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Bloodwood Guitar


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As suggested maybe you could incorperate your desire of this design without making the body that shape, it really would be uncomfortable to play. First it would be really wide/tall meaning any playing while sitting down would be difficult, second usually where you strumming arm lies across the body will really be right in between two points and that alone would make me ditch the idea, you're going to have bruises all over your strumming arm and armpit. As for ideas in using the theme, in the last year or two I've seen a couple really well done inlaid tops, meaning a large portion of the top is inlaid with a different type of wood. I'll have to search for the projects, but I know a few people here did this and they turned out well. You could go with whatever body wood you want inlaid with a bloodwood cross that covers most of the body. This way you could pick a more comfortable body design but still get the look you want. Anyhow, just some ideas to chuck around.

As for accessories with crosses, check ebay. I don't know of any tuner buttons in that shape, but I've seen so much else like knobs with crosses inlaid on the top(check QParts knobs) and even strap buttons made in the shape of crosses, like these strap buttons. I think that site has some knobs with crosses, though like the strap buttons are slightly different designs, but I'd bet you could find something that would be close enough on ebay. Also, as for wood, you can always add stain to certain woods. I'd bet you could get some mahogany fairly close to looking the color of bloodwood with some staining experiements. Again, just some thoughts to throw about. It seems you have a lot of good advice here already, I would definitely take it all into consideration before going ahead. Also, you don't necessarily have to chuck the idea, you can always save it till you've done a couple and know all the aspects of building. Well, best of luck, hope it all works out for you. J

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Thank you so much for all the help. I'm looking into other designs. I got a general idea from warmoth, but then realized that the explorer or star would be just as hard to play. hmmmm..... Is there anyone out there that thinks this design could be modifed (make it bulkier, cut off some of each curve) to make it work and be comfortable? Once again, thanks for all the advice, I am taking every word you say into consideration. I REALLY like the idea of a bloodwood cross inlayed (sp?).

And about having bruises on my arm, my arm actually rests on the wood.

Here's another design:

02--11--08_2103-thumb.png

Edited by Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist
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Pmarlins inlaid top thread

I found one of the projects I was thinking of. It was a really cool thing. As I said a few people did this last year, I believe doug also did one and maybe russ, but I can't recall off hand, if I find them I will add the links. Its an idea worth looking into, it looks really cool also. I'm sure you'll figure it out. I play so much around the house that I'm usually thinking about how it will play sitting down and for me personally it would be too tall to sit and be able to lean over and with how I sit, I would have one point in my armpit and another point right around my elbow. I know how you feel though, my preference for design isn't usually well suited for comfort, but I try to blend my style with comfort to get a guitar I will want to play a lot. If you had plenty of guitars and were touring and needed something to stand out, I would say go for it and make it a stage ax, but so few are really going to have that option. Again best of luck with everything. J

Here is HuntinDougs inlaid top guitar HuntinDougs inlaid top

Edited by jmrentis
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Well once again, thanks for the help. I'm thoroughly convinced that it would be hard to play, especially for tapping, so I have decided against it. Besides, I can't fall asleep with a guitar poking me. I'll do the maltese design once I'm famous. :D Instead, I plan to do a stealth design like metalhead6061 (we're friends and kinda in on this together). I might have some bloodwood inlay on the top still, but there doesn't seem to be much room. Definitely the ebony fretboard, neck-through, and either stained black or VERY dark red.

So, you guys think it's best to start off with cheap tonewood as opposed to pine? It's perfect guitar building conditions outside (snow, freezing rain) and I'd like to pick up some wood from homedepot before it gets to bad. I appreciate your concerns, opinions, and tips for a first time builder.

Edited by Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist
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The first tip I have is not to buy wood from home depot. Where are you located at? Search the yellow pages to find a lumber mill around you. Basswood, poplar, ash, and alder are all very common hardwoods that are as cheap if not cheaper than pine and are all common tone woods. A lumber mill will have those species in 8/4 thick and usually kiln dried to the proper moisture content. While home depot is only going to be 1" thick at best and is usually not fully dried.

