do I tighten uo the whammy bar on my Flyer? It just droops down. Does it need nylon washers and locks inside? It was sold to fit Kahler but it doesn't seem like it does. Uglogirl you cant on a flyer. you need to upgrade the cam to a hybrid or pro. the flyer doesnt have an arm clutch. there is no real fix. lok tite works....for awhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted July 5, 2007 Report Share Posted July 5, 2007 Uglogirl...In hardware stores there is a product called "teflon tape" over in the plumbing section...it is a very thin but very tough tape in a white roll that is used to wrap pipe threads...it also works very,very well for ANY application such as you describe.I have used it on trem bars as well.you can wrap it as thin or as thick as you desire to tighten up the bar as much as you need,and unlike locktite it leaves no mess.if you keep the tape around the threads only,it is also invisible.most threaded bars are a bit sloppy,and teflon tape is the best fix. I like my bar to flop around so that it is out of the way when not in use...but i use 2 small wraps of that tape to stop it from rattling and clanking when I use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anti-Idiot Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 hello everyone. well, i'll try to make coherence, cos english is not my language (yo hablo español). i wanna know how strong are the fine tuners? cos im always going from standard to drop-d. i wanna know if i can go from one to another by just using the finetuners? if not, just wanna know the 'range' of tuning. im planin to buy a 7200 in chrome. i live in Peru and i've never seen a kahler in my life (but if it's good for Slayer, -and i think i saw Paul Stanley using 2 of 'em on the Rock the Nation dvd- then it's good for me btw: i use normals too (9-46) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted July 18, 2007 Report Share Posted July 18, 2007 Anti-Idiot, I wouldn't count on the fine-tuners giving you a full dropped note. But I don't have any experience, so I couldn't say for sure. I'm wondering-- does anyone have an opinion on the Kahler fixed Bridge? It seems like a pretty big chunk of metal to go on a guitar, just for the sake of fine-tuners. On the other hand, by the time you add the TOM and the fine-tune tailpiece together for a system like on BB King's Lucille guitar... it's not exactly "elegant" either. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 I have the kahler fixed bridge,but I have not yet installed it.It needs no routing,and the main thing is it is adjustable in every direction just as the 7300 is...I assume the tone will be just as kick ass as the 7300 as well,because it is a solid piece of machinery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 Does it require a neck angle? I assume that the saddles don't have to be angled quite as much as the trem, but you'll still want positive contact...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 Most people may say that you don't need a neck angle and that the Kahler is for a flat top guitar, but I will say the opposite. You need a slight angle, or have the fretboard of the guitar higher than normal to maintain correct tension on the saddles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 I agree...at first I thought you could do without the neck angle...and I did make mine work fine without it...but I have since learned it is not so great to do so...I think on my next one I will create an angle....I am not wild about recessing it.but more to the point,I think the fixed bridge has all of the same dimensions as the trem...I am not home to check that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TripleFan Posted August 10, 2007 Report Share Posted August 10, 2007 Is the width of the eightstring locknut on the wammi page correct? 2,375" (60,4mm) seems a bit much. A sevenstring locknut has about 48mm - 7mm spacing from string to string = 42mm string spacing total plus 3mm extra width on each side = 48mm. Add another 7mm for one more string and you should get about 55mm in total (actually Ibanez uses 56mm nut width on the RG2228). Has anyone tried the Kahler eightstring locknut? Is it really that wide or are the dimensions on wammi´s page wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimson guitars Posted August 22, 2007 Report Share Posted August 22, 2007 Just to chuck in my two cents worth, I build Robert Fripps (King Crimson etc) signature guitars and the only trem system he will use is the Kahler.. 2200 for preference but that's mainly just because that is what he saw first! He's a difficult man to please, as you would be if you'd been playing pro for 40 odd years, and he really knows his stuff! Here's a link to pics of his Slimline Signature Model.. oh, on the neck angle thing, I think it works both ways but have ended up recessing a few in flat top guitars, just to get the right sort of feel for the customer really.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jorge Fernandez Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Hi John, Can I ask for absolute values for your installation notes? (see http://www.wammiworld.com/Installation_guide.html) I'm planning a 25.5" scale length guitar. The bridge is a kahler 7330 fixed bridge. I've adjusted the saddles height to be 10:00 o'clock, then I have 16mm from body top to the roller channel. The maximmum height I can get is 18mm before the screw fall below the saddle. When you speak about 10:30 oclock what's the height from body top to roller? Another mesure I'm interested is from the 10A point. "10A) Slightly loosen the phillips on top of the middle of each saddle. Now pull out each saddle fork in and out noting the minimum and maximum extension of the fork. Once you have determined that, slide all the forks 2/3rds of the way equally and secure them by lightly retightening the Phillips screws (right)" Can you give some value? To the end of the metal piece with the phillip screw to the center of the roller I've 14mm. I'm going to install the bridge myself an I would like to know the maximum info that I can get!. What about the neck angle? What's your experience? