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Hangover Past The 24th Fret


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I'm wanting to nip off the bit hanging over the 24th fret and leave the end flush with the end of the neck. I'm undecided whether I'll leave the corners square or round them out with the end of the neck. The whole reason to do this is for a 3-pup ax I'm working on. It's a 24 fret neck with a 24.75 scale, so space between the neck joint and bridge is REALLY tight. If I can have another 1/8", even that much would help.

The basic question is how much wood do I need past the fret for it to remain stable.

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This question sounds very familiar!

I'm with Neil Beith, I would chop it off flush with the fret! (If thats what he meant...? and as long as the trussrod isn't in the way)

If you really wanted to play it safe I would pull the last fret out and get an idea of how tight it is. And maybe make the slot wider if you think it needs it and glue the fret back in

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In that 2nd picture it looks like there is plenty of meat remain after the 24th fret to the butt of the neck to just cut it flush.

Rosewood is plenty strong enough to only need a few mm after the fret.

My main concern would be the look of the fretboard with the end chopped off - I think it would look rather odd in my opinion with a very small overhang after the last fret.

In a similar vein to the other neck cutting thread I assume from the pictures that the truss rod adjustment is at the top of the neck and it wouldn't come all the way to the 23rd fret . . so you could convert the neck to a 22 fret neck keeping the looks and allowing you the room for the 3 pickups. It's something to think about! :D

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It is a headstock-adjusted truss rod. Hmmmm... So how would I go about finding the end of the truss rod without major surgery? Converting it to a 22-fret sounds like a good idea. This would have an added benefit of moving the bridge back further towards the bottom (the body is HUGE).

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It is a headstock-adjusted truss rod. Hmmmm... So how would I go about finding the end of the truss rod without major surgery? Converting it to a 22-fret sounds like a good idea. This would have an added benefit of moving the bridge back further towards the bottom (the body is HUGE).

The obvious way is get the trusty steam iron out and flirt the fret board off but if you don't want to the do this then the only tool I can think of that could help is one of those Black & Decker pipe detector gizmos.

The other way to check is if you mark a dead centre line on the heel then use a small drill bit (taped off to the depth of the 23 fret) then drill a couple of bore holes in the heel if you hit metal you'd know the truss rod is too close.

Personally I'd just make the assumption that the truss rod just wouldn't come to the 23rd fret on the basis that they'll use the same truss rod for there 22 fret necks and also truss rods in general always finish a good inch or two from the end of the neck.

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What I ended up doing was drilling a hole through the side of the neck between the 22nd & 23rd fret. I didn't hit metal, so I went ahead and took off the bottom of the neck just behind the 23rd. This will give me plenty of room to fine-tune the end AND it gave me another 11/16" of room. When it was as tight for room as it was, that's a HUGE amount.

Thanks for the input, suggestions, and what to look out for. It all worked out great.

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Obviously, it isn't contoured yet, but the surgery basically went off without a hitch. And, as I said, I gained a LOT of room. As it was, the neck pup ring was up against the hangover and the bridge pup ring was at the intonation line. This little bit of room really opened things up.

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