Kenny Posted September 24, 2007 Report Share Posted September 24, 2007 well, im about to laminate a thru neck and i dont have any titebond present, but i do have a lot of gorilla glue. has anyone experanced any problems with gorilla glue, tonally, or strength wise? minus the glues expansion, that can be dealed with? what is your guy's opinions? what do you think of using it and expecting to get no glue joints?? Kenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted September 24, 2007 Report Share Posted September 24, 2007 well, im about to laminate a thru neck and i dont have any titebond present, but i do have a lot of gorilla glue. has anyone experanced any problems with gorilla glue, tonally, or strength wise? minus the glues expansion, that can be dealed with? what is your guy's opinions? what do you think of using it and expecting to get no glue joints?? KennyUsed the titebond and save staining your fingers. Also no need to use GG if maple will show more glue line with the GG. MK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted September 24, 2007 Report Share Posted September 24, 2007 Polyurathane glues are made for gluing dissimilar objects well (metal ~> plastic, wood ~> plastic) and are not formulated for wood to wood. The bond will be inferior which has been proven many times, it is also a poor choice for fine joints due to the amount it foams as it sets. Will it hold the wood together? Sure. But I wouldn't use it. If you're having a hard time locating Titebond, there are other glues that can be used. PVA glues, hot hide and liquid hide glues, epoxies. All are proven to be much stronger than poly glues when gluing wood to wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny Posted September 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2007 cool, thanks for the responses, i have access to titebond tomorrow, which is what ill do but im on a strict deadline and wanted to get it glued up tonight, but had never had any experiacne with gorilla glue on wood-wood. i used it on a lot of ceramic projects. anyways thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted September 24, 2007 Report Share Posted September 24, 2007 (edited) There are actually a few glue threads, where they are all discussed quite heavily and intensely and with the same outcome as stated above, Titebond over GG. Do you know of the Rockler in Clairemont Mesa(Clairemont Mesa Blvd.). I go there often to just look around for new toys and they actually offer a lot of stuff that is helpful in guitar building. Anyhow, just an FYI for you, the guys there know a lot about woodworking in general as well and can be of some help, none that I have met has built a guitar though. I also know of some decent wood places, including a new one that has some good prices and selection. Edited September 24, 2007 by jmrentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny Posted September 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2007 There are actually a few glue threads, where they are all discussed quite heavily and intensely and with the same outcome as stated above, Titebond over GG. Do you know of the Rockler in Clairemont Mesa(Clairemont Mesa Blvd.). I go there often to just look around for new toys and they actually offer a lot of stuff that is helpful in guitar building. Anyhow, just an FYI for you, the guys there know a lot about woodworking in general as well and can be of some help, none that I have met has built a guitar though. I also know of some decent wood places, including a new one that has some good prices and selection. jmerentis yea i know of that rockler, right next to the cheetahs i go there to get my venerers for inlays and whatnot. i live down in coronado so its a 15 min drive up, but im glueing my neck up today, but with titebond. i was just getting impatient and was curious of gg was a formitable substitute... as far as lumber yards go which is the best in sandiego in your opinion?? i personally love TH&H i get free wood sometimes cause one of the guys builds basses....frost is way to expensive for my taste... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyonsdream Posted September 24, 2007 Report Share Posted September 24, 2007 Hmmmm, good old fashioned Elmer’s wood worker’s glue as ALWAYS worked for me. I experience very little (if any) creep. I know a lot of people use titebond but I’ve never even fathomed using GG. I tried to fix a broken chair with that stuff. It worked but the “puff up" was ridiculous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 (edited) Yeah, I was going to mention th&h, good place way better prices than frost as you said. The other two I'll check when looking for a piece are cut and dried hardwoods and tropical exotic hardwoods, both of which are a bit north, not a bad drive though. Cut and dried is small, but they do come across some nice pieces and they are really cool people. Worth a call if you can't find something. Tropical exotics is a cool place as well, they get a lot of exotics in a have a decent selection. They often have sales with good prices. One I remember was 10 cocobolo fretboards for $40 or something. They have a lot of cocobolo and bocote, but plenty of other very random exotics. If you want something different, this is the place to go, some woods are pricey and some are cheap compared to other places, just depends on the species, always check the sales. As for the best, I can't really say, I've had luck with all and while some are better priced, I'll check em all to find that specific look I want. I know there are a few more than the 4 including one further south, maybe even south of you, but I haven't checked it yet. They all seem to