ScottR Posted July 3, 2012 Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 Nice wood score. How is that Peruvian Walnut to work? I've never had any in my hands. And.....what is that headstock angle--on these one piece non scarfed necks? I had to look hard to convince myself they were not perfectly flat. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 The peruvian walnut is awesome, strong and light. It is prone to cracking though so you have to watch for it... best to get a finish on it as soon as it is ready to be finished. The headstock angle is 14 degrees. On the neck for the Peruvian body it is only 9. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 On the neck for the Peruvian body it is only 9. That's the one I was having trouble seeing....camara angle was part of it I'm sure. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Side dots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Tuner holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 I have grown tired of trying to clamp necks to the bench for fretboard radius and leveling. Decided it was time for a better jig. I already do the pre radius on the big belt sander but getting it right requires hand sanding. The idea is to wedge the unprofiled neck in between some dowel rod pins while supporting the neck so it doesn't flex while sanding. Flex is your enemy. It is why you sand on a fretboard for 20 minutes and it still has a bow in it... if you eleminate the flex in your snading blocks and in your neck this whole process will only take 15 minutes. So I lost a good 2 hours building the jig but gained it all back using it that afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Since the back of the neck is supported I needed a block to go under the heal for support and to use as a clamp. Most of my necks from the cnc have the same profile but some of the others are different so I need different size heal supports. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Worked better than I had hoped. Using some MDF and the jointer (for the edges) I make some finishing sanding blocks. Wet/Dry 220, 320, 400 and some contact cement. I throw them away when they are done. Since they are more for polishing the MDF is usually straight enough although I do check it with my precision straight edge and square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Another tool I made for fretjobs... exacto blade ground with a slight hook and an edge. This does a fine job at cleaning impacted dust from the bottom of the slots. The blue tape is to stop the knurling from scratching the fretboard. I also have a pick set that has a nice hook on it I use time to time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Macassar Fretboard sanded and polished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 I am supposed to be working on finishing some stuff... but I tell you I love making new things more than finishing things. I have 2 very fine flatsawn pieces of Limba that I am going to use to test the new neck code on my CNC. So lets glue up the blanks. I spent another 15 minutes truing up my scarf jig for the Radial arm saw and the results were worth every minute. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 After a very few passes with sand paper attached to the cast iron router sled (machined flat surface) they are ready to be joined. Use the 1/16" stainless pins set wide. Then grab the cut-off from the scarf and use it as a clamping caul. Geometry is fun. Done back to fretting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Frets in. Might as well clean up the neck humbucker while I am here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted July 11, 2012 Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Glad to see I am not the only one putting side dots at the edge of the board.I never noticed before that you did it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted July 11, 2012 Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Looking great! I was looking af the fret cleaning pic trying to work out why theres so much gunk - then I realised its from the radiusing. I always use the air compresser at about 120psi to blow all that out. Takes a few seconds and saves a lot of effort! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Glad to see I am not the only one putting side dots at the edge of the board.I never noticed before that you did it that way. Makes it easy to line them up.... Also my boards are about 6mm so there isn't a lot of side material left once radiused. Looking great! I was looking af the fret cleaning pic trying to work out why theres so much gunk - then I realised its from the radiusing. I always use the air compresser at about 120psi to blow all that out. Takes a few seconds and saves a lot of effort! So some woods pack in so tight that even the air compressor can't get it out. Also I hate having all the dust blowing around in the shop. If you run the cleaner through once then hit it with the shop vac it gets most of the dust. Then a blast from the air compressor finishes it off without putting tons of nasty Bocote dust in the air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted July 11, 2012 Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Also my boards are about 6mm so there isn't a lot of side material left once radiused. Same reason I do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted July 11, 2012 Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 So some woods pack in so tight that even the air compressor can't get it out. Maybe you just need to get a bigger compressor! Mine is set standard at about 120psi which would cut the skin off your arm if you're not careful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 11, 2012 Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Glad to see I am not the only one putting side dots at the edge of the board.I never noticed before that you did it that way. This seems to be a trend at least for these current builds. I seem to remember it happening occasionally in the past, but not on every build.....is my memory correct RAD? Is this going to be a permanent design factor to your brand? One has to be super accurate when choosing to do this. The line next to the dots will show the slightest varience in placement that may have gone unnoticed otherwise. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 Glad to see I am not the only one putting side dots at the edge of the board.I never noticed before that you did it that way. This seems to be a trend at least for these current builds. I seem to remember it happening occasionally in the past, but not on every build.....is my memory correct RAD? Is this going to be a permanent design factor to your brand? One has to be super accurate when choosing to do this. The line next to the dots will show the slightest varience in placement that may have gone unnoticed otherwise. SR No telling.... until a machine starts doing them regularly there is a chance I change my mind. These things evolve year to year anyway. This is one of those things I still do by hand because I haven't wanted to build a jig. Plus you need a jig for all the scales and not sure my ocd would let me build only one for 25.5... You have to know your limitations. For now crooked dots are a feature of the brand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted July 11, 2012 Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 I always seem to have one drift off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2012 I always seem to have one drift off VVTF is it with that? There is always one that is just off. Used to always be the 24th or 12th fret were they were right next to each other. I had to fix that as that usually looked bad... Now all my customers that read these threads are looking at their guitars going "VVTF? Why did I never notice that?" Good thing most of them can't read Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Volutes in pictures... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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