Set-neck Exp Copy

[Prostheta]

Sorry for the pathetic lack of a detailed progress log on this one. This is actually a REALLY REALLY old project I picked back up recently which has been laying around for almost two years.

The donor body - this is an LTD EXP-200 bolt-on which I traced around onto a body blank.

5mm (2"!!) thick four-piece mahogany body plank (joke intended) I cobbled together moons ago. All things considered, the blank glued up nicely (given my relative lack of experience and foresight back then) and I only had to chop and rejoint one piece (top back "wing" corner). Foresight would have made me make this thinner. My EXP body measures 37-38mm thick - not 45mm....this is why I shelved it as I didn't have a reliable method of rethicknessing this mammoth body shape

Two pictures (sorry about the mahoosive jump ahead in time) of the finished item mid-finishing. Fingerboard is eBay-snaffled Indian rosewood with notched diamond pearl inlays set at an angle. Ran out of masking tape. Must go buy some now. Bye.

PS. Using Plasticote on this one due to lack of space and funds. It's actually working out extremely well. DIY special!!

[westhemann]

That is a good looking Explorer....

[Prostheta]

Which one? My LTD or the duplicate? :-D

BTW - that neck on my LTD is the 24-fret 27" scale maple/bubinga/macassar ebony conversion neck. It went on for test fitting a few weeks ago and i've liked it so much that I can't get around to taking it off to finish

I have to admit that i'm taking a certain degree of enjoyment in the fact I managed to salvage what was originally a POS sapele body blank I glued up a couple of years ago, screwed up the build in terms of not considering thicknessing (duh) and brought back "from the pile".

At least I didn't burn it.

Oh yeah - specs....

- 660mm scale length (26")

- 22 frets (saves you counting)

- SM0154 size fretwire

- long/wide neck tenon into back of neck pickup cavity

- flush heel (don't like the step that Gibson use)

The remaining work I need to do:

- grounded hardware via stop tail posts (i hope this works)

- cut a better nut than my fantastic temporary nuts which go ping when tuning

- fret levelling

- install Straplocks

- drill control layout and hope I don't screw up the finish or tear out wood :-\

- find money to buy a set of APH1s (fairly important, I feel)

I'm actually very very impressed with how well the Plasticote has worked out. The finish is much quicker curing than general auto paints. I used Rustin's Grain Filler, which seemed a little chalky to me on the first attempt, but it seems to have done the trick. I'm still debating on what clear to use - Super Clear or the Plasticote Polyurethane. I suspect the poly will add a yellow tint to the white, whereas I won't get the same protection from the clear. Hmm. Decisions.

The mistakes I have made on this build/things i've learnt:

- sides of the neck mortice were misaligned and I had to glue in a patch of sapele to bring it back into line. This is both annoying and undermines your confidence.

- crushed fibres when clamping the neck blank to cut the scarf, and the grain raising when I started finishing, leaving an impression on the headstock

- used clear CA in my inlaying....should have used black....that's what making snap decisions gets you....

- nothing annoys you more than a glueline appearing through your primer (rear of bottom horn) and then discovering that sanding back and dropfilling the gap with CA causes sapele to consume CA like Richard Pryor consumed vodka and "washing powder"

- my "workshop" is too small and cluttered to keep me sane and/or warm

- raising dings in mahogany with wet tissue and a soldering iron saves one's bacon

- cork floor tiles on reduction at B&Q are a lifesaver

- Forstner bits should have earned somebody a Nobel Peace Prize

- CA'ing fingers up leaves you with hands like a leperous alligator

- pillar drills with the bed locked at 90° to cut a jack hole are a man's best friend

- I hate neck angles, and I hate shaping the face of heels more

- I love that tip about pulling sandpaper through a heel face to flatten it :-D

- gloss black is a pain/gloss white is awesome

Solid colours hide all manner of sins, so I might get away with this one.

Edited November 2, 2008 by Prostheta

[WezV]

- gloss black is a pain/gloss white is awesome

indeed.. but gloss black repairs very nicely, i hate repairs on white guitars!!

[Prostheta]

I always get witness lines when touching up black, as there are SO many different shades like golden black, autumn black, Olympic black and that PITA Gibson 1950s vintage black.

Pictures taken five minutes ago after i've remasked the fingerboard and applied what I hope to be the last coat of white.

This is where I shimmed in some sapele after screwing up the neck pocket (not as thick as this shows!)

Area of expanded/crushed fibres on headstock.

Edited November 2, 2008 by Prostheta

[westhemann]

Hey,man...it's all good in the end,right?