have their own bonuses. On the glue, I wasn't sure if you couldn't find any or didn't want to wait, which is why I mentioned rockler, though the lowes and home depot near me have it also and are open till 10 I believe, but I don't know if you have either in Coronado. If you ever want epoxy, try the west systems which is at rockler and get the mini pump set with it. It may seem expensive, but it will last a good while and is so much nicer to use than many others and well worth the money. I got the 206 hardener, which is a little slower than the 205, but it's also a little thinner, which I liked, so it's a personal choice. Anyway, I like that place a lot, everytime I go I find new stuff I want. Anyhow, hope the neck glue up went well and best of luck. J Edited September 26, 2007 by jmrentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Elmers wood glue and titebond are both alphetic resin glues I believe...making themboth very similar.I use titebond because it has never failed me,and why change what works. Gorrilla glue is a horrible product for anything on guitars,in my opinion.every time I have used it I have been supremely dissapointed and aggravated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Sulzer Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Elmers wood glue and titebond are both alphetic resin glues I believe...making themboth very similar.I use titebond because it has never failed me,and why change what works. Gorrilla glue is a horrible product for anything on guitars,in my opinion.every time I have used it I have been supremely dissapointed and aggravated. Gorrilla glue is difficult to use for guitar work. Why do it when normal wood glue works so well? It is extremely strong, but it is very difficult to take apart a GG joint becuase it does not release with heat easily as most other glues do. You can make joints with no glue line if you are careful; the clamp pressure seems to keep the foaming down in the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 (edited) well, im about to laminate a thru neck and i dont have any titebond present, but i do have a lot of gorilla glue. has anyone experanced any problems with gorilla glue, tonally, or strength wise? minus the glues expansion, that can be dealed with? what is your guy's opinions? what do you think of using it and expecting to get no glue joints?? Kenny In my experience, titebond or any other similar yellow wood glue is best for most applications. Gorilla glue is stronger only when glueing end grain. I tried it on a scarf joint and it held up pretty well when I tired to break it but if my memory serves me right, regular yellow glue is just as good if not better and easier to work with. Edit - Just found an old post of mine. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...mp;#entry307644 In there I talk about some tests I did and Yellow glue came out ahead. Edited September 26, 2007 by guitar2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Elmers wood glue and titebond are both alphetic resin glues I believe...making themboth very similar.I use titebond because it has never failed me,and why change what works. Gorrilla glue is a horrible product for anything on guitars,in my opinion.every time I have used it I have been supremely dissapointed and aggravated. Gorrilla glue is difficult to use for guitar work. Why do it when normal wood glue works so well? It is extremely strong, but it is very difficult to take apart a GG joint becuase it does not release with heat easily as most other glues do. You can make joints with no glue line if you are careful; the clamp pressure seems to keep the foaming down in the joint. I think Mike and Wes pretty much nail it. Why use it if other glues work good and are less problematic. Jon, If you're having a hard time locating Titebond, there are other glues that can be used. PVA glues, hot hide and liquid hide glues, epoxies. All are proven to be much stronger than poly glues when gluing wood to wood. Be careful using Liquid Hide Glues (unless you are talking about fish glue). A few years back I found Franklins Liquid Hide glue never sets up hard, and is not a good glue for my builds. PVA's, Epoxy, and HHG can all create a stronger than the surrounding wood joint if used properly. Be sure to prepair the surface before glueing, as most all these glues do not work as well when the surface has extra resins, oils, dust and contaminates that build up in the pores over time. A freshly planed surface is best. Consider the density of the wood you use, higher density woods require higher pressure or a thinner glue to get a good bond. Also remember humidity and temp. make a huge difference (be sure your conditions are within the manufacturers recommendations). Make your joints well, clean and accurate fits, avoid forcing wood into place. Recently, I have been persuaded by another member to give my veneering glue(urea resin) a go on laminates. This glue is a good glue and will certainly be able to develop more than enough strength. It is not a joint that will be reversable, so I am only going to give it a go on permenant laminate joints. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 I'll have to read up on the liquid hide glues used for the tests that compare the strength no different from actual HHG. I know I have heard that liquid hide glue may not set up as hard, but I figured this was either an old glue issue or some gimicky brand (kind of like gorilla glue). Thanks for the tip, Rich. I'm also on the Titebond band-wagon, I just don't have any issues using any of the glues for my projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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