Jon Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 Also, an important reminder is to pick the correct radius or have the fingerboard slotted to the correct depth for the radius you are choosing. This is extremely vital for wide instruments - I will be going with no radius on my 8-string because it will take a 28"-36" radius so I don't take the edges down too low. Purpleheart and Padauk really aren't that bad with density. Try radiusing a 3" wide ebony, bubinga or wenge fingerboard with sandpaper. It's a workout it takes so long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 (edited) Purpleheart and Padauk really aren't that bad with density. Try radiusing a 3" wide ebony, bubinga or wenge fingerboard with sandpaper. It's a workout it takes so long. Hopefully, those router bits ericbojerik found work out really well, if they do it will save a lot of work for a lot of people! EDIT: Looks like they worked out just fine, just checked that thread. After using that hunk of purpleheart I decided that I wasn't going to use any large amount of the heavier woods and your right it isn't even that bad compared to many, I gotta say that piece I had was pretty bad though, not sure why but it was extremely heavy and very tough to work, much more dense than most of the smaller pieces I have seen. I got some bad back problems, so it just isn't a good idea, from having extra work when shaping it to having the extra weight when playing. I haven't handled a lot of padauk, but the pieces I held were really strong and heavier than some woods. I was actually surprised the first time I grabbed a piece of bubinga. It was one of the few woods that I never bothered to look up for density and weight and so on. I see it used so often now that I guess I just expected it to be much lighter than it was. For some reason I just had the idea (I think subconsciously) it would be similar to mahogany or just slightly heavier and that was far from the case, sucks too because I would love to make a body out of that stuff, Although sepele looks lighter and less tough which could be used in its place and has a similar look sometimes. If I use the heavier woods it will just be laminates/tops/backs or fingerboards and so on, I just gotta avoid the extra weight, if I expect to play the guitar myself. Edited May 31, 2007 by jmrentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted May 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 I used a 6 amp handheld belt sander and rasp to do most of the body shaping any advice on the fingerboard slots? what were your ideas jmrentis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 Like I said there are people here that have done this probably a million times and have a great way, I just have seen different ways as I have expected this issue on my upcoming fingerboard as I got it from a friends slotted. I just was thinking of a couple tools I had seen, little saws and even small knives that would work, although in your case you need to deepen it more than a tiny bit. You'll have to rig it up, but it would work I believe for deepening your slots, especially since your board isn't bound. Here is a good description: Refret Saw Guide Again, ask around before doing anything, but I've heard people using japanese saws and such, just something with a thin kerf and drill a couple holes that hold the guide at the depth of your tang. Then since your board is already radiused, the guide will follow the radius and you will get perfect depth and uniform slots. Honestly, this is probably the way I will do it, but again I'm sure there are better ways, although this way is kinda my style, lol. I've even heard of people using stuff like dremels to deepen them, but I wouldn't have the balls to do that after how much has been done already. See what the others do before doing anything, as there is probably better ways, but I believe this would work for you, if you found no other choices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyManAndy Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 (edited) Great work man! I was impressed with the SG, but your latest builds are coming out even better . So you don't have a gent's saw or anything to cut down the frets? CMA Edited May 31, 2007 by CrazyManAndy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted May 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 i dont have any special saws to do it. i was thinking that i could use a dremel? i'll have to stop by home depot today to see if they have any saws that wont cost too much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 I think I have seen some of those type saws at Home Depot. I just glanced and found a couple that might work for you at Sears. Here is a link for one that is inexpensive and might work, it doesn't tell or show how thin it is, but I expect that it could work. Saw As I said, I have heard of using a dremel type tool and I bet that people here might have done it, but I personally wouldn't. As I read on a sight somewhere about deepening the frets, I'd rather do it slower with a knife or saw, than use something that is moving at tens of thousands rpms and possibly ruin all the work thats been done so far. You gotta avoid making the slots bigger than the fret tang also. Anyhow, I would seriously avoid the router and just try to find a saw, you should be able to find one that will work. Again, see what everyone else thinks before doing anything! Best of luck, J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted May 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 After work I'll have to stop at home depot and sears to check some saws out. thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalien21 Posted May 31, 2007 Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 woah, jason. that's really wild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted May 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2007 i went to home depot and found a saw identical to the sears one, it fits perfectly and worked like a charm!!! Thanks for the suggestion! