Rodney Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 Hey Ladies and Gents, I'm trying to finish a couple of prototypes without the advantage of having my booth and spray setup. I'm kinda spoiled that way, so I was hoping some of you guys with Rattle can experience can point me the right way. I'm looking for a spray (will consider a wipe on) that will be the following 1. dries quickly- I'm moving soon and can't let it hang for a month 2. sands well 3. doesn't yellow excessively 4. Is compatable with at leat one major line of colors. I considered the fast dry poly (minwax etc) but Im worried about a yellow cast. Also I don't know what spray color brands it works with. I would consider some acrylics, but from my experience they don't dry quickly. Thanks for any assistance in my ghetto style paint adventure and hope you guys all had a great holiday. It's good to be back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovekraft Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 You can get HOK auto colors and poly clear in rattle cans from Black Gold in Texas. Should dry quick enough - I've seen Harley tin finished from primer to polish in under a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 MinWax polyurethane did yellow. Leaves the vintage look. Iv'e read that a lot of MFg.'s make a poly that dries clear. It's a very tough finish that dries fast. Use an automotive type if you are going to decide on using poly. you could also try a Preval spray unit to spray with.Here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 House of Kolor or duplicolor. Sandable Primer, and in 2 days youre ready to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespresence Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 Deft Lacquer. Dries fast, dries hard and stays clear. Polishes beautifully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodney Posted January 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 Thanks guys, much appreciated. A couple of questions for you- Lovecraft- Thanks for the tip. I looked at they're home page and didn't see any rattle cans.I was hoping to find a dealer locater. I did see them on the site you directed me to though. Do you know any chains that carry them? I would like to try and find them locally. WWW- Other than yellowing, what was your drying and overall experience with the minwax? Litchfield- How was your duplicolor experience? Did you mean 2 days from primer, or dry time to sand finish? If so, that's quick! Blues presence- I thought about Deft (I always use they're sealer) but I've had problems with paint compatability. They are Nitro based (I'm still trying to figure out why they still sell it) and don't seem to work well with many colors i've tried. Any thoughts or experience? Thanks again guys. Sorry for all the follow up questions. Just trying to narrow it down and get these bodies done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 i just tried my first can of the stewmac nitro...and i have to say it is excellent!best i have ever tried.you wait 4 hours between coats,24 hours before level sanding,and 10 to 14 days before final buffing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 by the way if you use shellac as the sealer coat you use less laquer to get the depth you need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 My experience with MinWax was positive overall. I get a lot of people asking about the vintage look. It dries fairly fast and I was able to do multiple coats a day. BUT, it does not burn in well. When it was wet sanded the layers of poly showed. I had to put more coats on while the previous coat was still tacky. It polished to a very nice gloss and the finish is hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renablistic Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 ummm for a clear coat, you can buy a can of that stuff for 3.50 at your local hardware store, you'll need maybe 3 cans for a whole guitar. For colors reranch has a good selection, but they take about a week and a half to deliever... and as far as advice goes, don't hold the can too close, or too far... once you've hit an area, don't hit it again with a touch-up quick spray, because you get little bumps... it gets to a gooey viscosity pretty fast... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SprocketBoy Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 House of Kolor would be considered one of the best quality paints to use, also try Guitar ReRanch for his line of paints they work exellent. For my $0.02 Temperature is everything when dealing with spray can paints, if you live in an area with humidity most the year it becomes pretty difficult and your local weather man becomes your buddy lol but the instructions on the can will give ya the ideal conditions to paint in...........good luck!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespresence Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 Blues presence- I thought about Deft (I always use they're sealer) but I've had problems with paint compatability. They are Nitro based (I'm still trying to figure out why they still sell it) and don't seem to work well with many colors i've tried. Any thoughts or experience? The only incompatibility I've had with deft is when I sprayed it over enamel by mistake! I've used it as a clear coat on bare wood and over other spray can lacquers. I've also used it over metallic lacquers with no problems. I spray the 1st coat light, wait ten minutes then spray coat 2. Wait an hour or so then three, wait an hour, etc. until I have 6-10 coats on. I let it dry for 2-3 days then wet sand, rub out by hand then machine buff and polish. Here's the most recent job on a mahogany body. I hand rubbed this one only. No machine polish. There's a lot of good products and suggestions here. IMO you just have to pick one that works for you which may take some trial and error. When you find one you like stick with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 The duplicolr was a positive experience, and fast. Bear in mind tho, it was 100 degrees this summer. So I'd say about 4 darys after primer, and its done. the primer is fast stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted January 11, 2004 Report Share Posted January 11, 2004 Lacquer needs at least 1 or 2 weeks to cure real good, if you don't let it cure, you might not be able to take your pickguard, etc. off without it pulling up the paint with it.. and that will ruin your day, I can speak from experience. So be patient, and if you can't be patient get some Dupont automotive poly and it will be ready in a 24 hour period. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodney Posted January 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2004 Thanks again guys. Optimally I would be using auto poly, etc. But my booth etc are shut down for now and I ned to just complete a few projects quick and dirty in less than optimal circumstances. I'm trying to find a dealer locally for HOK and will look into the duplicolor. I may give the deft a shot since blues obviously did a good job with little time invested. I'm amazed you could rub it out so soon. I used the reranch stuff before which is pretty close in composition and it still scratched really easily after 2 weeks. At least I have the advantage of being in southern California and the days are warming up! Litchfield- you don't mean you went from primer to polish in 4 days do you?!!! that's nuts without being catalized! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdw3332 Posted January 13, 2004 Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 I've had good luck using Behlen's Master Lacquer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pour bleeding me Posted January 13, 2004 Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 i might be using the minwax poly and im concerned about the yellowing..i never knew it did this...but does this yellowing only happen on transparent finishes? because im paint my guitar black so will the yellowing still show or no? thanks im also thinking i might go with the automotive clear finish...which one is best? the dupont? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted January 13, 2004 Report Share Posted January 13, 2004 Dupont is good, not sure it's the best but I do know for a fact that PRS, and Fender both use Dupont ChromaPremier paint. It's not cheap but it dries extremely fast, and is tough as nails. I actually had a Dupont Magazine PDF file that I posted the link to a little over 3 months ago that had Paul Reed Smith in it praising the products. I'll try to find it and post the link if you are interested? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pour bleeding me Posted January 15, 2004 Report Share Posted January 15, 2004 yes i am...should i use that dupont paint too if i want to use the dupont clear? or is mixing brands alright?i just got done with the sanding sealer and am ready to paint so i need to know soon if possible..which paint should i get? and which clear coat? or is there even more than one? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEdwardJones Posted January 15, 2004 Report Share Posted January 15, 2004 i might be using the minwax poly and im concerned about the yellowing..i never knew it did this...but does this yellowing only happen on transparent finishes? because im paint my guitar black so will the yellowing still show or no? thanks It actually says on the can "may cause slight ambering of the finish. Test before using." Ok, not exactly that, but it does say "may cause slight ambering" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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