I have some old projects needing some healing hands...I hope to get them all sorted soon.

[Prostheta]

I have some old projects needing some healing hands...I hope to get them all sorted soon.

That reminds me...I have a Koa-top/backed ash Tele with a maple/ebony neck (Koa headcap) to complete "sometime" also.

It's weird though, Wes. Perhaps i've fallen prey to the voodoo around guitar building, but somehow still this build feels "dirty" because of the POS blank I recovered to complete it yet it's a decent instrument (until I do the fretwork) in terms of important structural points covered. I know that the wood is sound, and I rejointed the bits I originally screwed up but it still feels like-that-dirty-blank which gathered no end of dust, and I tossed about more than once. The neck joint is sound now I rejigged the mortice. I'm very pleased I managed to get it right after the work put in. Perhaps it'll be the underdog, or a dirty tramp in wolfs clothing

I'm going passive on this one because I want to hear how the woods and the build sounds. Very excited about getting the opportunity to do that.

Edited November 2, 2008 by Prostheta

[DGW]

That looks awesome!

But I really don't understand going through all the trouble af doing such a fantastic build, only to drop your standards in the end by using "Plasticote".

IMO, that guitar deserves much better.

[Prostheta]

Thanks - I no longer have the workspace I used to, and I don't have the gear to run a reasonable sprayjob so it was a case of needs-must. To be honest, it's turned out a *lot* better than I would normally credit to rattlecans. Given the way the body was originally joined from five pieces of wood, any kind of solid coat would make it look better, and given what facilities I have on hand it's the best it's going to get anytime soon!

Hmmm. Now, black Corian nut or white Corian nut? Since i'm using black hardware I might stick with black.

[westhemann]

I always laugh at "That guitar deserves better" replies...

The guitar deserves what the guitar gets,no more,no less.it WAS a piece of blank wood...now it is a guitar...

[Prostheta]

Indeed. It was a lump of sh...shapele at one point :-D

Here's the fingerboard now i've peeled the masking tape off. Colour corrected due to the flourescents in the garage/gym not being ideal lighting for these photos. I'm hanging the guitar off my Cornerman kickbag frame at the moment. Ideal!

Incidentally, this is the first instrument that I attempted a "slanted scarf" on, where the grain of the headstock scarfing is aligned with the direction of the tuners. I caused a bit more waste than I could have done but I believe that the end purpose was worth it. I felt that the grain running in the same direction as the neck would be a weak point with grain running at an angle across the headstock. The three high tuners would be the only ones at risk I guess, but I can't see any reason as to why it's not worthwhile doing it if you can.

Control layout will be two 500k volumes, tone for neck only and a three-way toggle. Need to scrape money together to buy pickups. I guess that will prevent me from rushing this and falling over at the last hurdle.

Oh yes, i'd originally envisaged attempting this instead of a stop-tail. Basically, angled entry-points for the strings off the bridge with similarly angled recessed ferrules at the rear. A lot of work just as proof of concept, and despite it being pretty cool I though that not screwing it up might be more useful:

Edited November 2, 2008 by Prostheta

[DGW]

I always laugh at "That guitar deserves better" replies...

The guitar deserves what the guitar gets,no more,no less.it WAS a piece of blank wood...now it is a guitar...

My comment was meant to be taken as a compliment, not a "dig".

And EVERY guitar begins as a piece of wood.

Thanks for pointing out the obvious.

[westhemann]

Sure thing...

And EVERY guitar begins as a piece of wood.

My point exactly...all of you guys that look down your noses at personal choices made by others and demand to know why someone would

drop your standards in the end by using "Plasticote".

should consider that it is not your choice,not your guitar,and if the craftsmanship and finished product is as was intended,then maybe you should stop throwing insulting pontifications on how YOU "would have done it better..."

.

You know what..I editted out all of what I had here because it does not matter..but honestly,Dino,you should check your attitude.

[Southpa]

Nuthin wrong with Plasti-kote, best rattle can "super-lacquer" I ever used.

Its all trial and error and I admire folks who can put out something nice with limited resources. If you can't make the stuff work for you then you have a problem. Nice job with the white Explorer Pros. I really like the well-defined volute...reminder...I gotta work on my volutes.

Edited November 2, 2008 by Southpa

[Prostheta]

Thanks - that's really appreciated. I've always found that blending the neck profile curve through into the sides of the headstock either side of a volute challenging. I used to use the bobbin sander to do these from start to finish, but they can remove material at a scary rate and bite grooves in when you don't want them to.

