Robbinst Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Hey everyone, I'm sure some of you are used to my Cigar box guitar build threads by now, but now I'm going back to full size guitars. Hope I can handle it This build is one of my custom designs and will have a swamp ash body and set maple neck. The scale will be 25.75 with 22 frets and a 12" fret board radius. My original plan was to do an all white guitar with a natural flamed maple (bound in white) fret board, white GFS (keepin costs down) power rails, and chrome hardware for a classy look. After I finish typing this I'm gonna go mess with some color dyes on some scrap ash and see if I like any of those instead(ill post them samples later tonight to get your opinions as well). Well... I guess that's it for now, here a few starter pics for ya. Template Wood... Thicknessing the body down about 1/4 inch Body rough cut with no sanding yet More to come soon! -Tyler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 I messed with the dyes tonight but nothing worth showing came out of it. I was going for a look similar to this: Except using either red or blue but the color didn't hold in the grain after sanding back the way I had hoped, so this builds gonna be a nice clean white. I did manage to get a few templates made tonight though so I guess I'll show those since its all I got Electronics cavity template Humbucker template and fitting the Power Rails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oblaty Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 I messed with the dyes tonight but nothing worth showing came out of it. I was going for a look similar to this: This finish is hard to get on ash, this guitar has a pine top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Time to update! Laminated maple neck being glued up I found this 1/4 inch maple at Lowes. It has a nice flame to it will be my fretboard. Can any one tell me how to pop the grain wile retaining a semi natural maple color? Im not sure what dye to use Threw in some bevels for comfort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 dug out the rear electronics cavity Tomorrow I begin work on the neck. I'll be in NY for the weekend so expect more progress pics around the beginning/middle of next week. Have a good weekend guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponticat Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 Interesting jig. Made from drawer slides? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattharris75 Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 Even though you might not be able to get that exact look from an ash body, I don't think there's any reason you have to go with a solid color. You can still do some pretty cool stuff to accentuate the grain, such as this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted February 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 Ponticat- yes its made from spare drawer slides that I came across in my grandpas shop. It is more trouble then its worth because I didn't take into account the saw dust clogging the bearings. Here's the thread showing how I made it if your interested http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=46234 Maybe you can think of a way to improve upon the design. mattharris75- My pups, binding and knobs all have white in them so that's why I'm going to stick with the clean white and chrome look that I originally had in my head for this build. The look of that guitar is really nice, I would definitely be interested in trying that on a future build. I was also shown a torched finish today. A guy used a blow torch to burn the softer grain and cause it to stand out, followed by a light brown stain. If your interested I'll send you the link to his build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ponticat Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 Ponticat- yes its made from spare drawer slides that I came across in my grandpas shop. It is more trouble then its worth because I didn't take into account the saw dust clogging the bearings. Here's the thread showing how I made it if your interested http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=46234 Maybe you can think of a way to improve upon the design. Thanks for posting the link. The first improvement that I thought of was adapting a shop vac attachment as a chip collector, but you've already considered the same. Would running the router with the grain, rather than across the grain, be worth a try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 Robbinst, To keep the maple "light" but still have accentuated grain you can merely throw some amber or light brown dye on the fret board, and sand back as you would with other colors. Hell, for the white/chrome motif you have, Id be tempted to use a blue dye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2012 Ponticat- I think the vacuum would help a lot. I'm not sure how direction of the cut would work, dust seems to fly everywhere(including in my eye even when I have goggles ). I'll have to mess with it more once I get a little less busy. bob123- Blue you say...? I did not even consider color but if done right it come look awesome! Were you thinking a light blue, dark blue, or a fade from light to dark? I may use this, any one else have any thoughts? Here's some progress: scarf joint jig gluing the joint fret board marked and cut truss channel and hotrod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juntunen Guitars Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 I messed with the dyes tonight but nothing worth showing came out of it. I was going for a look similar to this: Except using either red or blue but the color didn't hold in the grain after sanding back the way I had hoped, so this builds gonna be a nice clean white. As far as I know you can color the wood the base color then spray on a sealer and use colored grain filler putty to get that kind of look in ash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 I got the cavity cover done tonight! Staying away from screws for a nice clean look Magnets! 1/16" x 1/8" For some one who would be traveling a lot or playing gigs I would use stronger magnets but for the average at home player this if more then enough. Unless your literally throwing the guitar around the cover wont come off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2012 fret board stained and oiled Frets Head stock cut out and fret board glued Its starting to look like a guitar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menapia Posted March 17, 2012 Report Share Posted March 17, 2012 All right Rob! Great build so far bud, here's a finish I like to uses on ash might work for you or maybe not your cup of tea. Use a dark stain to get into the grain sand it down and hit it with your finish colour and then lacquer or oil no filler and no shellac. Marty... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 I got a decent amount done today! Tuner holes drilled and my "R" cut Carving the neck Tone/vol/ switch/ jack holes drilled Heres a tip for any newer builders: My template for the neck pocket was not as snug as I wanted it so rather then making a new one, a strip of tape on each side gave me just enough extra material for an ideal fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 Fits nicely And to test it This thing has a really good feel to it, its very comfortable in a playing position gluing up the neck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 Routed the excess tenon All glued up and a rough heel carve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazygtr Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 (edited) That heel looks comfy. Edited March 27, 2012 by crazygtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Next time I'd do a less-thick heel and leave more meat in the body under it. That looks like a pretty thin section. You can make a perfectly comfy heel without going that thin on the back of the guitar. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 I agree with you Chris, this was my first set neck and I wasn't to sure about specific measurements but I will definitely leave more in the pocket next time. Thanks for the tip! -Tyler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 I really hope that doesn't break out on you... That would really suck. Great work so far other than that, very neat and precise. That "R" inlay channel looks very tidy, curious how you cut that as inlay is an area I want to improve in my own builds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Demonx- I routed the "R" using a dremmel and the stewmac precision base which turns your dremmel into a mini router. I used a 1/16th bit to clear the bulkier parts and came in with a 1/32nd bit for smaller areas and tighter lines. Last I shaped the points and sharper corners with an exacto knife, be careful because its easy to slip and cut something you dont want to, whether it be the wood or your hand. As long as you can follow a line you can inlay, just take your time and start simple. -Tyler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Demonx- I routed the "R" using a dremmel and the stewmac precision base which turns your dremmel into a mini router. I used a 1/16th bit to clear the bulkier parts and came in with a 1/32nd bit for smaller areas and tighter lines. Last I shaped the points and sharper corners with an exacto knife, be careful because its easy to slip and cut something you dont want to, whether it be the wood or your hand. As long as you can follow a line you can inlay, just take your time and start simple. -Tyler That's ok, I was just curious what process you used as it looks nice and tidy. I have all the stew Mac base and bits, I use them sometimes and sometimes do it completely by hand. It depends on the job I'm doing at the time Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbinst Posted March 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Demonx- Your picture next to your post caught my eye(The really cool looking "S"). I was just curious as to how you did that? It looks really awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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