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My First Acoustic Build A Reso Squareneck


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Hi all,

Well I got bored with the solid bodies for right now. So I started an acoustic/reso squareneck build.

Will be black walnut back and sides, maple top, not sure what type of maple yet, a black walnut neck with maple lams., cocobola fretboard most likely bound with maple and abalone fret markers. Will be addind a fishman pickup mounted to a Beard cone and spider. Waverly open tuners.

Thats about it.

Here's a link to the start of this. I hope to get this done pretty quickly, buty I know that the holidays are coming and there are things to do. BAH HUMBUG!!!!!!!

Reso build semi blog

Mike

Edited by MiKro
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Lookin' great man. I'm plannin' on eventually building a round neck reso myself. I would build a square... but if I want slide, I'm gunna do a Wiesse (which I already plan to do too hahahaha).

I do have to question your choice of dead-flatsawn walnut sides... did you do the research on walnut to see whether it's one-a the one's that'll give you issues when flatsawn?

Chris

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Lookin' great man. I'm plannin' on eventually building a round neck reso myself. I would build a square... but if I want slide, I'm gunna do a Wiesse (which I already plan to do too hahahaha).

I do have to question your choice of dead-flatsawn walnut sides... did you do the research on walnut to see whether it's one-a the one's that'll give you issues when flatsawn?

Chris

Thanks Chris,

As far as the flatsawn, My friend George has been bending all types of wood for many years( he also bends acrylics and plastics. I asked that question, because I was worried about it delaminating itself. He assured me that we could do it, but there was a risk? He used a longer soak time with about 15% added ammonia to the water. Also suggested no more than 7/64" thickness, and preferably thinner. It seemed to work fine? Now I'm not going to tell you that it will everytime, but this experience for me came out quite nice. Maybe I just got lucky LOL:)) I do plan to build me a hotbox and will try more and see what happens. I think the Weisse is a great plan. My friend has one and is now building the forms to make his own. I'm looking forward to helping him and learning more.

Mike

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Oh, my beef with flatwood isn't delaminating... I've heard that but as far as I see it's not exactly something I would call common of a realistic fear. My main issues are these (and keep in mind I on most occasions have no issues with flatsawn, I did some flat limba not too long ago):

Flatsawn wood when bent is more likely to have ripples which means more sanding of the sides til they're flat... and especially annoying task when prepping pre-binding route as well as after. If it ripples bad enough... you may have to sand so much that the sides get thin enough to worry about. But as I lightly touched above, it all depends on the wood, some are worse than others.

Also, APPARENTLY some woods (from what I hear a majority) don't stand up as well to humidity changes over time. So flatsawn wood sides are more likely to crack in the future... but I obviously have no PERSONAL experience with this having only built guitars for a short time.

Chris

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Oh, my beef with flatwood isn't delaminating... I've heard that but as far as I see it's not exactly something I would call common of a realistic fear. My main issues are these (and keep in mind I on most occasions have no issues with flatsawn, I did some flat limba not too long ago):

Flatsawn wood when bent is more likely to have ripples which means more sanding of the sides til they're flat... and especially annoying task when prepping pre-binding route as well as after. If it ripples bad enough... you may have to sand so much that the sides get thin enough to worry about. But as I lightly touched above, it all depends on the wood, some are worse than others.

Also, APPARENTLY some woods (from what I hear a majority) don't stand up as well to humidity changes over time. So flatsawn wood sides are more likely to crack in the future... but I obviously have no PERSONAL experience with this having only built guitars for a short time.

Chris

Thanks Chris for the insight and concern. I understand the ripples,yes it has a slight amount. I think it came more from the webbing used than anything, Even though the stainless shim stock is like .009 it seems to bring through the webbing impression that he uses.??? Well we'll see! I have noticed that many builders of reso's are now putting vertical bracing on the sides as well. Usually on both sides of the waist and in the middle of the bouts. Also bottom bracing as well as a center brace on the top at least to the screen holes. Most I've seen like this are using flat sawn or highly figured sides. Have not gotten an explanation as to this being a help for this or not , but I have observed the practice and will do the same on mine. I looked at a Beard open soundwell model using a mirror through the screen hole. It looks like he's opening the sound well from 10 to 2 o'clock and also bracing similar to what I described?