I used the bobbin sander to create the curve in front of the volute into the flat of the headstock, cut the back of the blank down to a couple of mm off the final "neck thickness" across the back of the first fret area with the bobbin sander, and then shaped the neck profile into it. I moved onto the rasp to break that up into the volute, rough sanded with 60 grit paper and smoothed it in using Irwin Stanley-knife style blades with a burr turned to make it into a small scraper. Great cheap trick tools! I actually really enjoy crafting volutes now since my Biohaz 8-string:

(greasy neck in the centre is the neck I took off the LTD - the one on the LTD is the 27" extended scale neck)

Did I mention I love Explorers?

Edited November 2, 2008 by Prostheta

[ae3]

I got a can of plasticote on the table next to me for my RR project

[Southpa]

I have a set of those tiny rasps for shaping stuff like volutes, they go by the name of "riffler files". Very efficient little tools, you can remove and shape wood very quickly, then sand etc. I just keep forgetting to leave that area thick enough to make a volute. Most of the necks I've built just flow into the headstock.

[Prostheta]

I hear you on that one. I used to thickness the scarfed in piece which makes up the headstock before trueing and glueing, which never really left enough material for a volute. I now thickness the back of the headstock out with an overhead router jig which leaves plenty. I've not got any riffler files although i've been tempted. I used a big rasp, double handed which makes short work of it! Very Perry-style.

[westhemann]

Yeah I use a small rasp...one of those little four sided jobs...about 1" wide by 1/4" thick...I shape my whole neck with it.

[DGW]

should consider that it is not your choice,not your guitar,and if the craftsmanship and finished product is as was intended,then maybe you should stop throwing insulting pontifications on how YOU "would have done it better..."

Amazing how you can twist my comments that were meant as a compliment into "insulting pontifications on how I could have done it better".

Lumi's own comments of having "limited funds and limited space" as his reasons for using plasticote were what lead me to believe he was "lowering his standards" or "compromising" if you will, so please do not pose your own interpretations.

You know what..I editted out all of what I had here because it does not matter..but honestly,Dino,you should check your attitude.

Wes, this is the second consecutive thread where you've appeared to be very confrontational with me.

If you have a problem with me, please try to be considerate and send me a PM or an email so we can discuss it without disturbing other members's threads.

Thanks.

[Prostheta]

Lumi is the name of the build ;-D

Given the tests i've done with Plasticote, I've found that given as much attention to the prep as humanly possible, not whaling the paint on and sanding between coats has produced a strong solid finish. It is easy however, to use rattlecans badly and produce a soft eternally-plastic finish. This is pretty thin compared to most solid colour instruments, so a good protective clear will finish the job nicely. Limited funds and limited space do not always go hand in hand with compromising standards, hence why the build has turned out well despite complications along the way. Everything has been thought out before I jumped in (other than the original blank being glued up....). My wife is the do-er. I'm the thinker.

You might think i've lowered my standards as I listed various points on what I have learnt from this build or what didn't turn out as well as I wanted. This was more down to me wanting to illustrate an honest build same as many builders on here do. Not every build can be perfect for most people. The other option would be to take photos which hide imperfection and tout the guitar as pro-level. I'm not interested in the kudos or repetetive "awesome build, dude" posts.

I think that given the right attitude and direction, having limited space (and recovering an existing POS blank!) and resources doesn't mean you can't achieve great results. That is paramount to the spirit of this board in my opinion.

Sorry if i'm soapboxing or you think i'm digging at you DGW. I'm not. I think that perhaps you don't click onto my building ethos, or have taken the thread at face value. Fair enough, I say!

I think that results speak for themselves, no matter what road was traversed to get to that point. At least it's not a lump of vaguely Explorer-ish looking sapele sat in my wood stash waiting for Godot.

Edited November 3, 2008 by Prostheta

[DGW]

Lumi is the name of the build ;-D

My apologies.

Given the tests i've done with Plasticote, I've found that given as much attention to the prep as humanly possible, not whaling the paint on and sanding between coats has produced a strong solid finish. It is easy however, to use rattlecans badly and produce a soft eternally-plastic finish. This is pretty thin compared to most solid colour instruments, so a good protective clear will finish the job nicely. Limited funds and limited space do not always go hand in hand with compromising standards, hence why the build has turned out well despite complications along the way. Everything has been thought out before I jumped in (other than the original blank being glued up....). My wife is the do-er. I'm the thinker.

