jeremywills Posted January 14, 2003 Report Share Posted January 14, 2003 hmm, i never thought to make a cover, scratches head, thinks about what dave said, rethinks it again, hmm good idea, thanks for the tip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted January 15, 2003 Report Share Posted January 15, 2003 You can make control cavity covers or pickguards any color you want if you have that colored paint and it will stick to plexiglas. You paint the underside, which will look like it's been brush painted, but not from the other side at all. I've made several black control cavity covers. They look even better than the ones you buy. Just don't scratch up the clear plexiglas and they are shiney and clean looking as can be. The black condutive paint even does the job just fine. Clean the plexiglas with naptha and let dry before painting. Don't sand the plexiglas anywhere but the edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehle Posted January 15, 2003 Report Share Posted January 15, 2003 Naptha, as it turns out, is what they sell as Zippo lighter fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 16, 2003 Report Share Posted January 16, 2003 Krylon 1914 Rich Plum Gloss is an exact dead on match to DiMarzio purple parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 26, 2003 Report Share Posted January 26, 2003 If your trying to do an inlay using epoxy and need a syringe to help keep your pour clean, go to Walgreens and ask the pharmacy tech for an Oral Syringe, they give them away free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted January 27, 2003 Report Share Posted January 27, 2003 Brian, I never used one of those for gluing, but I'm wondering if after the epoxy still in the syringe dries, if it's easy to get out. As long as we're talking about glue, I'll share a tip for using super-glue, which often turns into 'nightmare glue' if you have problems with the tip getting clogged. I guess some of you notice that after you squeeze the bottle to try to force some glue out, then finally poke something into the tip to clear it, that suddenly 50 times the amount of glue you need comes out of the tip. What I do, is always have an extra screw-on tip and I rotate the tips. The clogged one goes into a jar with acetone and soaks in it. When I get a chance, I'll clean all the glue out of it. Being soaked in acetone makes it pretty easy. You always need that cleaned tip on standby, so when you want to use super-glue and the tip is clogged, don't mess with it. Switch to a clean tip, and do your gluing with no forceful squeezing and poking around in the tip to unclog it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jupiter Posted January 27, 2003 Report Share Posted January 27, 2003 Hey Brian! Would you consider doing a tutorial on those epoxy inlays you mentioned? Sounds interesting. Or just post it here on the forum if it's that simple. Thanks! Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted January 27, 2003 Report Share Posted January 27, 2003 When I do my test run this week I'll photgraph it and make a mini. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevan Posted February 2, 2003 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2003 Just don't scratch up the clear plexiglas and they are shiney and clean looking as can be. A few strips of 2" masking tape on the "face" of the plexiglass will keep it from getting accidentally scratched while working on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted February 16, 2003 Report Share Posted February 16, 2003 Copy and Paste from Scott Rosenberger's post in another section as per request! Heres a tip for removing old veneer. I use an Iron and an old t-shirt.Dampen the t-shirt and Use the steam setting on the iron. The steam softens the glue really fast and doesn't seem to bother the wood underneath. It removes most of the glue as well which makes for easier sanding. Works really well when removing a fabric top as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted August 30, 2003 Report Share Posted August 30, 2003 Floyd Rose Locking Nuts Stamp on Bottom R2 is generally used for a close or tight radius neck such as a 8" or 10" radius R4 is generally used for a wider radius neck such as a 12" on up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted August 30, 2003 Report Share Posted August 30, 2003 OK, first speaker post! I like to buy and try lots of old weird speakers I find on e-Bay in my amps. I also don't like to pay very much for them. So I hunt down the ones that have slight tears or rips, 'cause they always go for cheaper. Especially if it's only one speaker (most people are looking for matched pairs) So a single speaker with a slight tear or rip is right up my alley. Cheap. This is really a recipe for doping the surround of a speaker, be it new or old, but it also works perfectly for repairing small holes/tears as well. Forget that napkin/silicone/paper towel stuff. This is sooo much better. Weldwood Contact Cement, RED label, says 'original formula' on it (they have a few different ones) mixed about 50/50 with some Naptha. Use a smallish paintbrush to apply. If I'm doing the surround (that's usually where the rips/tears are anyway) I hold the paintbrush still and rotate the speaker on it's back around in circles, lightly keeping the paintbrush on the surround and re-dipping into the cement mix when needed. This formula looks -very- professional, not like a lot of goobered-up silicone-blobbed speakers I see that have been repaired. This stuff looks like it came from the factory that