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uglogirl Posted November 19, 2007 Report Share Posted November 19, 2007 Uglogirl...In hardware stores there is a product called "teflon tape" over in the plumbing section...it is a very thin but very tough tape in a white roll that is used to wrap pipe threads...it also works very,very well for ANY application such as you describe.I have used it on trem bars as well.you can wrap it as thin or as thick as you desire to tighten up the bar as much as you need,and unlike locktite it leaves no mess.if you keep the tape around the threads only,it is also invisible.most threaded bars are a bit sloppy,and teflon tape is the best fix. I like my bar to flop around so that it is out of the way when not in use...but i use 2 small wraps of that tape to stop it from rattling and clanking when I use it. Wes, thanks for the tip! What I did was get two brass nuts and a nylon washer and a metal washer and put them on the threads (nylon, metal, nut, locknut) of the arm comimg through at the underside of the flyer, adjusted it and then locked it down with the second nut. I used that teflon tape on the top worn out threads (the arm just slides 2/3 the way into the threaded whammey bar) because the arm was flopping around so bad. Works a charm! Uglogirl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted November 19, 2007 Report Share Posted November 19, 2007 I did not see this added in any of the posts, and I am not sure when they were created, but there are now routing templates available. You can get them through www.kahlerparts.com, they are $3 a piece. Go under the replacement parts link, then hit the continue button to proceed to the model listings and there is a column with the routing templates. It does not give any listing of how thick they are or what material they are made of, but for $3 how can you go wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted November 19, 2007 Report Share Posted November 19, 2007 Yeah, made out of cardboard, ea tremolo come with one, and a drawing for the other systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFW Posted January 2, 2008 Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 Hey, I had the five string bass a while back, and I've had some issues. Mostly the string spacing is way to close for me to play comfortably, probably since it shares the 4 string chassis, just with an added saddle. Also the hook for the B string is too narrow for a .125 string, just wondering if widening it weakens the part. Maybe 5 string trems should come on either a 4 or 6 string chassis depending on the application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Winter Posted January 15, 2008 Report Share Posted January 15, 2008 Do they only fit on flat bodyed guitars or would they fit on contoured body guitars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anti-Idiot Posted January 16, 2008 Report Share Posted January 16, 2008 Do they only fit on flat bodyed guitars or would they fit on contoured body guitars? the 22XX and 72XX series will fit a contoured body guitar. the 2300 and 7300 series will fit a flat top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer X Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 Hey Wammi, got a question for you: Just picked up another Charvel Model 4, after many years, and I thought the Kahler should have a gasket underneath it, but it doesn't. IS there supposed to be one, and if so, do you sell them? I believe those had Kahler Pros, right? Sorry, but I haven't worked on a Kahler'd Charvel in over 15 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC Ross Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 (edited) Hey Racer X, sweet score! I have a 1986 Model 4 (original owner) that's never been apart, and there isn't a gasket. Edited January 21, 2008 by DC Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer X Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 Cool. Thanks. Couldn't remember if there was or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicoyabe Posted January 22, 2008 Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 Hello I have a custom (handmade) guitar with fixed bridge and I would like to have a tremolo on it I'm not quite sure which one I need so here is my specs: - tune-o-matic bridge - flat top - neck angle - stratocaster headstock - individual string spacing : 0,410 " - e to E string spacing: 2,02 " Basically it's almost a LP style guitar but with a flat top surface so I don't know if have to choose a 2200 / 7200 serie to use my t-o-m studs but my body is not ached or the 2300 /7300 series for flat top but I won't be able to use the studs. Help me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anti-Idiot Posted January 22, 2008 Report Share Posted January 22, 2008 Hello I have a custom (handmade) guitar with fixed bridge and I would like to have a tremolo on it I'm not quite sure which one I need so here is my specs: - tune-o-matic bridge - flat top - neck angle - stratocaster headstock - individual string spacing : 0,410 " - e to E string spacing: 2,02 " Basically it's almost a LP style guitar but with a flat top surface so I don't know if have to choose a 2200 / 7200 serie to use my t-o-m studs but my body is not ached or the 2300 /7300 series for flat top but I won't be able to use the studs. Help me i'd say the 2200/7200, since u already have the holes for the posts. but first check your neck angle, if you have a typical Les-Paul neck angle, then go with the X200. if your geetar is flat-top and have almost no neck angle (sorta Tele or Strato), then go with the X300.If you go with the X300, u'll have to cover those nasty holes where tune-o-matics used to be. Go with the X200. (is only my advice) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer X Posted February 6, 2008 Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 Hey Racer X, sweet score! I have a 1986 Model 4 (original owner) that's never been apart, and there isn't a gasket. Hey, I actually saw a Kahler Pro auction the other day, and it included a gasket. So, maybe some came with and some didn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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