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted June 1, 2007 Report Share Posted June 1, 2007 i went to home depot and found a saw identical to the sears one, it fits perfectly and worked like a charm!!! Thanks for the suggestion! I'm glad that it worked out for you, I figured it would. I'm also glad that you went with the saw over anything with power, like I said I just don't have it in me to do something like so far into the build. Get us some pics once you get that thing all fretted up. What type of frets are you using? I keep telling myself that I should stay away from the SS frets, but I usually don't listen to myself, plus I hate compromising. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 (edited) Awesome... I love the shape dude! It has sort of an off-balance Explorer feel, but without the pointiness. Very cool--to my eyes, one of the best original shapes I've seen (assuming it's original). Also, your cocobolo looks eerily familiar... almost exactly like the fingerboard I put on my guitar! It's creeping me out so much, I had to put in a link: http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q119/Ge...t=guitar007.jpg Edited June 2, 2007 by Geo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted June 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 (edited) Geo, did you get yours from LMI? One of my friends who is also on this board (shorterthanrich) also got a nearly identical cocobolo board from them too. thanks for the compliments too! the shape is influenced from a fernandes vertigo, but way less radical with the curves. today i got the fret work done and that saw worked like a charm. the frets are all in, filed flush with the board on the sides, and they have been filed on the sides to 45 degress, and rounded. i leveled them as well, but just quickly since they will get dinged up a bit as i work on the guitar more. once the guitar is almost done i will level, reshape, and buff them. i also got the neck shaped a bit more towards the body and headstock, and also shaped the heal. tomorrow i will probably do the side dots and more body shaping. rawk Edited June 2, 2007 by wwwdotcomdotnet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted June 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 body Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jalien21 Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 jealous, brother. i started working on mine again. got some work done on the top and neck (scarfjoint and stuff) also, longbaords are going strong. i bought trucks today and i have a couple boards ready to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted June 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 jealous, brother. i started working on mine again. got some work done on the top and neck (scarfjoint and stuff) also, longbaords are going strong. i bought trucks today and i have a couple boards ready to go im jealous, i wish i had the tools here to make one over the summer, although i really wouldnt use it too much. once we get back to school im building infinity of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted June 2, 2007 Report Share Posted June 2, 2007 Geo, did you get yours from LMI? One of my friends who is also on this board (shorterthanrich) also got a nearly identical cocobolo board from them too. thanks for the compliments too! the shape is influenced from a fernandes vertigo, but way less radical with the curves. Yep, it came from LMI. I really think they were cut from the same billet! Yours looks way better than your inspiration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted October 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2007 ive been neglecting to finish my two current builds for a while now due to amp building and school work, but starting a week from today its all guitar business for a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted October 10, 2007 Report Share Posted October 10, 2007 Great to hear, this build is coming along quite well. What finish have you decided for this guitar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted October 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2007 Great to hear, this build is coming along quite well. What finish have you decided for this guitar? im just going to clear coat it with as many coats as possible and polish it to a nice mirror finish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted November 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 (edited) I got 10 coats of Stew Mac water based lacquer sprayed today! I'm going to let it dry overnight then wetsand it. Does anyone have any recommendations for the grit sandpaper to use? I forget what I did on my previous build. If I have time tomorrow I will be able to do another 8 to 10 coats and let it cure for a few weeks then it should be done! The reason why I am doing 20 coats is because the wood is very porous and I did not do any sealer or grain filler and the lacquer spray needs to fill in the wood pours so the buffing compound won't get stuck in there. Edited November 6, 2007 by wwwdotcomdotnet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 (edited) My recomendation is to WAIT for the finish to fully cure before wet sanding, 1 day is not enough. And if you are building the coats, the more you do before level sanding the better Edited November 7, 2007 by Maiden69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brewu22 Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 The stewmac stuff stays soft for a long time. Give it a couple of weeks, or you will have to buff it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwwdotcomdotnet Posted November 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 i am wetsanding it and then spraying the final 10 coats after wetsanding it. or should i not bother wetsanding it yet and just spray the final 10 coats tomorrow and let it cure for a while and then wetsand and buff it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyManAndy Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 No real point in wet sanding now. Finish the coats, and let it cure for a good while, then do your wet sanding and buffing. I know that with nitrocellulose lacquer it's a good idea to wait at least a month before you start wet sanding, but that may be different with water based lacquer. Can't wait to see how it turns out! CMA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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