way, and you can thin it as much as you want with the Naptha, so if it only needs a very thin coat, you can mix it down more. It's also great because the thinning allows the cement to really meld into the paper fibers and bond extremely well, not like some big blob of black goop or silicone... There's my speaker tip. I have saved literally hundreds of dollars by buying speakers like this, and it has allowed me to experiment with some really old and extremely toneful speakers of yesteryear for very little investment. Once it has a rip or tear in it, all the big-money bidders look the other way, ...I love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted August 31, 2003 Report Share Posted August 31, 2003 Floyd Rose Locking Nuts Stamp on Bottom R2 is generally used for a close or tight radius neck such as a 8" or 10" radius R4 is generally used for a wider radius neck such as a 12" on up Brian, Just to be clear, the R4 nut still has a 10" radius where the strings rest. I don't know if using it on a 12" radius fretboard gains much in terms of helping get the action lower, maybe it does. This was one of the biggest stumbling blocks I had when starting out. The Schaller bridges (Floyd style) seem to all come with a 14" radius at the bridge. The Original Floyds are a 10" bridge. Stewmac and Warmoth sell them both with a 10" radius nut - it doesn't matter whether it is R2 or R4 - they are both 10" radius nuts. I think there is a flatter radius nut (something like R7?) but I don't know if they are available to the general public. For begginers: If you want the lowest possible action with a locking nut, you will need to pay attention to the nut vs. fretboard vs. bridge radius. I found out the hard way. Bridge shims are available to help deal with the bridge radius. There is no way I know of to change the locking nut radius (at least without it looking like a hack). Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCord Posted September 1, 2003 Report Share Posted September 1, 2003 Floyd Rose Locking Nuts Stamp on Bottom R2 is generally used for a close or tight radius neck such as a 8" or 10" radius R4 is generally used for a wider radius neck such as a 12" on up No, No, NO. The stamps on the bottom correspond to the WIDTH of the nut. ~d~ At least, that's what I was taught. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted September 1, 2003 Report Share Posted September 1, 2003 I got my info from the AllParts Rep, guess it's time to go back and call a few others to make sure Cause both the R2 and R4 were available in 1-5/8" width Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted September 1, 2003 Report Share Posted September 1, 2003 The numbering scheme is pretty crazy. There are at least two R numbers that are used with a 1 11/16 width neck. The first (R3?) is for use with binding, I think because the string span is closer to that of the 1 5/8" width. The R4 is also for a 1 11/16 wide neck (at the nut) but has a slightly wider string span. The higher R numbers get even weirder. Each person I have talked to about the string radius has told me that the locking nuts are 10". I think the only nuts with a flatter radius are the R7 or around there. I don't know if regular shleps like us can buy them though. They might only be for the privileged few mega-builders. It's really confusing but the bottom line is that you should plan on a 10" radius (nut end) when using a locking nut. If you are using a Schaller Floyd - 14" radius at the bridge end. Original Floyd - 10" radius at bridge end. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted March 29, 2004 Report Share Posted March 29, 2004 The Jimmy Page Les Paul wiring was stolen 100% from the late 1970's Schecter Super Rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weezerboy Posted March 29, 2004 Report Share Posted March 29, 2004 maybe this thread should be pinned, i read it ages ago and thought the same but was scared to bump it a lot of useful stuff in here dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted March 29, 2004 Report Share Posted March 29, 2004 I hear ya. I used the search to try for an answer for something I know had been answered many times, and bumped a couple threads. Pinning is a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weezerboy Posted March 29, 2004 Report Share Posted March 29, 2004 plus i know people like ansil are gonna be full of genius facts and figures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StratDudeDan Posted March 29, 2004 Report Share Posted March 29, 2004 [quote name='Kevan' date='Jan 13 2003, 01:15 AM'] [quote name='GEdwardJones' date='Nov 15 2002, 03:46 PM']Want a handy place to put all of your screws while working on a guitar? Two words: Altoids Can[/quote] Two more words: Muffin Tray. A tad bit more pricey than Altoids, but most have 12 'cups' for screws and such. They also come in handy when it comes to sequence. You can number them (Sharpie, nail polish, etc) so you know what screws to use when you put it all back together. (Source: many years working on motion picture gear; a standard item at many work benches) [/quote] two more words, shot glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biblical Posted March 29, 2004 Report Share Posted March 29, 2004 get a baby food jar fill it half with wd-40 and half with rubbing alcohol and shake. get a cloth dab it in and go over your strings, stops the acid from your fingers corroding thm and makes the last longer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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