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Posted
Great tip in the tracing pencil as well!

Dave

ya it is, i picked that up off of the MSC (moser custom shop) forum when people were talking about copying body profiles or something, that's where rodney is from (guy with the cool fly swatter guitar in his avatar), they got a nice little community over there too, a little smaller but a little more personal and homey,

anyways thought everyone could benifit from knowing it , i know i'll be using that pencil alot from now on :D

Posted
I usually go in ¼” steps when dealing with some of the more dense hardwoods, and sometimes 3/8” or ½” increments for softer woods like basswood, poplar & alder

I have a 3 1/2 HP router, and I always go 1/8" in my passes. I've shattered a router bit routing a PU cavity in an Ash Tele body going too deep.

Posted

You can also make router templates that use a brass collar as a guide. You make your templates 1/8" larger, and use any regular straight bit, not the flush trim or pattern kind, to route the cavities. This is what I do.

Posted

Well it's recommended and emphsized twice if you keep reading,

i also said " just use some common sense, and lots of scrap wood! "

but if you think i should, i can ammend it to read "1/8" to 1/4" passes?? no one really mentioned it when i was writting it and gettting info for the tutorial.

Posted
You can also make router templates that use a brass collar as a guide. You make your templates 1/8" larger, and use any regular straight bit, not the flush trim or pattern kind, to route the cavities. This is what I do.

:D

page 3 dude, half way down B)

Posted
but if you think i should, i can ammend it to read "1/8" to 1/4" passes??

No need to do that, we all have our own methods of building guitars. :D

Posted
You can also make router templates that use a brass collar as a guide.  You make your templates 1/8" larger, and use any regular straight bit, not the flush trim or pattern kind, to route the cavities.  This is what I do.

:D

page 3 dude, half way down B)

Whoops. I kinda just skimmed through it because I have to go to work right now. BY! :D

Posted
but if you think i should, i can ammend it to read "1/8" to 1/4" passes??

No need to do that, we all have our own methods of building guitars. :D

well honestly, was that the only time broke a bit? do you always rout at 1/8" steps ? or just for ash ? i mean it's no trouble to put that in there if you think it should be there B) the tutorial is for everyone, and to make things as safe as possible

Posted
well honestly, was that the only time broke a bit? do you always rout at 1/8" steps ? or just for ash ? i mean it's no trouble to put that in there if you think it should be there :D the tutorial is for everyone, and to make things as safe as possible

That was the only time I shattered a router bit, it was NASTY too! I was using one of those brass collar guides on the base, and when the bit shattered it blew out the side of the collar, and I was also hit in the stomach by something, must have been a piece of wood though, because it didn't go into me like a sharp chunk on carbide would have.

It was back in highschool and the shop teacher said I had taken too deep a pass, not sure how deep it was, anyway I asked and he said something like, "take only 1/8" at a time", or something to that effect, and it stuck in my heasd, so I mostly do 1/8", sometimes 3/16", but when I start to take deeper passes the router also moves alot slower through the material, and more woods chips are created that I have to stop and vacuum out.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
I usually go in ¼” steps when dealing with some of the more dense hardwoods, and sometimes 3/8” or ½” increments for softer woods like basswood, poplar & alder

I have a 3 1/2 HP router, and I always go 1/8" in my passes. I've shattered a router bit routing a PU cavity in an Ash Tele body going too deep.

I'm not trying to sound like a dick, but buy better router bits, if I couldn't take at least a 1/2" deep cut in maple I'd be looking for better bits. You'll actually get a better cut if you let the bit dig and work a bit. When I route a body profile, I'll do a 1 3/4" body blank in 2 passes, I've never had a bit break or slip and they'll last longer if you actually let them do the job they were intended on doing.

Just my 2 cents.

Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars
Posted

The only router bits I ever broke were a Harbor Freight one while doing a trussrod route, and the bastard tore my coat. So glat I was wearing it! That thing was likely to tear me open! The only other bit I broke was a Oldham Viper (as sold at Home Depot). DO NOT BUY THESE BITS!The vipers are priced to make you think they are quality, but when the massively greased shank slipps out, binds, and snaps the shank, it is far too late to say, "For another $2, I can get a freud." Just buy the freud to start with.

Also, harbor freight is great fo many tools. Dont buy you bits there. They only ome in sets. Think about it. 25 bits for the price of 1.5 good ones. Those things spin at a minimum of 20,000 RPMs.

Peace of mind is worth $18 - $22 a bit.

PS Great Tut Derek

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