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Multi-scale 7 String Sd7


Kenny

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cherryburstsmallwn8.jpg

Alright, this is a new build of mine

if you guys recall a while back i built one very similar to this, i revised the problems that i had with that one, and instead of devoting my energy to fixing it, (and money, i never had pickups :D) i decided to revise the design and build a new one

Specs:

7 strings

Hond. Mahogany body

Hond. Mahogany neck with 2 maple strings, and maple scarf accent (see my not so superstrat build)

ebony fretboard

Multi scale 27"-25" perpendicular at the 12th fret

maple binding

possibly maple inlays (maybe something else)

quilted maple top

"flame" burst

hand wound pickups

wooden bridge

ect ect

the neck blank is already made, the body is cut out and the top is gluing as we speak so once the top is assembled on the body i will report back :D

Kenny

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Disagree with neck pickup being straight. My eye sees all of these swooshing, flowing non-parallel lines, and then bam - there's a STRAIGHT pickup :D

Might be just me, though. I feel the 'hips' could be taken in a bit as well.

Is the parallel fret at 12 going to make playing open chords overly difficult? Is the placement of the tuners going to interfere with string pull through the nut?

I'd like to hear a bit more about you hand-winding your pickups, too...

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i think the 12th being perp looks good with those block markers, i dont see it being a problem with chords - but possibly not ideal either... it looks like you could still barre straight across at the first

i agree about the pickups... both straight or both angled!

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It is hard to build a Les Paul style multiscale that looks visually appealing. I think I would refine the shape to reflect the angles a little more. I would be subtle however and not do anything drastic... just kind of hint that the thing is slanted....

+1 on Neck Pickup needs to be angled

+1 on Thing being hippie... looks to much like a Gibson Nighthawk. Never liked the nighthawk...

+1 Xanthus

Still a great looking machine that will be better in real wood.

Good Luck! Can't wait to see it finished.

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restoration - does it really look the nighthawk? :D

the thing about the neck pickup is that its much easier for me to do the neck joint when the end of the neck is square, in order to slant the pickup i would have to play around with the fretboard shape and the lower horn

do you think i should adjust the pickup? it would be mostly a cosmetic adjustment since i cant really angle it that much

xanthus - about the barred chords im the other one i made theres no problem, i mean a Barre F isnt as easy as it normally would be, but all the other chords are almost easier, becuase when your standing up the frets almost conform to the angle of your hands.

and what did you mean about the hips? like where the body pinches in, or the "butt" of the guitar?

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nighthawk.jpgcherryburstsmallwn8.jpg

Well, it does look like a Nighthawk, but the multiscale neck and the slanted bridge makes it for a more flowing design. The NH with the slanted pup only looks out of place.

I do like the design, maybe slanting the neck pup the other way like Perry does will make it more appealing? I wouln't mess with the shape, I think it is perfect. Inlays is another thing, but as long as you like them (or who ever will be the owner), that is all that matters.

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The Nighthawk looks similar, but it's COMPLETELY different. The Nighthawk has this meek and shy look on it's face, whilst yours is very aggresive.

Maybe because your bridge p'up is slanted the other way...

Yours is very aesthetically pleasing, especially from an 80's metal standpoint :D

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The Nighthawk looks similar, but it's COMPLETELY different. The Nighthawk has this meek and shy look on it's face, whilst yours is very aggresive.

Maybe because your bridge p'up is slanted the other way...

Yours is very aesthetically pleasing, especially from an 80's metal standpoint :D

I agree.

For me, the straight pickup adds a mid-point of balance before the shift in line direction.

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I DIG. end of story. How does it feel to play on fanned frets? I never had but i know you have on your last build (which was sweet btw).

the multi scale neck feels really natural to play. you know how sometimes you have to shift your hand in an akward position to play a certain chord? just by nature of your hands natural angle its more ergonomic? and fluid feeling to play. im not used to 7 strings though so the neck still feels wide to me :D

the markers really make the world of difference when your trying to find your way since the slanting frets can be a little disorienting.