Mike

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Very cool stuff Mike! I really like how the blog is done and how often you take pics in the process. I try to do the same thing taking pictures at every step regardless of importance or difference, I just like to see them and it shows how much work goes into a build. The wood looks beautiful and is going make an excellent looking guitar, can't wait to see it all together. As for your blog, when you said that you missed the bookmatch by 1/4", would this mean if you looked at the bottom where the sides meet one side would look further up. Hmm tough to explain what I mean, say there was a knot at the bottom of the bookmatched sides, when comparing them would the knot be 1/4" off (either up or down) on one of the sides. I'm not very familar with acoustic builds, though I've read and looked through a number. When you mentioned the bookmatch was off, what I said above is what came to mind and I also though that you would almost never notice that difference, especially with just a 1/4". Anyhow, great stuff and keep the progress pics coming, its very enjoyable and interesting to watch the process. Best of luck. J

Edited by jmrentis
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Nice work Mike! Very clean looking bender there.

One little thing you can do to make your molds more effective is to size it down (not so thick), then you can lock your rim in and keep everything nice and true as you work. I like to have about 1/2" of the rim exposed on both sides so I can attach my linings, then surface with dishes, and even attach my top without pulling it from the mold. Handy :D

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Very cool stuff Mike! I really like how the blog is done and how often you take pics in the process. I try to do the same thing taking pictures at every step regardless of importance or difference, I just like to see them and it shows how much work goes into a build. The wood looks beautiful and is going make an excellent looking guitar, can't wait to see it all together. As for your blog, when you said that you missed the bookmatch by 1/4", would this mean if you looked at the bottom where the sides meet one side would look further up. Hmm tough to explain what I mean, say there was a knot at the bottom of the bookmatched sides, when comparing them would the knot be 1/4" off (either up or down) on one of the sides. I'm not very familar with acoustic builds, though I've read and looked through a number. When you mentioned the bookmatch was off, what I said above is what came to mind and I also though that you would almost never notice that difference, especially with just a 1/4". Anyhow, great stuff and keep the progress pics coming, its very enjoyable and interesting to watch the process. Best of luck. J
Thanks,

As far as the bookmatch, I mean that i was off from neck block to tail block. If that makes any sense? :D

Thanks again,

MK

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Nice work Mike! Very clean looking bender there.

One little thing you can do to make your molds more effective is to size it down (not so thick), then you can lock your rim in and keep everything nice and true as you work. I like to have about 1/2" of the rim exposed on both sides so I can attach my linings, then surface with dishes, and even attach my top without pulling it from the mold. Handy :D

Thanks Rich,

The bender is a friends as well as the form so I can't be to picky about his choice of size. I will be making my own bender and forms soon. So I will definitely take your suggestions into consideration. Again many thanks.

MIke

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  • 2 months later...
any updates on the build mike?

I finally finished mine. Now I'm already thinking about my next build.

Hi Weston,

Not much to report , been very busy with some personal stuff. I did manage to get the neck glued up and rough cut though, I ended up using a 7 lam instead of 5 though. I think it will look nice. I also made a new jig. No pics of that yet,I am still working on some of the details. :D

I saw your build and it looks like it came out great!. I hope it plays as well as you expected? Call me sometime or come by for a brew. :D

Thanks,

Mike

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I have also been checking on the build from time to time. The neck looks pretty awesome.

Thx Jon,

I hope I can get back to work on it and the others soon. So much to do outside of these and no time to do it :D))

Oh well !! Priorities, Priorities, I hate getting old and having to be responsible. LOL :D

MK

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You make very nice Jigs :D

The project is looking great! How cool is that Ambrosia maple :D

Peace,Rich

Thanks Rich,

I like the Ambrosia maple very well. I think it will look cool on this build. The jig is cool as well and thanks for the compliment. I'm still finding ways to use it and make more stuff for it. B)

MK

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Mikro, that is the best how to and pic post I think I have ever seen.I learn by seeing and that was a great lesson.Is a arch top similar in construction,or is it a totally different process?I know the top is arched and carved different,but the bracing and steps is what I am asking about.Your work is tops....the lines and combo are just pure art !!!!!

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Mikro, that is the best how to and pic post I think I have ever seen.I learn by seeing and that was a great lesson.Is a arch top similar in construction,or is it a totally different process?I know the top is arched and carved different,but the bracing and steps is what I am asking about.Your work is tops....the lines and combo are just pure art !!!!!

Well Dean,

I appreciate your comments and thanks!

I will say that there are many great how to's out there that are far better and many are right here at PG. :D

I don't know, having never built an archtop. I will say that a Reso/dobro is different in many ways than other acoustics. The bracing is very different even though the body is really based on a 000 sized guitar. The neck is bolted on here and that is used as well on many acoustics as well as a dovetail joint. The fretboard though is also screwed down to the top with (4) four screws on a squareneck Reso. The fret markers are therefore different so as to hide the screws.

Mike

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mike it all is looking great. That jig looks ace as well. I need to come take a look at this thing in person.
Thanks Weston,

Just come on by!! :D I got some more done since the last post. The weather has been nice and I have had some time as well. :D

MK

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