RestorationAD Posted May 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 How to fix tearout on a flamed fretboard without using CA and dust. Get a chisel. Chip a piece of flamed wood from a block. Spend an hour trying to line it up as best you can. Glue the piece in place with thick CA. Cut thin strands from the block and stuff them in any voids and refill with CA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Sanded and cleaned up. By the time this is radiused I doubt anyone will know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Fit the neck to the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 A look at the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Time for the headplate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Dude, you are letting your artistic genes breathe a bit. Nice. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Tx. So far I think this one is a little over the top... I hope it is not too much in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 I don't think it's over the top. You want over the top (tacky) google minarik. This is still quite reserved! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I am still shaping the customs headstocks by hand. Nothing better than having a freshly burnished scraper for cleaning up padauck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Note to self. Check the depth of the fretslots before final polish on the fretboard. After this I have to sand the whole thing again... on the next three necks I do this as soon as the radius is done. Use the big belt sander to rough the radius in then use the radius beam to finish it. Next I move to the Stew Mac sanding bar following the string path to level the board. Last I use 220, 320, 400 attached to long sanding blocks and finish up with polish pad to make it shine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Headstock gets sanded before putting the tuner recess in as it is easier to get scratches out now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 In the sun you can see the flame in the padauk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Next week frets and carves... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Are you getting tired of orange yet? SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuntinDoug Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Hey Brett, A couple questions...What angle are you using on your HS? Are you doing 2D milling on the CNC, then carving by hand? Do you need a 3D neck file? Lemme know.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Are you getting tired of orange yet? SR Yes. I almost went to the wood store and bought some Peruvian Walnut just to have a different color in my snot and on the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Hey Brett, A couple questions...What angle are you using on your HS? Are you doing 2D milling on the CNC, then carving by hand? Do you need a 3D neck file? Lemme know.... Headstocks are at 14 degrees (or 12... I think I moved back to 14... yes 14) All the CNC work is just 2.5 milling. On the big custom models I plan to always do the carving by hand... however on the Express models I want to start using the CNC to at least rough in the carves on the bodies and the necks. I just haven't had time to really start working on 3d modeling or expensive CAM software. Money is part of the issue... I am not splurging for new CAM and Controller software so I am using AutoCAD, CamBam and LinuxCNC (EMC2). You know being an old school linux guy this kinda makes me feel at home. I also am not familiar enough with my machine to change the controller software yet. I will gladly take any help you can give. Feel free to email me whatever... I know when we have spoken you have been very generous with your hard earned knowledge and I appreciate that. You and Mikro have helped a ton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuntinDoug Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I still carve all my tops by hand...Just too much fun to give up. On my necks, I do a full 3D with a voloute & all on the CNC, but I always do a final "finish" shaping to give it that hand carved feel. I use Rhino for all my modeling. It's very powerful. I have a 3D neck model that I use on 90% of my builds. It has a 13 degree HS with a voloute. I'd be willing to alter it to fit your specs...maybe trade for some top wood or something . I'd need to get specs & DXF's. PM me if you want to try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I still carve all my tops by hand...Just too much fun to give up. On my necks, I do a full 3D with a voloute & all on the CNC, but I always do a final "finish" shaping to give it that hand carved feel. I use Rhino for all my modeling. It's very powerful. I have a 3D neck model that I use on 90% of my builds. It has a 13 degree HS with a voloute. I'd be willing to alter it to fit your specs...maybe trade for some top wood or something . I'd need to get specs & DXF's. PM me if you want to try it. PM sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 A little out of order but here is the top for S907_7. Flamed Padauk. I am joining up a Limba body for this one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 And a Padauk neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Sneak peak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 Setting the bridge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 Well it all starts great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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