Stewey Posted October 30, 2007 Report Share Posted October 30, 2007 I also love your projects, I just don't like your camera. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted October 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2007 thanks guys. i will be getting my body template sometime this week. after that, i can probably get the neck fretted, guled in, all routs done, and stuff like that within a week. well, actually i think i can finish it in 2 more weeks at the most, but i wont be able to put it together for a long time due to no money for parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xDrugFreeJonnyx Posted October 30, 2007 Report Share Posted October 30, 2007 You doing a tremelo or tune-o-matic style bridge? pickups? finish? do fill us in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted October 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2007 You doing a tremelo or tune-o-matic style bridge? pickups? finish? do fill us in it is going to be boring all around. nothing unique here. basic hetfield guitar.( as i am a big fan) black hardware tom and stop tail piece emg 81 and hopefully 60 boiled linseed oil and satin clear finish. i tested the boiled linseed oil on the wood and it looks extrodinary. i love it, looks like a very rich deep red with a lot of swirling in the grain. its wierd the sawdust is bright pink. and since the wood is so heavy, the sawdust is too. i just falls straight down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackdog Posted October 31, 2007 Report Share Posted October 31, 2007 I would like to express my surprise when after the accident you had with the carving of your neck you were able to produce a new carved neck in a matter of hours !!! That was fast !!! Anyway, very nice headstock design. Is it based on an existing one or is it all yours. I would love to do something 3-D on my headstocks, but my current design is on the small side and I couldn't come up with anything interesting that would not make it look smaller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2007 well as usual i screw things up. i dont know whats up with me latley. i did the exact same thing again. sanded thru to the back of the truss rod channel. ive never had this much trouble with any neck. all of my first ones were better than this. i dont know why i keep messing up. now i have to take off the fretboard again. this time i dont know if it will even be usable. if not, i wont be building another for months. this sucks. it seems as though the more expierenced i get, the worse i get at building. i over think things too much. i did better when i just did something without planning it. i never had a problem doing things like that. http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0095-1.jpg sand thru: http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k...ie/DCAM0098.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 finally got a new neck blank. here it is. straight ribbon grained african mahogany. already scarfed up and ready to go. i also get my body template today too. will get back to you guys later after i get some work done on it. http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0038-1.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0039-1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted November 13, 2007 Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 That happened because you set up the rod to far out. On all my guitars, factory or else that rod tip is almost parallel to the nut. And it looks like you were doing the volute a little far into the neck... Cant really tell from the pic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 That happened because you set up the rod to far out. On all my guitars, factory or else that rod tip is almost parallel to the nut. And it looks like you were doing the volute a little far into the neck... Cant really tell from the pic... i agree, the volute was way far down and not what i wanted. and yes, the rod was pretty far up this time. i just got the tr channel routed on this one, and the tr is only about 1/2" higher than the nut. i can tell the difference right away. thanks maiden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 here is some progress. figured bubinga fretboard with mahogany binding. it is my first binding job, and i am pleased with it. neck blank is routed for truss rod, and is ready for tapering and final shaping after i glue the fretboard on tonight, and should have it all carved later tomorrow after shoool. http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0043-2.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0042-2.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0041-1.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0040-1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix_rising Posted November 13, 2007 Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 (edited) Looks good man! Need to keep us updated! Edited November 13, 2007 by phoenix_rising Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 gluing up the fretboard and the neck right now. i will get to the carving when i get home tomorrow. should be able to fret it tomorrow too. should be quick from here on out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 A few things: 1) You work too fast. It makes me jealous. Stop, please. 2) That binding looks huge on that neck! Is that the final taper for the fretboard? If so, I'd be very worried about the fret ends lifting up. 3) Why bubinga for a fretboard? Not a bad choice, I've just only seen it used in bodies really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 A few things: 1) You work too fast. It makes me jealous. Stop, please. 