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Dremel As A Router


slappy

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I happen to own a plunge base and tried that long ago. If the wood is a softer species and you have all the time in the world at your disposal to rout only 2 mm. per pass, I'd say it is possible BUT it simply won't go that deep. I haven't seen any bits for Dremel with long shanks and even if there are any, they wouldn't stay centered or simply break off. Keep it for delicate work where the thing excels at and buy / lend a plunge router, make some templates and rout away.

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+1 on the router. They are made for this type of work.

I also agree that you can use a Dremel if you want to take forever, possibly break a few bits (and/or the tool), and have less than perfect results. If you really want to use a Dremel router (they actually are routers albeit small and underpowered for serious woodworking) then you will have to deal with their inadequacies when applied to larger scale work for which they were not designed. Dremels are perfect for smaller tasks in thinner materials like inlay and binding (but not the best binding results but it can be done).

If you are trying to get out of buying a router then why not go cheap and get some Forstner bits, a hammer, and a chisel? Use the Forstner bits to remove most of the wood and then use the hammer and chisel to clean up the cavity. I used this method for everything (even neck pockets) when I was first experimenting with guitars (20 yrs ago). Actually I used a hand driven auger bit with removable cutters of different diameters. It was like a hand powered Forstner bit with a screw drive (if you have seen them you know what I mean). It works fine as long as you hone your chiseling skills and have a lot of time. I was still in school so I had all summer long.

I like routers these days. :D

~David

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I got some decent work done with one of those Mastercraft 3-in-1 thingies... powerful enough as a router to remove good amounts of wood... small enough to use as a Dremel (plus, had the stylus attachment)...

Until one day it just wouldn't turn on. Out of the blue. Then I got a "real" (not compared to the good tools some of our members have) router. <chuckle>

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While I HAVE used a dremel for pickup routing MODS, like opening up a single coil route for a hum, I wouldn't recommend doing a full route with one. Like someone said, you have to take MANY shallow passes. I have never broken a bit, but I could certainly understand how that's possible. I learned a while back that the bit that I was using had a 5/16" o.d., and that I could stack a bunch of washers over the shaft, that happened to not only be 5/16" o.d., but the holes were exact to the shaft size. That way, I made several templates, that the washers could act as glides, and cut pretty much a perfect route of the templates. I've modded the above pickup holes, as well a routed a full recessed Floyd routing with that setup, however, a full-fledged router would've been more appropriate, as it takes WAY too much time and patience, of both I seem to have little of.

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If you would first remove about 80% of the wood with a drill press and forstner bit, I think a Dremel could handle the rest if you take small passes and use a bit like the StewMac 4032 Dremel router bit. But that's an expensive bit ($16.00). I bought the HF orange trimmer router for $12.00 (but the run-out is horrible. Not really a problem if a bearing guided bit is used).

Here's my take on routers : If the router is working like a Cadillac cruising down the boulevard, it's being used correctly. If the router is operating like a moped trying to drive up the side of Pikes Peak, it's not being used correctly.

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My router cost £20 reduced from £40 in a sale at the local DIY store, it's more than good enough for guitar work. If you really can't afford to spend $40 on a router, one of the most necessary tools in making a guitar, you'll definately run out of money later on in the job.

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  • 1 year later...

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but yes, you can do it with a dremel and a plunge base.

That is exactly how I routed my truss rod slot, on the first guitar I built. Mind you, to do it right, and not burn your tool out, it took me I think a dozen passes.

As it has been said before, use the right tool for the right job. I simply didn't have access to a real router at that time, and I had spent my money on a band saw...and I was impatient... :D

It will work, but for the money you will spend on the plunge base, and bit, you might as well spend an extra 20 bucks and get a real router.

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