westhemann Posted November 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 EMG 81 anniversary..I have a set from the Beast sitting around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davtheknave Posted November 28, 2010 Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 Very cool wes, those fret markers are badass. Can't wait to see it finished! One of these days I'll attempt my first neck build, until then "buy and set" is my way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 It's tough for me to get a good pic of a mock up,because I can't seem to hold the camera still...but this mock up is a bit more current,though I don't think I am going to use those pickups...I am wanting to use those new split coil EMGs I think... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted November 28, 2010 Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 I used norton 80 grit and it works pretty well This maybe an odd thing to comment on, but I think that Norton 3X sandpaper is the best on the market...fast cutting, slow clogging, long lasting...relatively speaking when compared with other paper backed sandpapers. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 I agree.That is why I mentioned it by name.regular sandpaper is crap. I was just researching scrapers.I would like to get away from sandpaper as much as I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted November 28, 2010 Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 There's no reason to buy a scraper set for more than $10-$15. I'd look into Grizzly's set. I mean seriously - there's nothing about them that would warrant an inflated price. They're just a piece of stamp-cut steel that's had an edge sharpened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 I just picked some up at Amazon,along with a burnishing tool...I already have an 8" mill file...the set I bought has straight edges and one for curved edges which looks perfect for carved tops... http://www.amazon.com/Crown-376-Cabinet-Sc...6437&sr=1-1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 Really I would just like to use more hand tools and less power tools.Seems like most mistakes I make are due to power tool misuse or failure...and sanding is a pain in the ass...so if I can use scrapers to minimize hand and power sanding,and get better with planes and such,maybe I can get better results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Alex Posted November 28, 2010 Report Share Posted November 28, 2010 May sound strange, but my go to tool for scraping bubinga is a cheap steel ruler, you flex it to match the contours of a carved top. I could never make "real" scrapers work, but between a ruler and a knife, I'm set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 Well,I was re-reading Bob Flexner's book and he goes on and on about scrapers being a real woodworkers tool,and how much of a better tool than sandpaper it is.he even said you can use them to level finishes between coats..so how could I resist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireFly Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 Well,I was re-reading Bob Flexner's book and he goes on and on about scrapers being a real woodworkers tool,and how much of a better tool than sandpaper it is.he even said you can use them to level finishes between coats..so how could I resist? Makes sense. I use them when i level off epoxy, or any large buildups/runs before I apply my final coat/2nd or 3rd to last coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 Fretting is so tough...I mean,getting frets in and level and making them play well is easy,but trying to get them into a well polished fretboard without scratching or marring anything is a chore and a half. Anyway..half the fretboard done...only one chipout and two scratches that I have repaired.the chipout happened when I was hammering the ends in just enough to hold them while I press the rest in..the end sprang up and loosened a chip with it..I immediately glued it back and I beveled all of the other slots to hopefully stop it from happening again. SS frets by the way.The last of the lot I got from Perry years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 So I know most people post each task as they get it done,but that ain't me..I post by what I do as I am doing it.So annoying as it may be... I had an idea as I was driving home from work today.I was thinking about what kind of control cavity cover I wanted...I am really tired of grain matching wood covers that don't really look that cool anyway,and I can't see just a black plastic or aluminum plate..then it struck me...a clear cover would be awesome... So a while back I bought a whole bunch of CD jewel cases...they are just sitting here..so I took an LP cover plate I had lying around and used that stewmac fret slot cleaner to etch around it onto the jewel case Cut it out on the bandsaw and sanded it ti final shape,then I took the micromesh up to 12000 and I have a satin cover that I will hit with a clear gloss varnish because it scratches way too easy as it is...so I will be able to peek in at my wiring any time I want. I traced around it And I routed out the cavity,which I don't have pics of yet.I also drilled for the controls..volume,3 way toggle,tone...I really am wanting to get some of those new EMG coil tappable pups,and if I do I will be drilling for a couple of mini toggles as well. Then I took my handle of my fret slot cleaning tool and rounded over the controls at the top..sorry about the fuzzy pic. That is all I have done today...I am waiting for a new slot cleaning tool to finish my fretting...tomorrow I am going to try to finish the body work..i have a small belly cut to add and a bunch of sanding... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Oh..I just noticed the coil tapped EMG is accessible via a push/pull pot..even cooler! http://www.gpdusa.com/X_Series-EMG-81TWX.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 And they have a wiring diagram for the 81 TW at bridge and 89 at neck... http://www.emginc.com/content/wiringdiagrams/EMG-81TW-89.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Actually i think this may be it.. http://www.emginc.com/content/wiringdiagra..._0230-0133A.pdf Anyway..the idea is to have the new more organic actives with all modes available...so this guitar may get everything from spanky clean to SRV to full bore metal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Better pic of the rounded controls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 So the control cavity..I am trying new things this build,so I did the Forstner bit thing and hogged out most of the wood,then cleaned it up with the router...but the recess for the control cavity was being difficult,so I stopped routing and got out the chisel... I traced out the outline with a small chisel and then I chiseled out the ledge and sanded it smooth with sandpaper wrapped around a small piece of brass...it looks like it does not fit too well,but I did that to leave room for the finish..I usually forget that and then have to make the plate smaller afterward. I really like the look of the clear cover..but the great thing is that if I decide I don't like it later,all I have to do is take it off and paint the back of the plate any color I want..and it will never scratch off since it is on the inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Finished the body and sanded to 120 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 I hate to say it since it's Wes'.... but I kinda like it :O lol Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 And I will have to add she's looking might fine. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Wes... what is the weight on that monster? It looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Thanks..I really appreciate that you guys like it.. RAD..the dry body weight right now is 3.8 pounds...I was hoping to get a super thin single cut that would still balance on a strap,and I think I have it..the neck is really light,too...1.4 pounds..the hardware weighs 2.1 pounds..totaling 6.9 pounds..I expect after finishing it may weigh up to 8 pounds,but possibly a bit less. I am creating an inlay for the headstock that I started years ago,and finally it seems to fit the guitar well enough..I am trying to create some horns out of that same material I used for the dots..and I am going to Etch in some crooked teeth into the faux ivory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Like this maybe?I mean obviously a little refining and recon stone horns instead of paper.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Ok so looking back through the build... I like the horns. Next time I would build the neck out of Bubinga as well. Not sure if it was an option but if you get the chance it would be interesting. I am starting to lean towards alternative neck woods these days as maple is "done to death". I just picked up some bubinga for neck lams and fretboard but haven't purchased a big enough piece for anything meaningful yet. Really that is a decent body weight. I have sapele that weighs that much... now I am starting to think about a full on bubinga guitar...gggrrrr (I don't think I will look at this thread anymore cause I don't have time for such silliness ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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