2) That binding looks huge on that neck! Is that the final taper for the fretboard? If so, I'd be very worried about the fret ends lifting up. 3) Why bubinga for a fretboard? Not a bad choice, I've just only seen it used in bodies really. i find it hard to work as slow as some people do. its just they way i do it. in the pic i had just leveled the binding, and hadnt finished the tapering. it is about 1/16" wide on both sides now. maybe a little less. i like a wide board at the nut. tons of people use bubinga for a fretboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 hahaha, I'm just razzin' ya. I get the weekends to go home and get some work done, you make a ton of progress all the time I was going to say I hoped you weren't done thinning the binding out. I bet it looks sharp! The contrast is really nice. You didn't want to slot through the binding? I guess it ruins the whole appeal of it anyways, huh. I like a wide board too. In fact on the V I'm putting together, the sides of the fretboard are a little over 1/16" wider than normal all the way down. I just hate rolling off the fretboard accidentally, and I like a little more wood under my fingers. It should work out quite nicely I must have been living under a rock or something, but I didn't know that people generally used bubinga for a fretboard. It's a nice looking piece too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 hahaha, I'm just razzin' ya. I get the weekends to go home and get some work done, you make a ton of progress all the time I was going to say I hoped you weren't done thinning the binding out. I bet it looks sharp! The contrast is really nice. You didn't want to slot through the binding? I guess it ruins the whole appeal of it anyways, huh. I like a wide board too. In fact on the V I'm putting together, the sides of the fretboard are a little over 1/16" wider than normal all the way down. I just hate rolling off the fretboard accidentally, and I like a little more wood under my fingers. It should work out quite nicely I must have been living under a rock or something, but I didn't know that people generally used bubinga for a fretboard. It's a nice looking piece too! well its not like as popular as ebony or rosewood or anything, but it is out there. it is a good fretboard wood becuase it is hard and holds well. it has amazing figure when wet, so when i lightly oil it, it will look great. it has big spots that make it look like leopard skin. i can work on weekends, tuesdays and thursdays and every other friday. and on mon, wed, every other fri, i can work from 3:00 to whenever. i usually spend a very long time working on them, wich is why i get so much done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 (edited) Looking very nice! Can't wait to see the new pics. You do definitely work quickly, which is great that you can, heck if I could work that quickly I would be so broke and so happy! I like the binding, it looks good I think. Binding definitely makes some things more of a pain in the arse, but is worth it. Cool stuff man, keep the pics coming, can't wait to see this one all finished up! As for Bubinga fretboards, I'm truly surprised that it is not used more often as fretboards. Its a nice strong wood that looks very nice and I don't think it has many negative traits in using it as a fretboard, though I could be wrong. I hope to see more of them in the future, after using the stuff I'm liking it more and more, however, I seem to be fairly allergic to it, which is a biatch. The only real problem it causes is when I get the fine dust on my hands/arms and it will create some small blisters. With some gloves and long sleeve shirt its no problem. Anyhow, I just got my fretboard glued as well, though I had a problem occur during the process it came out alright. Bubinga Fretboard. I'm bending the bubinga cap around the volute that will go on the back of the headstock right now, which is what going on in that picture. I really do like that wood, its a bit heavy for me to use any large amounts, but for caps and fretboards, I really like it. What will you be doing to the neck, finish wise? Are you oiling it? Will you do anything to the fretboard? Either way it will look really nice. Bubinga seems to shine pretty good without any finish, it takes a bit of sanding or a nice and sharp scraper. It only took me a few minutes to see a slight reflection in it, with just a scraper, but with some fine sandpaper you should be able to get a nice glassy surface. Well, nice stuff man, keep the pics coming, can't wait to see this one all finished up, its going to look wicked. J Edit: I just reread that you will oil it. Which type? I remember you switched recently I believe to a different type of oil, is that still working well for you? Edited November 14, 2007 by jmrentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 I put the nut end of the trussrod exactly underneath the string nut,not 1/2" out...I use the allen head ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 just a few more pics: http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0047-2.jpg http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0045-1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTU 7's. Posted November 14, 2007 Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 The neck it's looking very good. Are you going to put a truss rod cover there? Becuase I see that the truss rod has a little piece out of the headstock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 Looking very nice! Can't wait to see the new pics. You do definitely work quickly, which is great that you can, heck if I could work that quickly I would be so broke and so happy! I like the binding, it looks good I think. Binding definitely makes some things more of a pain in the arse, but is worth it. Cool stuff man, keep the pics coming, can't wait to see this one all finished up! As for Bubinga fretboards, I'm truly surprised that it is not used more often as fretboards. Its a nice strong wood that looks very nice and I don't think it has many negative traits in using it as a fretboard, though I could be wrong. I hope to see more of them in the future, after using the stuff I'm liking it more and more, however, I seem to be fairly allergic to it, which is a biatch. The only real problem it causes is when I get the fine dust on my hands/arms and it will create some small blisters. With some gloves and long sleeve shirt its no problem. Anyhow, I just got my fretboard glued as well, though I had a problem occur during the process it came out alright. Bubinga Fretboard. I'm bending the bubinga cap