I wouldn't completely abandone the cross design just yet. I definitely don't like the second design, but with some work the first one could be doable. You are going to have to make one out of something cheap first. Even that pink foam that is sold in panels as insulation. It is cheap and easy to work, and you would at least find out where your problem areas are. You might not get poked and proded as much as you would with wood (not necessarily a bad thing), but you'll find out where the problem areas are. You can just cut out and carve out the shape as you first planned it. Then you'll find out what needs to be fixed. The carve top will make the front a little more comfortable. Some bevels added to that will help reduce sharp edges. A belly carve like used on Strats would possibly help with the back. Perhaps change the shape a little and make it longer, thinner, and less circular. Look at Neil Moser's designs, I am betting not all of them have stayed the same from design conception to finished product.

Check out the link to Setch's page and look at his blog for making a Les Paul. While a different style of carve, it will give you a very good idea how to do one.

http://www.setchellguitars.co.uk/ant/blog/

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I know homedepot wood is crappy. I meant that I'd use cheap pine from there since its like 2 minutes away and the road conditions are going to be bad. But I didn't know that cheap tonewoods could be that cheap. I'll definitely check some lumberyards (a friend works at one). I hate to trash the original design too, but I just think that it should be set as more of a long term goal, or at least till I start getting gigs.

Wow these guitars are awesome, but look hard to play too: http://nealmoser.com/store/gallery/main.php

I especially like the siren and morpheus. Maybe someday.....

Edited by Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist
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Well once again, thanks for the help. I'm thoroughly convinced that it would be hard to play, especially for tapping, so I have decided against it. Besides, I can't fall asleep with a guitar poking me. I'll do the maltese design once I'm famous. :D Instead, I plan to do a stealth design like metalhead6061 (we're friends and kinda in on this together). I might have some bloodwood inlay on the top still, but there doesn't seem to be much room. Definitely the ebony fretboard, neck-through, and either stained black or VERY dark red.

So, you guys think it's best to start off with cheap tonewood as opposed to pine? It's perfect guitar building conditions outside (snow, freezing rain) and I'd like to pick up some wood from homedepot before it gets to bad. I appreciate your concerns, opinions, and tips for a first time builder.

check out the link i posted earlier a page ago

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Well once again, thanks for the help. I'm thoroughly convinced that it would be hard to play, especially for tapping, so I have decided against it. Besides, I can't fall asleep with a guitar poking me. I'll do the maltese design once I'm famous. :D Instead, I plan to do a stealth design like metalhead6061 (we're friends and kinda in on this together). I might have some bloodwood inlay on the top still, but there doesn't seem to be much room. Definitely the ebony fretboard, neck-through, and either stained black or VERY dark red.

So, you guys think it's best to start off with cheap tonewood as opposed to pine? It's perfect guitar building conditions outside (snow, freezing rain) and I'd like to pick up some wood from homedepot before it gets to bad. I appreciate your concerns, opinions, and tips for a first time builder.

check out the link i posted earlier a page ago

Wow, ya that's impressive. What did u use to cut it out? How do you plan to play it? Like a V? The problem I had with tapping was that my arm/shirt would get stuck on the upper left stick out thingy. I guess that Just about any design can be made if you plan to play standing up, huh? Also, what color do you plan to paint it?

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Well once again, thanks for the help. I'm thoroughly convinced that it would be hard to play, especially for tapping, so I have decided against it. Besides, I can't fall asleep with a guitar poking me. I'll do the maltese design once I'm famous. :D Instead, I plan to do a stealth design like metalhead6061 (we're friends and kinda in on this together). I might have some bloodwood inlay on the top still, but there doesn't seem to be much room. Definitely the ebony fretboard, neck-through, and either stained black or VERY dark red.

So, you guys think it's best to start off with cheap tonewood as opposed to pine? It's perfect guitar building conditions outside (snow, freezing rain) and I'd like to pick up some wood from homedepot before it gets to bad. I appreciate your concerns, opinions, and tips for a first time builder.

check out the link i posted earlier a page ago

Wow, ya that's impressive. What did u use to cut it out? How do you plan to play it? Like a V? The problem I had with tapping was that my arm/shirt would get stuck on the upper left stick out thingy. I guess that Just about any design can be made if you plan to play standing up, huh? Also, what color do you plan to paint it?

it wasnt mine. it was Metal matts. you should go to the topic and contact him about it.

