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Iceman


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I'm either brave, stupid, or both.

One of the inlays was cut about 1/16" too deep. Considering the router got set once and all the rest were fine, your guess is as good as mine as to how. Then end result was that instead of sitting a hair proud, it was a hair recessed. Well THAT won't do.

So I took it to my jointer. I set it for 1/128"-1/64" or so and prayed that I wasn't about to fook the whole thing up. I was about to be either brilliant or an idiot - no middle ground. :D

Thank God it worked. It took 8 passes to get it there, but it all came out perfect. There's no way in he11 I'd try that with shell, but the plastic shaved off so thin it's almost transparent.

Sometimes, it's better to be lucky than good. :D

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I'm either brave, stupid, or both.

One of the inlays was cut about 1/16" too deep. Considering the router got set once and all the rest were fine, your guess is as good as mine as to how. Then end result was that instead of sitting a hair proud, it was a hair recessed. Well THAT won't do.

So I took it to my jointer. I set it for 1/128"-1/64" or so and prayed that I wasn't about to fook the whole thing up. I was about to be either brilliant or an idiot - no middle ground. :D

Thank God it worked. It took 8 passes to get it there, but it all came out perfect. There's no way in he11 I'd try that with shell, but the plastic shaved off so thin it's almost transparent.

Sometimes, it's better to be lucky than good. :D

would've been less risky to "pad out" the deep recess IMO........ but as long as you're golden , you're golden.

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I'm either brave, stupid, or both.

One of the inlays was cut about 1/16" too deep. Considering the router got set once and all the rest were fine, your guess is as good as mine as to how. Then end result was that instead of sitting a hair proud, it was a hair recessed. Well THAT won't do.

So I took it to my jointer. I set it for 1/128"-1/64" or so and prayed that I wasn't about to fook the whole thing up. I was about to be either brilliant or an idiot - no middle ground. :D

Thank God it worked. It took 8 passes to get it there, but it all came out perfect. There's no way in he11 I'd try that with shell, but the plastic shaved off so thin it's almost transparent.

Sometimes, it's better to be lucky than good. :D

It's nice when those moments that make your ass pucker work out huh ? Nice !

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the sealer wasn't sanded down even on the edges - small but easily apparent lumpies

lots of small tearout in the trebel horn I didn't see before

a couple of what I'll call "sander divots"

a couple of small dents/creases I didn't see

Nothing individually was huge, but it all added up to a body that wan't anywhere near being ready to be painted.

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lots of small tearout in the trebel horn I didn't see before

That's why I quit routing bodies with templates. I now just use a belt sander and only use my router for the neck pocket and pickup/control cavities.

+1

Hate routers....

I use my spindle sander a lot lately.

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lots of small tearout in the trebel horn I didn't see before

That's why I quit routing bodies with templates. I now just use a belt sander and only use my router for the neck pocket and pickup/control cavities.

Absolutely spot on. Ive only made 2 but learnt after the first, the belt sander gives me infinite control over a router.

Cheers

Manny

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I've used Duplicolor clear lacquer before and while it was certainly dry enough and hard enough to buff in 6 hours, it kept shrinking for 3 or 4 weeks like any nitro. Since you are painting and probably have a perfectly smooth pore free surface, you might very well get away with buffing the next day. I'd wait longer to be safe though if it were me.

If it is the acrylic lacquer, well the one time I used that clear, it was still shrinking after 6 MONTHS.

SR

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FWIW: I used Duplicolor paint and will be using Duplicolor lacquer. The can says it's ready for buffing after 6 hours. Can anyone verify this?

Never painted and buffed with in a week of each other with anything other than a 2 part catalyzed finish.

When I do the Neon colors I wait a week in between primer, color, and clear. I think you are asking for issues not showing patience.

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Love that yellow, John! I used Duplicolor on a refinish project (Electra XV3GR) in 2009. I sprayed several coats of gray base, a coat of metallic glitter, followed by many coats of clear. I left a day or more between coats, plus a 3-week gap before the final few clear-coats. Even then, it was so soft that it imprinted when I left it lying on a cotton t-shirt for an hour. Months later, paint chipped-off down to the shellac sealer in a few places, and I can still leave a mark if I press with my fingernail. I must have spent >$120 for those spray cans. I love their wild metallics and glitter effects but I won't use Duplicolor for clear-coating again. Now that I have an HVLP set-up, I've started using Target EM6k instead.

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