around the volute that will go on the back of the headstock right now, which is what going on in that picture. I really do like that wood, its a bit heavy for me to use any large amounts, but for caps and fretboards, I really like it. What will you be doing to the neck, finish wise? Are you oiling it? Will you do anything to the fretboard? Either way it will look really nice. Bubinga seems to shine pretty good without any finish, it takes a bit of sanding or a nice and sharp scraper. It only took me a few minutes to see a slight reflection in it, with just a scraper, but with some fine sandpaper you should be able to get a nice glassy surface. Well, nice stuff man, keep the pics coming, can't wait to see this one all finished up, its going to look wicked. J Edit: I just reread that you will oil it. Which type? I remember you switched recently I believe to a different type of oil, is that still working well for you? that fretboard looks great jason!! awesome inlay. yeah, i wish some production guitars had a bubinga board. the oil i will be using is boiled linseed oil. super smooth just like tung oil, and is usable very quickly. the neck will be the same. i wish i had the money for some abalone block inlays, but i am broke for now. it will have black abalone knobs though. 1 vol 1 tone, 3 way black chrome switch. any yes, i will be putting a trc cover on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2007 progress on neck carve: http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0048-1.jpg volute: headstock http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0050-1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 wooo! more progress! fretted and tuner holes drilled. the body will be glued up tomorrow, and i will have the body done the next day. well, most of it. i will not finish the neck carve all the way to the heal until i have it fit in the body. check it out. but note i will not be using these tuners, they are just the only ones i currently have, and use them as test fits. the real ones will be black either keystone style, or sperzels. fretted: tuner holes drilled: http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0057-2.jpg with some tuners: http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0056-2.jpg another tuner one: http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0053-1.jpg board again: http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0055-2.jpg back of neck with tuners http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0054-1.jpg full board: http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0052-2.jpg last of tuners: http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0053-2.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted November 15, 2007 Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 Very, very nice. Sperzels always look good to me, I just ordered some 3x3 satin chromes for mine. I have some 6 inline satins on my ibanez and think they look nice. They have so many different colors now it takes me a long time to choose, but I still came back to the satin chrome, it just looks cool to me. Although I've seen some that were called Polished Chrome that looked real keen, took me a long time to decide between the two. I also really liked the color Jon is selling in the public classified section here, its black and gold, I came very close to grabbing those for this one, but decided to wait for a future one where I decide to use gold hardware for the rest of the guitar. I've seen some nice satin black sperzels as well. Anyhow, the binding came out very nice and the frets came out great. I really like the bevel you put on the ends of the frets, I have decided that I will keep my bevel pretty steep, to avoid any chance of string slipping off the ends. I can't wait to see how that board looks all finished and in the sun, it will look so great. Should stand out even more with the binding on there. I think gold should actually work pretty well with bubinga, especiall if you have a oiled or finished maple neck. Something I may try in the future myself. Great stuff man, keep up the great work and keep those pics coming. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted November 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2007 Very, very nice. Sperzels always look good to me, I just ordered some 3x3 satin chromes for mine. I have some 6 inline satins on my ibanez and think they look nice. They have so many different colors now it takes me a long time to choose, but I still came back to the satin chrome, it just looks cool to me. Although I've seen some that were called Polished Chrome that looked real keen, took me a long time to decide between the two. I also really liked the color Jon is selling in the public classified section here, its black and gold, I came very close to grabbing those for this one, but decided to wait for a future one where I decide to use gold hardware for the rest of the guitar. I've seen some nice satin black sperzels as well. Anyhow, the binding came out very nice and the frets came out great. I really like the bevel you put on the ends of the frets, I have decided that I will keep my bevel pretty steep, to avoid any chance of string slipping off the ends. I can't wait to see how that board looks all finished and in the sun, it will look so great. Should stand out even more with the binding on there. I think gold should actually work pretty well with bubinga, especiall if you have a oiled or finished maple neck. Something I may try in the future myself. Great stuff man, keep up the great work and keep those pics coming. J thanks jason. the majority of the work will be done withing the next 2 days. glue up the body blank tomarrow, next day body should be done, glue in neck that day, next day clean up joint and anything that needs to be cleaned up. yup. yeah, with all of the differnent colors, it is hard to decide. i once spent like an hour just looking at all of them. great to have options. i had thought of using gold, i love the way gold tuners look, but i decided i just wand a dark looking guitar. more updates tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.