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7-string Randy Rhoads V


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Well I am about to start my second build this monday in woodwork at school

this is my first post here I would like to put some pics of my 6-string bass i built when I can possibly enter guitar of the month....BUT for the time being here are the Specs on the V

-Randy rhoads style V with reverse headstock

-7 strings

-25 inch scale length

-Chrome Hardware

-Mahongany body w/maple top

-5 piece neck of maple and black walnut

-Bolt on neck

-Rosewood fretboard

-One EMG-707 PU with just a Vol, and Tone knobs

-The color is yet to be decided but will be either Black or white

As i said before this is my second build and im only 16 :D i will hopefully have some pics up of everything witihin the next week :D

Edited by Bass-Man43
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the higher strings are fine at 25.5", but i run 10-60's for my 7 stringers, its the ghs zakk wylde set, and i add a 58 for the low E, but the 60 just isn't fat enough imo, for a low B at 25.5

i also have a 25" scale 6er that i tuned to B a few times with the same 10-60 set, but its way way too floppy.

Edited by ElysianGuitars
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why are you going with 25" scale length? imo, itd be kind of loose, unless you ran some really thick strings... i've got a 25.5" scale 7 string V, and i wish it was 27...

I actually run all my 7's 9 through 70 using a set of GHS Zakk Wylde 11's and an extra 9 on even 24 3/4" scales and they sound really tight.. As long as you can get the string thickness they sound nice.

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So heres an update today i got the template done and the mahogany part of the body. Wednesday i hope to have the maple top planed and glued together.

For the input I am going to route a channel from the top horn down to where the control cavity will be then ill route the control cavity then glue the maple top on. NO pics as of yet i jsut haev to get a hold of my parents camera will hopefully have them up tomorrow.

And btw i got my hands on a nice piece of rosewood :D

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  • 1 month later...

I know its been a while and no one really comments on this but i have some pics and work is delayed on this until i get my Pickup and truss rod, while i wait for those i work on the 8 string but heres some pics

Fretboard

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/m...ix/PICT2515.jpg

Neck and fretboard

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/m...ix/PICT2514.jpg

Headstock

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/m...ix/PICT2513.jpg

Neck

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/m...ix/PICT2512.jpg

Body

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/m...ix/PICT2510.jpg

sorry about the not so great pics im no photograhper :D

hope to get some feedback on this

Bass-man43

Edited by Bass-Man43
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Yeah now looking back on the headstock piece your right, i was just having one of those days where i couldnt do anything right :D i tried to make a template to route the bevels but i messed up hard and got frustrated so i did th eheadstock add ons and i guess i wasnt paying attention haha.... but as for the body grain it really showed up when i took a picture its not as noticable in person. It doesnt really matter that much anyhow seems how its gonna have the sweetest paint job ever :DB) but thanks for the feedback, much appreciated

Tev

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well its been a while since i posted but ive got some work done, and a slight mis-hap B) while i was using a template bit to route the neck flush with the fretboard the bearing slipped and i went into the neck and side of fret board :D But i got the control cavity done and the headstock very close to final shape.

My control cavity is a bit sloppy due to me not being so used to a router haha and not using a template :D

the Damage

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/m...ix/DSC00044.jpg

Headstock

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/m...ix/DSC00074.jpg

Control Cavity

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff103/m...ix/PICT2516.jpg

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This is why I add a second bearing to my template cutters, and use thin templates (like the 1/8" masonite stuff) to create a thicker 10mm MDF template so two bearing can run against it. Sucks that it happened man. So where did it happen exactly? Anything you can solve with adding binding to sort the board, and glueing in a shaving of maple from elsewhere?

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What kind of bridge are you using? A hardtail string-through Strat-type, a Tuneomatic with stop bar, or a tuneomatic string-through?

If you're running a 25.5" scale, I'd recommend the tuneomatic string-through, as it seems to "tighten up" the strings quite a bit for a less floppy feel. The string-through Strat-type is the next best, although it's not quite ideal in my opinion. The stop-bar leads to a very loose feel, not great for a low B.

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Without opening a huge can of worms, the tension from using a stop-bar or string-through is perceived instead of being real. Extra tension would increase the string tuning. String stretch beyond the saddles or nut may increase perceived string slinkiness, perhaps.

I know the "tension" is the same, as that determines pitch along with string gauge. However, a string-through setup "feels" much tighter than a top-loader, and helps calm low-string floppiness in my experience.

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Without opening a huge can of worms, the tension from using a stop-bar or string-through is perceived instead of being real. Extra tension would increase the string tuning. String stretch beyond the saddles or nut may increase perceived string slinkiness, perhaps.

I know the "tension" is the same, as that determines pitch along with string gauge. However, a string-through setup "feels" much tighter than a top-loader, and helps calm low-string floppiness in my experience.

I love worms! :D

My experience is the opposite, actually. I feel that a TOM/tail setup is much firmer under my fingers than a stringthrough, which is why I'm using a stoptail on my new project. I equate it with less "dead string" behind the bridge. Diff'rent strokes, I suppose.

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