Cavities and chanels for wires are routed, top is being glued on to the body as we speak B)

ill post pictures after the top is routed flush with the body :D

Kenny

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  • 2 weeks later...

well

the body's already cut out, and top glued on neck ready to go (atleast the blank with scarfed headstocK) i ordered the ebony for the fingerboard last week so im just waiting on that to continue

the reason i cant progress until i have that is that i taper the fingerboard on my table saw so i get a very accurate taper, i then use that as a routing guide so that the rest of the neck is built around the fretboard

about the bridge, i dont have it made for this guitar since im waiting on the ebony for the baseplate

i don't have any other pictures that i can find, however when i make this one, i will document it. But really all it is is a piece of ebony glued to a piece of maple, and then a "cavity" is routed out that houses the saddles, then the appropriate holes are drilled, its a very simple design, and it holds up very well. the one that i did for my original 7 string lp has not shown any signs of stress, glue lines are fine and its still as adjustable as it was on day 1.

as for Erik's PDF i found it on this site, so its still here somewhere...however ill post a link to it when i finish uploading it, if you want to find it on the site the title of it is GBO v8

Kenny

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  • 3 weeks later...

alright, so i just got back into the shop and got a little work done on this one

the inlays were just roughed out, still final shaping to do on all of them; hehe you can see the hole where i hang the neck in the first picture :D

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Top Lamination

The back

and since im broke ive decided instead of spraying a candy burst im just going to do the burst by hand

this one should start progressing fast now that my shops not flooded anymore

Kenny

Edited by Kenny
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  • 2 weeks later...

marks from clamping :-p

i had to scrap that fretboard since when i was radiusing it the board moved a little and it dipped in one area

oh well, im halfway done with the second, i just dont have as much time to work on it as i would like

will post more when i make more progress

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  • 4 weeks later...

Update:

So I've been out of my shop for a while since I've been really busy with school and other things, but I got back in this week and got a lot of work done on this guitar and some other projects.

I don't recall what I last posted but this is what I have done

- Took about .75" off of body thickness bringing it to 2 inches after top is carved

- Made a new fretboard (old one was destroyed in a terrible router radiusing accident.... RIP....)

- Inlayed board

- Radiused new board (I made a new jig since i was so paranoid from...well...I don't want to talk about it...)

- Angled headstock to accommodate for slanted nut

- Glued on fretboard

- Glued on maple cap for headstock

- Filed out slot for nut

- Shaped most of the neck and volute (in the 2nd picture you can see how towards the heel I didn't shape as much yet since I don't know how I'm doing to do the transition to the body)

- Side dots

- Routed neck cavity

- Routed pickup cavities

- Drilled electronics/string holes

- Carved out the "Belly Carve"

- Cut all frets to final length, in preperation for "semi-hemi/quarter spherical/bullet fret ends"

So here is where I am:

I'm gonna do final sanding on fretboard, then fret the neck

When I was routing the neck pocket I made a stupid mistake and had the neck placed too far into the body (the holes had already been drilled for the bridge); luckily when the neck was slid back into the position its supposed to sit it fits near perfectly. To compensate for a 4th contact point being lost i'm gluing the neck with WS epoxy and am filling in the extra neck cavity :D

Also when i was drilling the holes for the strings/bridge the bit twisted inside the body and came out crooked in the back regardless of how slow I went and how many times i backed out to clear the hole....so to remedy this i filled the holes with epoxy and tried again....exact same results...any ideas on how to fix/cover this?

Also how should I do the heel transition, I'm considering two things, the first one how it is right now, the heel just follows the shape of the body (but its strange becuase where the lower strings are ends abruptly); Or a Myka style transition, what do you think?

Now to some pics; enjoy B)

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Here are some other pics

EDIT: on the first picture it looks like the pickup routes are uneven, I assure you thats just an illusion :D

Kenny

Edited by Kenny
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