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I've got the template for the stealth all cut out. It's beautiful. I can't wait to see the final product. I'd like to get some wood soon. A lumberyard near me sells 1" mahogany. I can get it custom cut, but I don't know if they will go as far as 1 3/4.... How would I glue two pieces back to back? (for the wings) would I just use normal clamps, or would I need some sort of press? Also, I would like to route out chambers BEFORE I glue the pieces together, as stated before. Opinions? I practiced sawing with the saw I plan to use today, and it cuts slowy. It's called a sabre. it's a jig. Can I cut the wings with it?

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Well, here's what I was thinking for the stealth. Stain black with bloodwood inlays:

stealth3.jpg

Also, I thought of an idea. Could I use two Pieces of Mahogany glued back to back, with chambers routed from the inside? (to lighten the guitar)

Now THAT'S a much improved design. If you're building it out of mahogany, you shouldn't really need to chamber it, unless you really like light guitars. You could sandwich two pieces together, but you'd have to take off quite a bit of thickness if you were to buy two 2" pieces. You could go halfway and get a bloodwood top with a hollowed out mahogany back, and you wouldn't have to do bloodwood inlays. I did a kinda-similar paint scheme for my first build.

http://public.fotki.com/xanthus/build_1/page3.html

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Well, here's what I was thinking for the stealth. Stain black with bloodwood inlays:

stealth3.jpg

Also, I thought of an idea. Could I use two Pieces of Mahogany glued back to back, with chambers routed from the inside? (to lighten the guitar)

Now THAT'S a much improved design. If you're building it out of mahogany, you shouldn't really need to chamber it, unless you really like light guitars. You could sandwich two pieces together, but you'd have to take off quite a bit of thickness if you were to buy two 2" pieces. You could go halfway and get a bloodwood top with a hollowed out mahogany back, and you wouldn't have to do bloodwood inlays. I did a kinda-similar paint scheme for my first build.

http://public.fotki.com/xanthus/build_1/page3.html

i thought he said 2 1" pieces?

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Just a suggestion... Slow down, study up on the functional elements of a guitar(scale length, intonation, fret leveling, bridges, string nut, tuners, pickups*functional knowledge not reading advertising information, electronics and so on...) so you understand what you are trying to build, then study up on wood (moisture content, effects of humidity, density, hardness, modulous of elasticity, grain structure, and so on...), then study up on adhesives (different types of adhesives and their charictoristics, how humidity effects cure rates, surface prep and so forth), study up on joining and what different types of joints are designed to do, study up on finishing (finish types, prep, application schedules, finish sanding and so forth), tools... at least study up on how to safely use the tools you will be using (jigs, templates, care of tools, sharpening all of which will add to safe operation). The absolute basics.

Then along the way, as you gain understanding keep design in the back of your mind. The basic knowledge will help you develop a decent, buildable, and hopefully functional design. The basic knowledge of wood as well as functional aspects will help you choose proper wood, and more importantly ensure you start with wood that is ready and suitable for use on an instrument.

Anyone can cut a hunk of wood, call it a body, buy a neck and screw them together. If you want to make a decent instrument, start by understanding what you are building, the function, materials, process and finish.

Take the suggestion for what it is worth. After reading through this topic, this is the best advise I could think of. I have seen first time builders make amazing instruments(absolutely increadable in most all regards). I see guys who are on to their 20th+ guitar that still don't seem to grasp the basics(some of those details may not be apearant to a beginner, but are pretty obvious after you have a fair grasp on building). The difference seems to consistently be dilligence in understanding the basics, or lack there of.

Peace,Rich

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Just a suggestion... Slow down, study up on the functional elements of a guitar(scale length, intonation, fret leveling, bridges, string nut, tuners, pickups*functional knowledge not reading advertising information, electronics and so on...) so you understand what you are trying to build, then study up on wood (moisture content, effects of humidity, density, hardness, modulous of elasticity, grain structure, and so on...), then study up on adhesives (different types of adhesives and their charictoristics, how humidity effects cure rates, surface prep and so forth), study up on joining and what different types of joints are designed to do, study up on finishing (finish types, prep, application schedules, finish sanding and so forth), tools... at least study up on how to safely use the tools you will be using (jigs, templates, care of tools, sharpening all of which will add to safe operation). The absolute basics.