You might think i've lowered my standards as I listed various points on what I have learnt from this build or what didn't turn out as well as I wanted. This was more down to me wanting to illustrate an honest build same as many builders on here do. Not every build can be perfect for most people. The other option would be to take photos which hide imperfection and tout the guitar as pro-level. I'm not interested in the kudos or repetetive "awesome build, dude" posts.

I think that given the right attitude and direction, having limited space (and recovering an existing POS blank!) and resources doesn't mean you can't achieve great results. That is paramount to the spirit of this board in my opinion.

Sorry if i'm soapboxing or you think i'm digging at you DGW. I'm not. I think that perhaps you don't click onto my building ethos, or have taken the thread at face value. Fair enough, I say!

I think that results speak for themselves, no matter what road was traversed to get to that point. At least it's not a lump of vaguely Explorer-ish looking sapele sat in my wood stash waiting for Godot.

There was another well known painter who wrote a book on how to paint guitars with spraypaint ...

He claimed to have used this particular paint for the last 20 years and "gauranteed" professional results.

I, like so many others, bought into it.

Long story short ... a recent "newsletter" from this same author warned others from using this same paint.

While there is no way for me to compare your "testing" to the said authors 20 years of experience, it is my opinion, based on my own experiences, that there are far better ways to finish a guitar ... even for those with limited space and a limited budget.

And while I understand it was not your intent to post such a thread for the purpose of hearing "awesome build dude" ... I did offer a sincere compliment. You did a great job on your build and you should know that myself and others acknowledge your talents. And please understand that the comment regarding your choice of paint was my opinion based on my own experiences with spraypaint. Nothing more, nothing less. Again, I have alot of experience with rattlecan paintjobs and know that you can acheive amazing results ... initially. The problem lies with these paints standing the test of time.

Maybe plasticote is different ... I don't know.

But I do know that I've been using sprayguns for the past 3-4 years now and there's absolutely no comarison in the quality and durability of the finished product.

But in the end ... if plasticote is good enough for you, than I guess that's all that really matters.

Edited November 4, 2008 by DGW

[WezV]

But in the end ... if plasticote is good enough for you, than I guess that's all that really matters.

personally i think if prostheta can get a good finish with spray cans... that is all that really matters!!! Some of your statements seem to assume he has low standards when maybe they should assume higher skill

personally, i hate spray cans... mainly because i could never get a good finish with them. but then i outsource most of my spray work now so i dont have to worry about it now

but then i have been surprised by the quality of some of the can finishes i have seen, sure some may not age perfectly. But i have seen rattle can spray jobs a few years old and regularly played that still looked better than something fresh from the gibson factory. And i dread to think how many £1000+ factory guitars i have seen with flawed finishes that did not hold up well to the test of time, some very nice guitars i would love to own. But then finish is only one element of what makes a guitar good... and to me its not the most important

one on here that really impressed me recently was this:

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...38011&st=30

i have seen 'professional' gold leaf under sprayed lacquer finishes before in the flesh and they are rarely 'perfect'. The same goes for some swirls. Yet here we have both combined into one finish and covered with quite cheap automotive rattle can paint.... and i would say it beats most of the professional ones i have seen. And i bet anyone who has tried a swirl or a gold leaf finish would agree.

I guess i am suggesting you can stick with what works for you, but remain open to the possibility that other things may work better for other people than they did for you, or me, or anyone else saying its crap for that matter!

[jaycee]

Hmmm. Now, black Corian nut or white Corian nut? Since i'm using black hardware I might stick with black.

I'm looking at corian for nuts at he moment, if you go on ebay and look at "pen blanks" there are some sellers that sell 12mm x 120mm corian blanks, should make good nuts me thinks

[Prostheta]

Patience and good prep count for more than anything else. Been burnt on both of those counts before. FWIW, before I laid on the coat that is currently curing, the surfaces were sanded with 320 and when tack ragged and cleaned with a damp cloth the white was smooooooth and satiny. Enough that I was tempted to go straight to clears (decided on Plasticote super clear as the Poly shows significant yellowing on my test pieces) but I think a few more layers will be required. I can't see myself moving to clears for a fews weeks.

DGW - whether you genuinely mean well or you are deliberately being derisory, arrogant and snobbish, you're just not coming across as very constructive. I would recommend posting references to this "newsletter" rather than quoting it offhand. In fact, don't bother. If you've nothing useful to add to this thread, don't post in it. I wouldn't consider it an abuse of moderation removing any of your subsequent posts. In fact, i'd like the last minute of my life I spent typing this back.