Then along the way, as you gain understanding keep design in the back of your mind. The basic knowledge will help you develop a decent, buildable, and hopefully functional design. The basic knowledge of wood as well as functional aspects will help you choose proper wood, and more importantly ensure you start with wood that is ready and suitable for use on an instrument.

Anyone can cut a hunk of wood, call it a body, buy a neck and screw them together. If you want to make a decent instrument, start by understanding what you are building, the function, materials, process and finish.

Take the suggestion for what it is worth. After reading through this topic, this is the best advise I could think of. I have seen first time builders make amazing instruments(absolutely increadable in most all regards). I see guys who are on to their 20th+ guitar that still don't seem to grasp the basics(some of those details may not be apearant to a beginner, but are pretty obvious after you have a fair grasp on building). The difference seems to consistently be dilligence in understanding the basics, or lack there of.

Peace,Rich

Thank's. I've been reading just about every second I could for the last 2 weeks (5-10 hours a day) and I still feel like I need more information. I'll try to find out as much information as I can about all the topics you mentioned, and probably more. Any links, articles and tips are apprecitated. Back to :D

BTW: Can you even use a jig saw to cut the wings?

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You can use a jigsaw to rough cut the body shape. (I actually know a guy who rough cut a body with a hacksaw. I wouldn't recommend it...)

You have to be careful and leave more waste outside the line you're cutting, though, because jigsaws aren't all that accurate, and, especially with a thick piece of wood like a guitar body blank, the blade won't stay perfectly vertical.

Rich offers excellent advice just above.

Edited by Rick500
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Rick's advise on the jigsaw is pretty on the money. You can use a jig saw to ruff cut body wood. When you turn a corner you have to be very careful because the blade will tend to want to not cut perpendicular. If you need to use a jig saw you can, but you should use it to ruff cut the pattern oversized, then use a router and template or possibly an oscillating sander or guided sander and template to true it up. If you do use a jig saw, go very slow and you could minimise the risk by drilling or cutting relief cuts(or holes) at points around curves.

There are a lot of good tutorials on the main Project guitar page, the tutorial section has some nifty tutorials, there are a lot of handy tips in the tools section, there are some good tips to be found in the finishing section. The MIMFlink has a solid database of topics, I would highly recommend you do a lot of reading there, certainly read through the new builder mini faqs link. FRETSlink has a lot of good info. Stewart Macdonaldlink has a bunch of good free information. The wood handbooklink (published by the US dept. of Agriculture and forestry dept.) has a LOT of solid information regarding wood, glue, joining, finishes, drying wood, effects of shrinkage. Take a look around at Kathy's page also (I think you will find she is highly regarded by most people, because her pages are very well written, and she has great tool and jig info from an amature(like most of us) point of view)link. I could keep listing pages, but that is more than a load and a half of info.

Peace,Rich

P.S. At this stage it would be smart to limit the research into certain strongly opinion based information (this wood/metal sounds like this or that, this is a "tone killer" that adds/subtracts/or multiplies "tone"), most of which is quite subjective, rarely considers significant variables, and most of the time is discussed using meaningless terms such as "tone Killer" (unless of course they are refering to the off switch on an amp). Curb too much focus on design until your function catches up with form.

P.S. take 2 :D ,

I've been reading just about every second I could for the last 2 weeks (5-10 hours a day) and I still feel like I need more information.
FWIW, I spent years working on set ups, fretting, refinishing, inlay, electronics, and repair before I built my first from scratch. There is a lot of things to learn, and it does take time. Edited by fryovanni
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Those bevels were done by hand.

And yes, you could do a M/B/M neck sure.

what did u use? spokeshave?

Used a half-round file on the flat side, marking out the finishing lines on the top and side. When I got close, I took the same halfround file and wrapped it in sandpaper and finished up. With an even hand, even strokes, and a careful eye on the finishing lines, it's no problem.

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